Designation: D4232 − 14
Standard Performance Specification for
Men’s and Women’s Dress and Vocational Career Apparel
Fabrics1
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4232; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the
1.1 This performance specification covers the performance Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-
requirements for woven fabrics for men’s and women’s dress Extension Tensile Testing Machine)
and vocational career apparel. D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics
by the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to Traverse Tensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)3
career apparel fabrics that do not patently fit the category of D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated
Career Dress Apparel. Performance specifications for such Apparel Fabrics
fabrics should be as agreed to between the purchaser and the D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of
seller. This performance specification is not applicable to Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
overcoat or topcoat uniform fabrics. D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel
1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and width 2.2 AATCC Test Methods:4
directions for those properties where fabric direction is perti- 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method
nent. 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the 16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the 23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro- 61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica- 116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use. Method
124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated
2. Referenced Documents Home Laundering
2.1 ASTM Standards:2 132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles 135 Dimensional Change of Fabrics after Home Laundering
D434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in 172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach in
Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn Home Laundering
2003)3 188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home
D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Laundering
Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
Evaluation Procedure 1 AATCC Gray Scale for Color
1
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee
Change
D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Evaluation Procedure 2 AATCC Gray Scale for Staining
Apparel. Evaluation Procedure 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transfer-
Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014. Published March 2014. Originally ence Scale
approved in 1983. Last previous edition approved in 2008 as D4232 – 01(2008).
DOI: 10.1520/D4232-14. A Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, [Link], or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@[Link]. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
4
the ASTM website. AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of Textile
3
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC
[Link]. 27709, [Link]
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D4232 − 14
2.3 Federal Standard:5 6. Sampling
16 CFR, Chapter II-Consumer Product Safety Commission 6.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing, take
Subchapter D-Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations at random the number of rolls as directed in and applicable
2.4 Military Standard:6 specification or other agreement between the purchaser and the
MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In- supplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.
spection by Attributes
6.2 Laboratory Sample—From each roll or piece in the lot
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this standard give only the sample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabric
permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test
methods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
and at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.
3. Terminology 7. Test Methods (See Note 1)
3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel, see Terminology 7.1 Breaking Force—Determine the dry breaking force as
D7022. directed in Test Method D5034, using a constant rate of
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard: traverse (CRT) tensile testing machine with the speed of the
career apparel, career dress apparel, career vocational apparel. pulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.
3.2 For definitions of all other textile terms see Terminology NOTE 2—If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)
testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be as agreed
D123. between the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overall
3.3 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing, correlation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and the
refer to specific AATCC test methods, or the Glossary of CRE machine, consequently, these two breaking load testers cannot be
used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machine will
AATCC Standard Terminology, or both. prevail.
4. Specification Requirements 7.2 Yarn Slippage—Determine the yarn slippage as directed
4.1 The properties of woven fabrics for men’s and women’s in Test Method D434.
career apparel shall conform to the specification requirements NOTE 3—The precision of Test Method D434 is being established, and
in Table 1. it may not be suitable for fabrics with a low number of ends and picks per
inch.
5. Significance and Use 7.3 Tearing Strength—Determine the tearing strength as
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the directed in Test Method D2262.
supplier, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet NOTE 4—If preferred, the use of either Test Methods D1424 or D2261
all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this performance is permitted with existing requirements as given in this performance
specification. specification. There may be no overall correlation between the results
obtained with the tongue tear machines and the Elmendorf machine.
5.2 It is recognized that where more critical requirements Consequently, these tear testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of
call for higher performance levels, for purposes of fashion or controversy, Test Method D2262 shall prevail.
aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these 7.4 Dimensional Change:
fabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all 7.4.1 Pressing and Finishing During Garment
of the requirements in Table 1. One or more of the require- Manufacturing—Mark specimen(s) as directed in 4.4 of
ments may be modifed by mutual agreement between the AATCC Test Method 135. Press and finish specimen(s) as
purchaser and the supplier. agreed to by the purchaser and the supplier with respect to
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall time, cycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, and mechanical
specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D4232 pressure of the presshead. Measure the specimen(s) and calcu-
except for the following characteristic(s).” late the dimensional change as directed in Sections 6 and 7 of
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached AATCC Test Method 135.
between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of [Link] If no agreement has been made between the pur-
controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to chaser and the supplier, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bed
be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer steam press according to the cycle in [Link] through [Link]
demands dictate varying performance parameters for any of Test Methods D2724.
particular style of fabric. 7.4.2 Laundering—Determine the maximum dimensional
5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties and change after 5 launderings as directed in the applicable
test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the procedure in AATCC Test Method 135 or as agreed to by buyer
specified test methods. and supplier.
[Link] The wash conditions and drying procedures shall be
as specified by the supplier.
5
Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,
Washington, DC 20402. NOTE 5—Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable except
6
Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 where all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. For
Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS. example, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,
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D4232 − 14
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
NOTE 1—Grade in colorfastness and durable press requirements are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change, color transfer, or
durable press rating, and to 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or durable press rating.
Career Dress Apparel Career Vocational Apparel
Characteristics Section
Fabric Requirements Fabric Requirements
Breaking strength (load) (CRT):
Category I 267 N (60 lbf), min 312 N (70 lbf), min 7.1
Category II 178 N (40 lbf), min 222 N (50 lbf), min
Category III 156 N (35 lbf), min 178 N (40 lbf), min
Yarn slippage, 6-mm, (1⁄4-in.) separation:
Category I 111 N (25 lbf), min 111 N (25 lbf), min 7.2
Category II 89 N (20 lbf), min 89 N (20 lbf), min
Category III 67 N (15 lbf), min 67 N (15 lbf), min
Tongue tear strength:
Category I 20 N (4.5 lbf), min 27 N (6.0 lbf), min 7.3
Category II 16 N (3.5 lbf), min 18 N (4.0 lbf), min
Category III 11 N (2.5 lbf), min 11 N (2.5 lbf), min
Dimensional stability:
Pressing and finishing 2 % shrink, 0.5 % gain, max 2 % shrink, 0.5 % gain, max 7.4.1
After 5 washes 2.5 % max 2.5 % max 7.4.2
After 3 drycleanings 2.5 % max 2.5 % max 7.4.3
Fabric Smoothness Appearance (see 7.5.1):
Category I SA, 3.5 min SA, 3.0 min 7.5
Category II SA, 3.5 min SA, 3.0 min
Category III SA, 3.0 min SA, 3.0 min
Flammability pass pass 7.6
Colorfastness to:
Laundering:D
Shade change Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minA 7.7.1
Staining Grade 3, minB Grade 3, minB
Drycleaning
Shade change Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minA 7.7.2
Crocking:D
Dry Grade 4, minC Grade 4, minC 7.7.3
Wet Grade 3, minC Grade 3, minC
Burnt gas fumes—2 cycles
Shade change, original fabric Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minA 7.7.4
Shade change, after one laundering or one Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minA
drycleaning
Light (xenon-arc)
Outdoor (40 AATCC FU) Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minA 7.7.5
Indoor (20 AATCC FU) Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minA
Perspiration:D
Shade change Grade 4, minA Grade 4, minA 7.7.6
Staining Grade 3, minB Grade 3, minB
Ozone—2 cycles Grade 4A Grade 4A 7.7.7
Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4A , min Grade 4A , min 7.7.8
Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach Grade 4A , min Grade 4A , min 7.7.9
A
AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.
B
AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.
C
AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.
D
See Note 7.
or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent. Goods labeled “Dryclean- 7.5 Fabric Smoothness Appearance—Determine the fabric
able” are to be drycleaned only. appearance as directed in AATCC Test Method 124 after
NOTE 6—Specimens prepared for 7.4.1 may be used for 7.4.2 and 7.4.3
as desired. When this is done, the dimensional change due to laundering
laundering, using the conditions agreed to by the purchaser and
or drycleaning is calculated using Eq 1. The dimensional change to the supplier, or as specified in 7.4.2 or [Link] for washable
pressing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is not fabrics, or after drycleaning as specified in7.4.3 for dryclean-
additive to the dimensional change to laundering or drycleaning of the able fabrics (see Note 8).
fabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).
7.5.1 The fabric smoothness (SA) rating of such fabrics, and
Percent Dimensional Change 5 100 ~ D 1 2 D 2 ! /D 2 (1) the SA rating of drycleaned fabrics, shall have decreased no
where: more than 0.5 SA rating from that of the fabric before it is
laundered or drycleaned.
D 1 = measurement after laundering or drycleaning, and
D2 = measurement after pressing and finishing. 7.6 Flammability—The flammability requirements shall be
as agreed between the purchaser and the supplier, provided
7.4.3 Dimensional Change in Drycleaning— Determine the
they meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the Flammable
maximum dimensional change after three drycleanings as
Fabrics Act Regulations.
directed in 10.1.1 through 10.1.5 of Test Methods D2724, or as
agreed to by the purchaser and the supplier. 7.7 Colorfastness:
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D4232 − 14
7.7.1 Laundering—Determine the colorfastness to launder- NOTE 8—Washing conditions shall be the same as those noted in
ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC Test [Link]. Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.4.3.
Method 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by the 7.7.5 Light—Determine colorfastness to light as directed in
supplier (Note 7 and Note 8). AATCC Test Method 16.3 – Option 3.
7.7.6 Perspiration—Determine colorfastness to perspiration
NOTE 7—It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained by
standard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades that as directed in AATCC Test Method 15 (see Note 7).
contain a combination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may not 7.7.7 Colorfastness to Ozone—Determine colorfastness to
show the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is, ozone as directed in AATCC Test Method 109.
therefore, recommended that the staining results obtained by these tests 7.7.8 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach—
not be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.
Determine colorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test
7.7.2 Drycleaning—Determine the colorfastness to dry- Method 188. The test conditions shall be as specified by the
cleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 132. seller.
7.7.3 Crocking—Determine the colorfastness to crocking as 7.7.9 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach—
directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shades and AATCC Determine colorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test
Test Method 116, for prints, or as agreed to by the purchaser Method 172. The test conditions shall be as specified by the
and the supplier (see Note 7). seller.
7.7.4 Burnt Gas Fumes—Determine the colorfastness to
burnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one laundering 8. Keywords
or drycleaning, in accordance with AATCC Test Method 23. 8.1 career apparel; fabric; performance; specification
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