In the older models, they have 4 output wires,

corresponding to both fields as indicated in the following figure and if

reversing the connection of the windings reverses the direction of rotation.
In the new models, the motors have 3 output wires. The
The windings of the fields are connected internally. A wire goes
connected to the line and the others to the capacitor. The other pole of the line
goes to one of the ends of the capacitor. The only difference is that it
it will invert the rotation depending on which end you connect it to.
When performing the test of any engine, you must check the
force of the same exerting pressure on its axis. It can take a
cloth and press with the hand to see if it has enough strength.
If a motor has one of its windings shorted, it can operate
correctly, but not supplying the required power for your
good performance.

Most Frequent Failures

The washing machine lacks power or the agitator paddle stops.
some moments. The strap may be loose or stretched. The
most of the new models use a multi-ve belt made of material
plastic. Change it.
Without clothes it works normally, with clothes the palette doesn't move and the
motor turns with force. The cause is the wear or breakage of the
machine gears. If it is an old model, it can be disassembled.
and replace the damaged parts. If it is a sealed box, change it.
The washing machine stains clothes with grease. This is because it
has worn out the upper seal of the reciprocating machine allowing the
oil outlet and when mixed with water, a paste is formed
greasy. In old machines, it can be disassembled, cleaned,
Change the seal, apply grease of 90 until covering the mechanism.
and that solves the problem. If it is a sealed box
change it.
*Without clothes it works normally and with clothes it does not. Remove the strap and
Turn the pulley of the swing machine with your hand to see if it rotates.
correctly and it doesn't freeze. If so, the failure may be caused by the
exhaustion of the starting capacitor or in the worst case
You will need to change the motor due to a short in one of its
fields.
-Does not start and the cable is in good condition. Broken timer.
It works for very little time or the clock does not engage when activated. The
The timer gears have worn out. Replace it.
Loses oil from underneath and stains the floor. Wear of the seal
machine oscillation axis. If the problem is recent and not
warns play in the hub of this, it may be resolved
changing the seal. Otherwise, the machine needs to be replaced.
 New Models
There is a great variety of new models, but their operation is
very similar in all cases.
Basically, it is a regular washing machine without the spin option.
that an EV (electronic valve) has been added, a pressure switch for
control the water level, a MB (drain pump) and a timer
with some more contacts to handle all the components.
The timer may have a built-in switch or the ignition.
is done with a common toggle switch. Another very important detail
It is important that the timer can run the program mechanically.
through a clock-type cord or to have a micromotor
powered with 220 Volts.

A widely spread model is the Drean Family 046 S washing machine.

superior. It has a mechanical clock with an internal winding for
its operation, similar to the previous ones, but has been added a
mechanism that acts as an inverter switch and its purpose is
turn the engine to both sides. As soon as the knob is turned
clock, the motor starts to turn in both directions until it stops the
watch
Here we can see the electric circuit that is very simple and the clock.
what commands the engine.

The drainage is carried out manually.

There are models that are physically identical, but an addition has been made to them.
solenoid valve (EV), a pressure switch (pres) and a drainage pump.
When adding more elements, a Timer with more is also required.
switches to control them. Its turning mechanism is no longer with
a clock-type string like the previous ones, but it has been
an electric micromotor for this function.

At the moment of starting it, the timer closes the contacts that
they feed the solenoid valve through the pressure switch and it starts to
load water (Washing). When the pressure switch receives the pressure at which
it is regulated, this leaves its resting position to feed the motor
and start the washing.
If it is a turbine washer or also load type models
superior with basket (Drean Family type), the motor will rotate towards
both sides thanks to an internal mechanism of the timer, which reverses
the connection to the engine fields. It will continue washing for a few
minutes.
Then the contact that feeds the MB will be closed and the
drainage
When the water is finished draining, the pressure switch will return to position.
from rest and the timer will power the Electroválvula (EV) again
to begin the water loading intended for the Rinse.
 Various Issues in Semi-Automatic Washing Machines
ThisThe
will be repeated
washing machineseveral
does nottimes until the end, depending on the model.
turn on.
the timer.
Checkmodels
Other the plug,
thatcable, power switch,
use a stirring palette do or not
timer contacts.
require that the
Turn it on, you can feel the EV vibrating but it doesn't fill with water.
timer reverses the direction of the motor, as it always does in the same
This is For
meaning. dueexample:
to the obstruction of the
Codini Evolutions. water
This modelflow. Possibly
does not the filter
have centrifugation.
de la drains,
Lava, EV estéand tapado.
rinsesCompruebe
automatically. también
The timer la presión
is veryde red.
simple.
It lights up but does not fill with water. 220 V is measured at the contacts.
and only has two internal inverter keys. In the following photo
of see
we the this
[Link] and detail of the timer.
Burnt EV. Change.
It turns on, fills with water but does not stop and overflows.
As a first step, it is necessary to check that it is not obstructed.
pressure switch hose or the diaphragm where it is connected. (Usually
(covering with soap) If not, it is probably punctured.
diaphragm of the pressure switch. When in doubt, change it.

NOTE - This is a very important piece of information. The Pressure Switch goes
receiving pressure very slowly and if you have a small
puncture, this pressure escapes and never cuts. The first thing that
you blow on the pressure switch to check that its contacts
they are not stuck and hear the characteristic click. But from this
the pressure we send it all at once and it can lead us to make a mistake of
to believe that it is in perfect condition, as its contacts are working
good. Even at times the puncture is so small that to
Sometimes it works well and other times it doesn't, and this generates confusion. In front of
Any questions, change it.
Turns on, fills with water and stops.
Check the contacts and tabs of the washing motor and contacts of the
timer.
It turns on, fills with water, and stops. A buzzing sound is heard.
(buuuu)
Disconnect the motor belt and turn the washing machine to
confirm that it is not stuck. If it is OK, change the capacitor of
start the engine.

It works normally but does not drain.

Control the drainage pump (burned out or worn) or the hose of
blocked download or clogged filter.
Sometimes it drains and sometimes it doesn't.
This is due to the wear of the bushings of the MB. Change it.
The thermal fuse of the home installation is blown.
Check the plug and washing motor. Monitor for possible leaks.
water that wet the engine and cause it to break.
The drum (basket) is stuck.
Change bushings or bearings and the drum seal. Sometimes it happens that
introduce some garment between the basket and the tub, which must
check it, as it may be the cause of the problem.
No lava, does not move the palette.
Worn out reciprocating machine. Jammed. Change.
It loads water but when it starts to wash, it goes to one side.
it does well and the other does not turn and makes a noise. (buuuu) This
The noise is characteristic of the fact that the engine is missing a phase.
The timer contacts that reverse the motor's direction are
burned. Change timer.
------------------------------SECOND LEVEL---------------------------

Components of a washing machine

Solenoid valve (EV): Like its

the name indicates, it is a valve
that allows the passage of water
when voltage is applied to it
extremes. They come from one, two and
three ways. In Fig. 2-1 we see
its state of rest, work, and its
electric symbol. It is nothing more than
a simple coil that when being
powered with 220V or 110V
generates a magnetic field that

attracts the ferrous core

internal and thus uncovers the
opening that allows the
water inlet.
When at rest,
the spring pressure
block this hole.

Fig. 2-2 shows its

physical appearance.

Testing method: Set the tester to 20K (ohms). Measure at the

connection terminals and should mark approximately 3600
ohms (3.60K). If it shows nothing, the coil is cut. Also
you can plug it directly into 220V and notice if it vibrates or not,
indicating its status.
Pressure switch (PR) or (PRES): This device is responsible for controlling
the level of water used in each wash and rinse by a washing machine.
It works with air pressure that it receives through a thin
hose coming from the bottom of the washing machine. It has
internal contacts activated by a diaphragm that is responsible for
indicate whether the washing machine has water, how much, or if it is empty. All
They operate by air pressure, and the most commonly used are the 1 and 2.
levels, with 3 and 6 connection pins respectively. Here we go
to find various models and sizes but will not have any inconveniences
in verifying its proper functioning in most cases.
I say this because Eastern system models have a
pressure switch that does not have internal contacts, but a circuit
resonant, which emits a small signal that is sent to the
electronic microprocessor and it is not possible to measure it with a simple
multimeter or tester to confirm its proper functioning.
In Fig. 2-3 we see its operation and symbol.

In a resting state (without water), contacts 11 and 12 are closed

and through these the EV is fed. When the pressure reaches the
optimal level, the diaphragm causes contact 12 to disconnect and
As we see on the right side of the image, it connects to 13, indicating
that already has the appropriate water level to start washing. In the
In Fig. 2-4 we can see several models.
It should be clarified that in the two-level ones, they have working contacts.
in the same way with the only difference that they are activated with more
pressure that the first and his contacts would be 21/22 rest, 21/23
with pressure (second level).
Testing method: Place a small hose and measure the contacts
11 and 12 with the tester in buzzer mode, it should beep and show continuity.
When blowing, you should hear the click that connects terminals 11 and
13, so it will stop sounding. Then move the tip of the tester from
12 to 13 and the buzzer must sound again. If you do not have a tester
with the cicada, this will show 0 ohms (continuity).

Door Closure or Door Stop

This device is very simple. The simplest one is a switch that
closes the circuit when the door is closed and is used in the
older models Fig. 2-5
The newest ones offer greater security, especially when there is
children lurking, as it prevents them from opening the door of
the washing machine when it is running. Its shape may vary, but its
Electrical operation is the same in all cases.
It has a circular resistance that when voltage is applied to it,
It heats up by forcing the action of a bimetal to close another contact.
and thus feed the rest of the team. At this moment the door remains
mechanically locked so that it cannot be opened until the
program ends, if the power goes out or is interrupted in any way
deliberate.
Testing Line input These
method: will bedevices
applieduseto terminals 1 and 2.
a high resistance
220 Vvalue
and the
fromresistance
250K to will begin
10 Mg, so to
theheat theconvenient
most bimetal. When
thing is: With the
I reached the twist temperature, it will lock the door using
Test with the buzzer measuring terminals 1 and 3. It should not a show anything.
internal mechanism
Identify and1will
terminals andconnect terminal
2 and connect 1 with
them 3 to supply
to 220V. Wait apower
few
the rest of the circuit and allow its operation. In Fig. 2-6
minutes and then disconnect it and measure terminals 1 and 3 again.
we see their state
It must of rest
continue. and work.
(cicada). AfterInabout
Fig. 2-7 some models
3 minutes, it
commercials.
It will cool the bimetal and return to the resting position.
Fig. 2-6
Indicated in the circuits as MB (pump motor), it is the
responsible for emptying the washing machine drum each time the timer indicates it
indicate. It consists of a small engine that drives a turbine that
extract the water. Its physical form changes according to the model. It can
change its intake and exhaust ports, if it has a built-in filter or
No, but its operation is the same in all cases and it is not
problem to verify its operation. In Fig. 2-8 we see some
models and their symbol to identify it in the circuit.

Drain Pump (MB)

The most used at the moment is the so-called asynchronous and its
the advantages are the following: it is cheaper, it can be (in most cases)
change only the engine using the same nozzle and reduce costs
even more the cost of the repair. The other advantage is that when
to disintegrate due to the wear of its axis or bushing, does not allow the
water loss outside of it, thus preventing the part from getting wet
lower part of the cabinet and cause its deterioration through rust.
These are attached to the main body by means of three screws or
with a fitting and turning to the right. In both cases, do not forget
put the urine that prevents water from leaking through the joint. Take a look at
disassemble it, the position of the engine.

Testing method:
In this type Measure with
of mechanism andthe testersimilar,
others in 200 ohms. It should
you should indicate
check the
approximately
regulation. You170 ohms.
should beThis will the
turning onlytimer
indicate
knobthat
andyou seeare notthe diffuser
that
the engine
send cut off,
the water butcorresponding
to the the pump maytank. not work due to wear of
the
Thebushings or its axis.
power company hasFor a better
a peak test, connect
for each it to 220
deposit where V, connect the
they
turn
waterit inlet
on and off coming
hoses repeatedly.
from If at
theany moment
solenoid you
valves.
It will likelytohave
According wear onvalve
the solenoid the bushings
activatedorbythethe
shaft itself.
programmer, the water
which will indicate
it will flow its poortocondition.
to the deposit which it is connected. Fig. 2-10

Soap dish
The soap dish is nothing more than a container for soap, bleach and
fabric softener. Through this, water enters carrying
I get one of the aforementioned products, depending on the time.
of the program. The choice of which reservoir the water is directed towards
it can be mechanical or electrical: the mechanical one does it through a
diffuser that is activated by a wire rod connected to a
toothed wheel placed on the programmer's shaft. Fig. 2-9
 Thermoactuator:
This device, as its name indicates, operates through thermal means. Its
the function consists of releasing the mechanism that allows for spinning.
In Fig. 2-11 we see its physical appearance. In A at rest state and
in B in working condition. Its action is not instantaneous. When it is
apply tension, it begins to heat up and expand its axis. When it is
Release the tension, slowly return to its resting state.

Test Method: Connect it to 220V and the pin should come out or
turn slowly as shown in Figures A and B.

Fixed and Adjustable Thermostats

Thermostats (Tº) are the ones that control the water temperature.
They can be 30", 60" or 90" fixed, they can use the same casing.
to control two different temperature levels or to be adjustable
from 0º to 90º through a knob that indicates the temperature
chosen. These are electrically connected in series with the
heating resistor (R or RC) and when the water reaches the temperature
of cutting off the device in question, it opens its internal contacts to
interrupt the power to the resistor.
In Fig. 2-12, we see some models.
Testing method: Measure your terminals with the tester in buzzer mode and
it should sound (continuity - 0 ohms). Then heat it with a
lighter and you will hear a click, measure again and it will show open
(infinite). When it cools down it will return to normally closed.

Heating Resistance
This element is responsible for heating the water when that option is chosen.
option in the program. It is usually connected in series a
switch to disable its function and the thermostats shown above
that interrupt the circuit when it reaches the cut-off temperature.
It consists of a tube inside which there is a heating element.
properly insulated wire of approximately 25 ohms and in the
In the next figure we see its physical form.

Testing method: First set the tester to buzzer or the

lowest scale of ohms. It should measure + or - 25 ohms between its
terminals. This will indicate that it is not cut and therefore will heat.
As a second step, you should set the tester to the highest scale of
ohms and measure between its terminals and ground (surface of the pipe) for
make sure there are no leaks or worse, it's short-circuited
direct. The result of this measurement must be infinite. Also
you should conduct a visual inspection to verify that it is not punctured
or worn out from having brushed against the basket.

Washing and Centrifuging Motor

Here we are going to find a wide variety of engines and different types.
functioning. The most used are 5 and 6 contacts, some 7
contacts and those controlled by electronic chips.
These last ones allow controlling the spin speed of 0
rpm up to 1000 rpm (revolutions per minute). This is the most important topic.
difficult to explain to a reader who has no knowledge of
electricity, induction motors and electronics, and how I intend to
with this course, train a person who has no knowledge
Some, I am going to express myself in the simplest way possible.
These 5 and 6 contact motors include in the same housing the
corresponding windings for washing from both sides and
centrifuged.
In Fig. 2-13 we see its symbol and the arrangement of the terminals.
in a sheet. ML is the winding corresponding to the washing and MC to
centrifugation.

In the following chapters, we will explain in more depth how it works.

of the engines and how to test them.
Now coal engines are being used more and more.
controlled by control units or electronic boards. It's easy
try these engines individually. The drawback sometimes is
present with the control unit that works in conjunction with the
programmer and a false contact can hinder its good
operation.
In the following figure we can appreciate the distribution of the
motor contacts. In this case of an Electrolux EW washing machine.
1000 that uses a control unit for its handling. A
To the right, we have a close-up of the tachometer coil.

These motors are installed on the shaft, at the opposite end to the
a pulley a coil that functions as a tachometer, that is, it indicates
the control unit the amount of rpm at which it is rotating
motor. It is composed of a coil with a magnet rotor.
In the following figure, we show some of these control plates.
of engines.
Timer or Programmer
Here is the most complex part of a washing machine and for that, we will give it
the attention it deserves. I know and am friends with many technicians
that after years of dedicating themselves to the Washer Service, they still see
this device like a cuckoo. For your peace of mind, I already tell you that
Don't be alarmed. It's normal for any curious person who has seen a...
programmer with so many cables connected, the first impression is:
Hey, this is very complicated!
In Fig. 2-14 we see the physical appearance of some of these devices.

The first thing we must do is ask ourselves: What is a

programmer?

The answer is simpler than you might think. A programmer does not
it's more than a bunch of contacts opening and closing in a
specific moment. In the introduction of this book, I said that if I knew
how a lamp worked and had a certain skill for it
mechanics, was qualified to be a respected professional. Because
Well, a lamp turns on when one presses a switch.
switch or key.
Imagine that you turn on the kitchen light, then the dining room light,
then the one in the bedroom, etc. It is doing nothing but closing
contacts in an electrical system for the current to reach its
destination.
That's what a programmer does. They keep closing and opening.
contacts of the components you want to make work or not, in a
indicated moment. Just like you. When you decide to turn on or off
some artifact. The other fundamental question would be: And how does it do it?
Very simple. In most cases, it has a micromotor that
It works with 220V and rotates a crown through gears.
that has embossed the program that must be fulfilled. That
relieve would be the finger that presses a key. So that you understand it.
Well, observe Fig. 2-15

As the crown rotates due to the action of the micromotor

(always at the same speed and point by point), the engraved relief
On its surface, it makes the contact (2) move up or down.
To clarify it even further, see the figure on the right and imagine that L1 and
L2 are lamps. Both are connected to the negative pole of the line and
the positive pole is connected to terminal 2 (Moving contact). This
is making contact with terminal 1, achieving that L1 is
turn it on. Now imagine that the crown keeps spinning due to the action
from the micromotor until the contact cam 2 reaches the position of
the red arrow. That will cause the movable contact to shift downwards
2 and disconnect from contact 1 (L1 turns off) and connect to
contact 3 with which it feeds L2 lighting it up.
In summary, a programmer is nothing more than a bunch of
switches in the same box. All these contacts are
connected to fixed and numbered terminals for the connection of the
cables that will power all the components.
These switches can be single or double action as they are.
graph in Fig. 2-16.

Some models have contacts in tandem, this means

that work at the same time as they are connected by a material
insulator. Fig. 2-17

With this, we already have a good foundation of how it works.

programmer. While there are many types, models, and brands, and it changes
much of its physical appearance, the principle of operation is the same
and little by little we will see it later when we address the
theme of circuits.
In the following figure, we see a program crown like the one
use a Copreci programmer that we used in our example and take
engraved the program in its lower part in a circular manner.
As an example, the terminals 42, 44, and 46 have been numbered for
that he transfers it to the circuit and sees how the programmer does it to
connect the washing or spinning motor. Likewise
the other contacts work.

Here we can see a programmer without the contact cover, a

single switch and finally the function of reversing switch.
Functions of an Automatic Washing Machine

An Automatic Washing Machine must fulfill the following functions:

Washing
Rinse
Centrifuge
All of them, as we have seen, are commanded by the Timer or

Programmer.
Washing Program - AURORA MOD-5502
To achieve the three basic functions (Washing-Rinsing-
Centrifugation), many intermediate actions are required, that's why
We are going to detail a complete step-by-step washing program.
In Fig. 2-18 we see the electric circuit of the AURORA washing machine.
Mod-5502 of 10 programs, on which we will base our study and
what uses a mechanical programmer Copreci type NP162A, Crouzet
type 910/3824 or EATON 9177.02
These differ in their physical appearance, but their contacts fulfill the
same function regardless of the brand.
As you will see in this circuit, all the components are found that
we saw earlier. If necessary, review the symbols of each
component and locate them in the circuit shown above.
It is important to know that regardless of the programmer who
use the washing machine, program A or 1, will always be the longest and
it will correspond to the pre-wash or soaking in some cases and is used
for very dirty clothes. The timer usually has two positions of
Stop and always turn at the same speed. Program B or 2 is for
less dirty clothes and does not do the pre-wash part. Program C
or 3 makes a shorter wash. Then come the programs that
they apply the bleach, the fabric softener, and finally the spin cycle.
Most have a key that cancels the spin cycle so that
only eliminate this option, the rest of the program does not change in
nothing. This is to prevent wool garments from stretching or deforming.
due to the centrifugal action.
Once the clothes are placed inside, all that is left is to choose the
washing program. In this case, we will select A, which is
printed on the knob, always turning it clockwise
a clock, that is to the right. Never turn in the opposite direction.
no washing machine model, as this will cause the breakage of
programmer (crown).
The next step is to pull out the knob of the programmer that
also serves as a switch via terminals 41 and 43 and will provide
comienzo al programa de lavado.
In other washing machine models, the main power is activated
by means of a switch or toggle located at the front.
Step 1 - At that moment, the programmer will give the order to the
solenoid valve (SV) through the contacts of the pressure switch 11 and 12
feeding the EV that is in series with the pump of
drainage will begin and the water loading will start.
Attention: This model has a door closure that is a
single switch and is in series with the line input, which
With the door closed, it allows its operation directly.
In models that have a Door Lock, it will enable the circuit.
once the bimetal triggers its internal contacts.
Through a mechanical device that is inserted in the axis
from the programmer (pulley [Link]), the water jet will be directed
toward the first soap deposit (Prewash).
As it gets filled with water, the Pressure Switch (PR) starts to
receive pressure through a thin hose connected to a tube
plastic insert in the discharge hose of the tank. When the
water level reaches approximately half of the viewer
door, the pressure switch cuts off the power to the solenoid valve, it is
to say, disconnect contact 11 from 12 to connect to 13. See
Fig. 2-19 The current continues through contacts 16, 35, 17, and B) and so on
connect the circuit so that the washing motor starts to rotate
to both sides, one and another time. The program crown continues
spinning until the drainage pump is fed. This happens
when terminal 25 is connected to 16.

At this moment the pressure switch starts to lose pressure, the pump
remove all the water and the pressure switch remains in a resting position as at
principle.
The programmer is at point B and begins the process of
water load the same as in step 1, with the only difference that
this time, the pulley inserted in the programmer's shaft positions the
diffuser so that water enters through the soap dispenser for the
main wash.
After washing for a few minutes, the process begins.
drain again. The pressure switch remains at rest position
while the pump continues to draw water until reaching point C.
At point C, it will load water for the rinsing process. It should be clarified
that it will do so through the main washing soap dispenser, but
as it dragged the soap before, the water enters clean to
a good rinse. The previous process is repeated, washing,
download...
This sequence will repeat until the end of the program with the only
difference from the water being directed towards the tank of
Bleach and then to the Fabric Softener and finally make a
final long spin, then the program will be finished.
After draining the bleach water, it will do a centrifugation.
short so that the garments absorb more of the softener.
The times for each wash and rinse, as well as the
the number of them varies according to the number of programs and models of
each Timer, but their principle of operation is the same in all
the cases and the process too.
Just as it happens with vehicle engines. They are different
brand, shapes and sizes, but very similar and once that
understood how one works, will not have major problems
with others.
 Third Level
--------------------
Washing Machine
To tackle the study of the mechanical part of a washing machine
We will use figures for better understanding. We will provide examples.
of disassembly and assembly of different parts and we will highlight the details
most important to take into account.
As a first step, we will differentiate each piece one by one.
Cuba: It is the largest piece after the Cabinet, usually
made of plastic mostly and stainless steel. It's where
the water is contained, it serves as support for the LC engine, the system
of cushioning and also of the stones that are used for
balance the weight of the whole set.
Cover of Cuba: This cover is where the generally host the
bearings and the support frame of the drum. In most of the
cases located at the back of the washing machine. In other models
the drum is responsible for housing the spools and the guard and the lid
is located at the front, connected to the bellows. All are joined to the vat.
through a rubber gasket to prevent any water leakage
to the outside. They can be secured to the tank with a strap of
plate, with steel clips or with screws. In the case of using clips, if
they are very rusted, lose tension and may allow the
water leak.
Basket: It is the container where clothes are placed. Made of stainless steel.
mostly and full of holes like a grater. They have 3 or
4 agitators inside that shake the clothes to
a good wash. These can be fixed or removable.
Drum Support: It is the part that suffers the most wear. It can have
3 or 4 aluminum legs that are attached to the basket with rivets
stainless steel and its shaft is the one that crosses the lid of the tank to
Then, attach the drum pulley. It goes without saying that this pulley
is coupled to the motor LC pulley via a belt.
Bellows: They are entirely made of rubber. The purpose of this is to seal the
water loss with the door glass and the tub. Additionally, its
shape and material used in the construction allows to adapt to
the movements of the cube without major inconveniences.

Springs: The springs support all the weight of the machine along with
the water and the clothes that are placed.
Ferodos: The ferodos are fixed at the bottom of the cabinet at
a hardened iron support. They can be square or round and
they are made of a material similar to brake pads. They are a
fundamental part and together with the springs prevent swaying and
vibrations of the washing machine.
Stones: The stones, mostly made of concrete, are
necessary to equalize the weight of the LC engine and make everything
more stable and balanced set.

With this we conclude the section dedicated to the machine. Now

we will move on to the electrical system and the reading of the circuits.

Circuits
For a technician, it is essential to know how to read electrical circuits.
impulse diagram of a programmer and interpret the sheets of
mechanical disassembly, so we will start with the circuits
electric

What is an electrical circuit and what is it used for?

An electric circuit is a diagram that shows us all the
electrical connections, current flow, plugs and elements
they are commanded by means of electricity. It is very important
because it greatly speeds up the diagnosis and we can verify if any
connection is not good, especially when we encounter
elements disconnected by another person or technicians that have not
could carry out the repair and then arrives at our workshop with
missing parts and various disconnections or moved.
Next, we will show a simple circuit needed for
to turn on a lamp, and then continue with the more complex ones that
they are the ones that interest us.

In the previous figure, we see the black points indicating that they are
connected to the 220 V line. They are always used to emphasize a
connection or splicing of wires and differentiate it from their crossings,
etc. The lines are used to connect all the connection points or
the cables themselves.
As we can see, the lamp is connected to both poles of the line,
but at the top, it does so through the switch.
When the switch is open as in the figure, the lamp is
off and when it closes it turns on. Most of the readers
they will be familiar with this and I think no more will be necessary
explanation.
In a washing machine, the same thing happens, with the difference that
this circuit is multiplied and instead of lamps a one is used
solenoid valve (EV), a drainage pump (MB) a motor of
washing and spinning (LC), a resistor (R), etc. And the
Switches are all inside the Timer or Programmer, except for
external switches such as: ½ load button, isolator of
spin cycle, hot water button, etc.

First, we must know two things.

1-The crown where the program to be fulfilled is engraved (handles the
switches), it turns through the gears of the micromotor
incorporated in the programmer and we can also do it
manually turning the Timer knob. When we do it
we feel and hear the click at each point that we run
program. Most of these program crowns have 60
pulses or points. The times of these differ according to the type, brand
and model of programmer. In each of these points, the crown
you can connect one or several contacts, simple or investors. This
reflects in the impulse diagram, which shows graphically in
each position of the crown the action of each switch.

The boxes in black mean closed contact and the boxes in

open white contact. It also specifies which contact it refers to.
and in some cases indicates which element governs. (EV, Pump of
drainage, etc.)
This is more for informational purposes and for you to know that it is a
impulse diagram, but practically it could be said that almost not
is needed for the repair of washing machines. What will be most useful to you and
Sometimes essential, the electrical circuit will undoubtedly be.

2-In contrast, the contacts that manage the turnover investment of

motor LC, are governed by one of the internal gears of the
Timers in charge of rotating the main crown point by point.
Therefore, we do not have external access.
Since all timers work on the same principle,
we will explain how to manage each contact.
Contacts 41 and 43 of our example timer (162A) act
as a main switch and is activated by pulling the knob outward
of the timer. Fig. 3-1

In some washing machine models

the power switch is
find on the front panel, unrelated to
timer.

The program crown opens one of these contacts when it arrives at

end of the program. (STOP)

Here we exemplify how they act

the contacts. The 35 can do
contact with 7 or 17 (the 35
bridges 2 simple switches
the 46 works as an inverter with
the 42 or the 44 and the 40 with the 34 or
the 36. Fig. 3-2

As you will see later, contacts 35, 7, and 17 are in charge.

to allow the reversal of the washing motor's rotation and to cancel this
option for the spinning motor to rotate indefinitely in a
only sense.
If you look at the circuit in Fig. 2-18, you will see that contacts 42 and 34
they are connected to the centrifuge motor, and 44 and 36 to the washing one.
Pay close attention: when the washing motor is needed
function, contacts 46 and 40 must be connected to 44 and
 36 respectively, leaving contacts 42 and 34 free.
correspond to the spinning motor.
These contacts function as an inverter, that is, they connect
the washing motor or the spinning motor. Never both together. In
Some programmers are driven in tandem by a single cam.
In Fig. 3-3 we will explain this process in detail.
Along with this book, we have added a sheet with a circuit.
expanded so that I have it on hand and use it to understand
each step of this course. The figures that are used for
individualizing each process is for better understanding and you.
You must transfer it to the original circuit and understand it perfectly. If
this is not the case, I recommend reviewing the lesson with which
If you have any doubts. Remember that you can contact us with any questions.
via email and we will resolve the issue.
I will always be willing to resolve any of your inquiries.

Just as we explained earlier how a lamp turns on,

we will now see how the current reaches the motor and how it does to
make it spin to one side and the other.
First of all, I want to clarify that they do not appear in the original circuit.
the mobile contacts and in Fig. 3-3 we have drawn them in color
orange for your better understanding, but do not stop transferring your
I study the original circuit. In this way, it will have no
problem of reading and understanding the operation of any other
make and model.
As a first measure, let's clarify that R and S are the line input of
220 V and which is connected to the socket that will in turn draw the current
from a home take. This means that the positive (+) and the
Negative (-) can remain either R or S depending on the input.
of the electrical outlet.
To make understanding easier, let's assume that R is
Negative and Positive.
We start with S: Following the circuit we see that it is connected to
terminal 43 of the timer switch that when closed with 41
(on), the current flows to terminal 1 and 4 of the motor
In the original circuit you will see that from terminal 41 it also
feeds the MB (drain pump), the MT (timer motor) and the
fixed thermostat.
Following a circuit means following the lines and either closing or opening it.
imaginarily, depending on the case, certain contacts of the timer,
to reach a certain component.
We already have one of the ends of the motor with the Negative. Now
We only need the positive and the capacitor.
Let's now see how we take the positive to the other end of the
motor.
Entering through R, the current flows through the door switch
towards contact 11 of the pressure switch, which already with the water load,
It took off from 12 and is now making contact with 13.
In this way, it reaches contact 16 that activates the
micromotor of the timer (which is already powered with phase S) making
turn all the advance gears of the crown and to the 35 through
a cable bridge.
Here they start to intervene each pair of contacts from the programmer.
We already know how the positive pole reaches 35. This makes
contact with its pair 17 which in turn has an external bridge (cable)
with the B. The B contacts its pair 11 which also has a
external bridge to carry the current to terminal 46 which is
making contact with its pair 44 achieving that the current reaches the
motor and make it turn to one side.
The start capacitor is connected to terminals 46 and 40.
motor, necessary for its initial thrust and maintain the
necessary power.
For the engine to turn the other way, all that is needed is
that the current, instead of reaching contact 46, goes to 40, that is
the other end of the capacitor. How is this achieved? Highlighted in a
In the yellow box, we have contacts B, 11, and 99.
I previously mentioned that one of the timer's gears handled these.
contacts. Well, this particular gear is responsible for
switch the contacts between B-11 and B-99. This way, if you imagine the
operation of this inverter, its contacts change from B-11 to B-
99, you will see that the current will reach the contact 40 through a
external bridge and the motor rotation to the other side is achieved.
The program crown follows several points in the same way and the
internal gear turns the washing motor in both directions
for a few minutes.
When the main crown reaches the moment of the drainage and
centrifuged, what it will do is disconnect the contacts of the motor of
washing (44 and 36) connected to 46 and 40 which are in parallel with the
capacitor and connect them to the corresponding 42 and 34
centrifugal winding.
During the washing process, contact 35 is connected to 17.
to take the investment of the motor's torque caused by the
contacts B, 11 and 99.
So that the spinning motor does not meet the reverse rotation
From the washing motor, the following occurs: contact 35 disconnects.
from 17 to connect to 7. Thus, the line feed remains
directly to contact 42 through the bridge with 7 until finished
centrifuging, canceling the function of contacts B, 11 and 99 that from
in the same way, they continue to connect and disconnect without investing the
motor rotation, since its contacts are canceled after having
disconnected from contact 17. Fig. 3-4

The original circuit that is usually attached to the

the bottom part of the washing machine lid may cause you a doubt and
For this we will make the following clarification.
When the time comes for the pump to discharge, it does so through
from contact 13 of the pressure switch-16 of the timer and 25 connected to the MB.
When the pressure switch reaches the resting position, the MB and the motor
the centrifuged is fed through contacts 8 and 16 of the
timer. Contact 16 has 3 fixed bridges that connect it to 8 and 10
that do not appear on the circuit. We clarify this in Fig. 3-4
The only thing we have left to explain is contact 10 that
correspond to washing with hot water. At certain points
the program has this option recorded, but if it is not desired, it must
disconnected using the cold wash button. Now, if you
if you want to wash with hot water, the heating element must have
220V at its ends. Let's see how this happens.
We start with line input S that is connected to 43 and
continue along 41, from there it connects to the thermostat through a cable
fixed, located at the bottom of the lid of the tub for
remain below the water level. This thermostat as indicated by the
the circuit is N/C (normally closed), meaning that its contacts are
closed and in this way reaches an extreme of resistance the
input potential S.
Now we have to see how the potential R reaches the other end.
Following the wiring, we see that it connects to the door switch.
When the door closes, the contact of this switch also does.
then from there a connection goes to terminal 11 of the pressure switch and another to
contact 8 which connects with 10 (through the bridge placed in
the terminals 16) and with the cold wash button closed,
we reach the other end of the resistance. It is then when
start heating the water to the cut-off temperature of the
fixed thermostat. When this happens, the thermostat contacts
they open and disconnect from terminal 41 and stop heating.
The program crown, the bridges and contacts 16-10 and 8 are
designed in such a way that it allows heating the water only when the
Pressure switch receives pressure and enables contacts 11-13. If this does not
Otherwise, the resistor could heat up without water inside it, which
would also cause a bad smell, that it burns or causes some
another problem.
We will now see how a normal program is initiated. Review this carefully.
theme until you understand it well. It will help you in the future to understand and
interpret any other washing machine model and above all the
things, like tracking an open circuit.
Setting the timer knob to A, B or C and turning it on, pulling
Outward, the following will happen.
On one hand, S will make contact with terminal 43, which is closed with
the 41, where the timer motor and the pump are connected
drain. The other end of the pump is connected to contact 25
where one end of the solenoid valve is also connected
(EV).
On the other hand, R goes straight to the door switch that when being
closed is connected to the 11 of the pressure switch.
At this moment, the pressure switch is in a resting state, that is to say
that without water it does not receive pressure so they are closed
contacts 11 and 12 (NC- normally closed). And in this way, it reaches the
the other end of the solenoid valve.
Here a clarification is necessary. One end of the EV is connected to the 12
from the pressure switch and the current comes directly from the line as we explained
recently. In contrast, the other end does it through the pump of
drainage (both connected at terminal 25), this means that
they are in series. But the current that flows through the pump and the
solenoid valve, it is sufficient to allow the valve to open and
allow the water to pass and charge until the pressure disconnects
11 and 12 of the pressure switch to connect 11 and 13. When it remains in this.
Position, contact 13 of the PRES is connected to 16 of the timer.
where the other end of the micromotor is fed. This is how they are placed in
the timer gears move and the LC motor begins to rotate
intermittently towards both sides, as we have already seen. For
this reason often happens that sometimes it doesn't load water because it is cut off
I opened the pump motor.
What you need to understand is that the current circulating through the pump of
water and the solenoid valve are not enough to operate the MB
but, if to open the EV.
How is this possible?
The pump requires 220 V for its operation and a current
of the order of 100 mA, while the solenoid valve can
function perfectly with 220V or 110V, as it requires
less current to activate (amperes). If this does not occur, to
As the washing machine fills with water, the pump also
It would work and it would be removing the water. We can exemplify this with the
as follows: If you take two lamps and connect them
directly to an outlet, these will have 220 at their ends
And it will ignite at its maximum power. On the other hand, if you place 2
lamps in series, the voltage will be divided between the two, which means their
brightness will be halved, as each will consume 110 V.
This is what is called voltage drop.

If you can, do the following experiment and you will prove it.
In parallel connections, the loads (in this case the
lamps), are always connected at their ends to the
outlets, providing 220V in them.
While in the series connection, the voltage drop in the
the extremes of each load will depend on their quantity.
For example, in the previous figure, there are two charges and it would be 220/2 = 110V.
each one, if we added one more load (lamp), then
We would have 220/3 = 73.333V in each one and so on.

The washing process will last a few minutes and the timer's crown
it will continue to rotate until contact 16 is connected to 25,
entonces sí en este momento la MB recibirá los 220V en sus
extremes and it will be put into operation to start the download of
water
At this moment, the EV is waiting for the
operation of the MB the pressure switch returns to the condition of
rest to start a new water load.
With this, we have seen how all the contacts of the timer work and
How the current reaches each component of the washing machine.
Later, we will provide some fundamentals of electricity that will be of
great usefulness and with it you will know the difference between Tension or Voltage,
voltage and current or intensity drop. Along with that also
you will learn to use some basic formulas like Ohm's Law, among others
others.
What are the most common failures and what causes them?
Common failures are due to obstruction or blockage caused by
dirt, limescale, soap chips, foreign elements (rings of
bra, coins, papers, etc.
A washing machine deposits a very thin layer in each wash of
soap, scale, fabric softener, etc. on the walls of the tub, hoses,
small pump and drainage pump. The small pump is always found in
the bottom, sometimes connected to the discharge hose of the
cuba and others in the same cuba. In this one, the small hose is plugged in.
What carries the pressure to the pressure switch.
This little lung often gets clogged with elements before
mentioned and does not allow pressure to pass to the pressure switch, with
which does not stop the water load. If you disconnect the little hose from
pressure switch and blower, you will notice that very little air or none at all passes. You should
proceed to clean the system. This may cause the washing machine
level overflow or overflow.
Another very common failure is due to not starting the water loading.
This may be caused by the filter or filters installed in the hose.
load or the filter that comes built-in with the EV inside the threading.
It happens more often when the feeding comes from the tank
of the home (with dirt) that when fed with water
current. It will be enough to clean the filter and place it back again.
When a washing machine does not spin or drain water, the first thing that
we need to check the pump filter and the discharge hose. If
these are obstructed, no matter how much the pump works
perfectly, he will not be able to drain the water.

Frequent failures
Now we will see different failures, starting with the simplest ones to
to understand what has been learned so far.
The washing machine does not fill with water. - As a first step, you need to
check the charging hose for obstructions, especially the o
the filters that have on their connection thread to the tap or the EV.
We can review the filter that is inserted in the EV.
remove with tweezers to clean it. Finally, we must check if the
The EV or the MB are cut off, since working in series (in some
models), a cut-off pump does not allow the current to reach the
EV. If all this does not solve the problem, check the timer.
Do not drain. –Check the MB filter that may be dirty.
prevent the rotation of its turbine. Check if its winding is cut
with the multimeter or tester. If not, it is likely due to a
defective timer.
Water load starts the wash and then it overflows. This is due to
most cases to the pressure loss of the pressure switch, either
because of the punctured or dried hose or due to a puncture in the
diaphragm of the same pressure switch.
It keeps filling with water and overflows. The reason is similar to the item
previous. It could be the hose or the pressure switch broken. Another reason
what can cause the same problem is that it is blocked
lung or siphon where the hose of the pressure switch is connected. This
prevents the pressure switch from receiving air pressure and allows the cut-off.
Sometimes it overflows and sometimes it works normally. Everything is related to the
same problem and in this case it is due to a very small loss
that sometimes, due to the movement of the washing machine, it opens and sometimes it does not.
It is generally due to the dry pressure switch hose or a
very small puncture in the diaphragm of the pressure switch or its housing.
It doesn't bring the soap. The pressure may be low or they may be clogged.
the holes at the top of the soap dish or the filter of the
EV or charging hose. It could also be due to a malfunction.
operation of the rod that activates the pulley inserted in the axle of the
timer, responsible for moving the diffuser. Check the water pressure
of the housing.
It does not include the rinse. Check that the lid is not blocked.
soap dish, loading hose, filter, and especially the siphon (cap)
from the removable tray that is usually covered with the softener. If
the fabric softener is very thick, recommend diluting it with a little bit of
water.
It is taken in fabric softener ahead of time. See the rod of
distribution of the diffuser and its correct regulation.
Sometimes it does not drain. In this case, you should check the
operation of the MB, that when the axis has already worn out,
starts to work intermittently. It may also be due to
an obstruction in the discharge hose from the tank to the pump.
Water residue at the end of the washing process. The reasons
there can be several. Assuming that the pump works properly,
there's no choice but some obstruction. This could be: the filter of the
MB very dirty, the discharge hose of the tub or some element
strange inside the tub that blocks the hose outlet. In
In many cases, small items like napkins happen to be
media, bibs, etc. They pass through the bellows into the interior of
the bubble and then it lodges in the hose outlet
download to the MB. In these cases, it is advisable to remove the resistance in
the back part to remove the element that prevents drainage.
It starts spinning well and then stops making noise.
The reason is that it brushes against the edge of the basket against the bellows because it
moved forward. The cause is the zeguer that jams the axle in the
rear part (pulley side). Place the wave washer and a
new saying.
At the end of the program, the clothes are left wet. The causes
Usually there are 2. The EV doesn't close well and is leaking water.
allowing for a slow charge, or is it due to some problem in the
drainage system. I call it siphon effect. It's like when one
suck a hose to get gasoline. So when it ends up
remove the water and the pump stops, the hose remains submerged in
the drainage and sometimes the backflow caused by wastewater in the
same, causes the same effect. As if it were sucked inward.
NOTE - Almost all issues related to downloading
water is due to some blockage. Once I had a case
very curious and I think it is worth mentioning.
The problem the washing machine had was that sometimes it would take out
the water and sometimes not. I checked the hoses, I blew into them to
check its status and everything was fine. The pump was working
perfectly, so I dismissed its bad condition. I proved that
it will work correctly and that's it, all OK. But after 2 days the
the client calls me saying that the problem was still the same. I went and
The first thing I did was run the washing machine and blow hard.
from the discharge hose, checking that it was
uncovered and normal. Then I looked through the little holes of the
basket to see if I could find any garment covering the mouth of the
hose of the tub, although I had already asked the owner if
It was missing some stockings, napkin, etc., and he assured me that it wasn't.
Then I tried it several times and it worked well every time.
the cases, I left saying to keep trying because I do not
I found nothing abnormal. After a couple of days, he returned to
call me. I no longer knew what to do because everything indicated that from
some way was blocked. I started to take everything apart, I took out the
discharge hose and the discharge hose that goes from the
Cuba towards the bomb. This is made of corrugated rubber. I pressed it.
I shook it vigorously from all sides and looked inside.
making sure I was free. I did the same with the one of
drain, I even ran a wire through it. Previously
I had taken out the filter from the pump making sure it was
completely clean. I proceeded to take out the resistor to see
well the bottom of the tub and that way I made sure that it was indeed not
there was nothing inside that could be blocking the mouth of
download. Although the pump appeared to be in perfect
state and knowing that a few months ago I had it
changed, I had no choice but to change it. When I take it out,
I was greatly surprised. Upon looking at her, in the mouth where she...
connect the hose coming from the tank, there was a plug
plastic of the 3 in a row games that happened to be the same
diameter that the interior and because of this worked as a
hinge.
What was happening? Sometimes it remained perpendicular and allowed the
water passage and in others it was placed transversely covering
completely the entrance mouth of the MB, as if it were a
valve. In conclusion, the problem was solved. Sometimes it doesn't matter.
the years of experience one has, a failure like this can
it would take longer than expected. When I blew through the
discharge hose, the pressure made it open and to
try it, it will work correctly.
Wash only with hot water. The water switch.
it is hot in short (stuck) or the timer contacts are stuck.
Change as appropriate.
The program is not progressing. The timer motor is cut off or it is not getting power.
the current arrives.
Load the water and begin washing in one direction without stopping.
Short programmer.
Load water and lava in one direction. One of the contacts of
the timer that controls the washing motor is stuck.
Does not turn on. Defective door switch.
It doesn't start, but sometimes it does when pressing the door. Same as the previous case.
Does not turn on. Faulty timer. Check contacts 41 and 43.
It goes through the entire process but does not centrifuge. It does perform the discharges.
of water normally, may be due to a faulty timer or to
engine problems. As a first measure, you should test the engine.
with the engine tester and if it works well, verify the condition
of the timer or change it.
Apparently, it works normally but, when it comes time to wash,
the moment the engine stops turning to both sides, it
listen and notice a characteristic buzzing when the engine
a phase is missing or the capacitor is exhausted. Contacts 7, 17, and 35 of
stuck timer. When they get stuck, the winding remains energized.
centrifugation.
Water fills but washing does not start. Timer micromotor.
cut
The LC engine doesn't work and started to smell like it's burning. Surely the
the motor burned out. The most important thing is to find out the reason for it.
burn. It may burn just because, or it may have.
wet. In this case, the main cause is the little hose that goes from the
soap dish to the tub that serves as a vent. When punctured, it dries out.
or breaking, it begins to lose water that slides over the surface
from the tank and drips onto the engine. You might see a stain of
It will need to be changed so that the problem does not occur.
Repeat it. Stick it with contact cement.
*It makes an annoying noise when spinning. (Squeal) The likely cause
It could be the suspension springs that are lacking grease or the brake pads.
rotos. (damping)
It makes a lot of noise when spinning. It is usually due to a breakage.
of the drum spindles due to wear of the seal. To verify it,
Disconnect the belt and give it a vigorous spin. If they are in good
The state should not make noise. In that case, rotate the engine and see the
state of your bobbins.
The drum or basket moves and makes noise. Drum support
rotor or, failing that, the rollers. Sometimes both.
As the basket turns, a metallic rubbing sound can be heard. This
It may be due to some strange element between the tub and the basket.
They are usually fastening rings (brassieres), nails, buckles, etc.
You can try to take out the resistance to extract the element in
issue.

The washing machine is electrified. The most likely cause is that it is

shorted the LC motor. Disconnect it and check with a
tester or probe. This is because the home installation does not
it has a ground connection. In these cases, the ideal is to place a grounding rod.
for the washing machine's grounding. It is even more advisable when
there are kids.
It makes noise when it spins, even more. It may be that it is
worn out the anchor holes of the suspension springs, both in
the cabinet as in the support of the tub. It is recommended to fill in
with electric welding, ensure there are no rough edges and lubricate well.
It tries to turn off from the timer knob and it doesn't.
(AURORA). This fault is not very common. Disconnecting the cable of
line input that is connected to terminal 43 of the timer, this
it worked the same and filled with water. Looking at the circuit, it seems
impossible since I opened the line entry directly. The failure the
it caused the punctured resistance. With a leak.
 Whirlpool AWG 108 - It stops at point 5 and does not finish the
program. The contacts 6 and 6T are burnt and do not work
contact. This model uses the Timer 188B.
Drean Exc. 189- Occasionally, water is found in the part of
front of the washing machine. In this case, it was due to a puncture in the
door seal, which sometimes allowed water to pass through and other times
no.
Whirlpool AWG 748 - Sometimes it drains the water and sometimes it doesn't.
the outlet hose of the tank was blocked with support rings and
some lint from clothes.
Coventry mod-416- The washing machine works well and does everything.
program, but when centrifuging, sometimes it shakes and it
runs from place. The tension of the resistors, brake pads, was checked, which is not
the drum was played, etc. And everything was found in perfect condition.
This washer was already old and its base was a bit rusty but
it was whole, although the factory welding points were found,
cutting them, causing the cabinet to lose stability. It was proceeded to
place a reinforcement angle, drilled and secured with rivets
To slow down the action of rust, the interior was painted with
high quality rust converter.

Replacement of the bushings and retainer of the drum support.

In a front-loading washing machine like the one we use in our

For example, the problem that can complicate it the most is the change of
bearings and drum shaft retainer, since for a good
For the repair, you need to disassemble almost the entire washing machine.
We will start by removing screws a and b that hold the cover.
superior and the ones on the back cover.

The knob cover must be removed with great care.

programmer, which in most cases is broken and will be removed the
nut that holds it. This is removed by pressing and turning with
careful to the left and then, pulling outward. If not
You can do it, don't force the timer to the left because it can.
break. It is better to break the knob carefully (it is very cheap) and
then I studied and practiced, once I was outside, how to unlock it.
-The screws that hold the soap dispenser will be removed and
We will disconnect the hose at the bottom and the one for the vent.
on the right side (steamer). Remove the screw that holds the
programmer to the cabinet. Also, the hose needs to be disconnected.
from the solenoid valve. It is more practical to remove the screws than
Attach the EV to the cabinet and take everything out along with the soap holder.
Having already removed the rear cover of the cabinet, one must
disconnect the terminals of the wires that connect the resistor,
the thermostat, the engine and tank ground, and disconnect the plug
of the engine.
You can also remove the belt and the pulley from the shaft of the support.
drum.
Take note of all the connections to avoid making mistakes and for
As simple as it seems, do it until you gain experience.
necessary. You can mark with a permanent ink marker the
terminals or mark them with tape.

Tilt the washing machine backward and disconnect the hose from the
pump coming from the tank (in the pump).
Remove the bellows from the front of the door. To do this, open the door of the
washer and pry with a screwdriver on the ring of
safety that presses the edge of the bellows and remove it. Then press
the same towards the inside of the basket so it doesn't bother.
It is now ready to separate the machine from the cabinet. The ideal
is to place a steel cable (rope), rope or chain with some hooks.
and hook them into the holes you will see free in them
supports where the suspension springs are placed and lift
the machine slowly by means of a rig.
Place it on the floor face down and remove the screw.
that presses the suncho or lid ring. Then pull on the lid, if it is
it is necessary to lever with a screwdriver on the edge.
Generally, this comes out with the basket. Now you must separate the
Axis cover. First remove the seal and the wave washer.
of the same. It will surely be necessary to use a mass and a block of
wood to avoid damaging the thread, even better if you place the screw that
Hold the pulley but without the washer, as indicated in Fig. 3-5.
 Basket

A mass must be used to

this operation, but do it the
as delicately as possible
to avoid deforming the parts.

The most practical way to do it is: Being in a squat.

(crouched), support points A and B of the lid of the tank on the
thighs and hit with the mass on the wooden block and the axis until
take out the basket.
On the inside of the lid, you will see the seal that prevents the passage of water.
towards the bobbins and immediately behind, the bobbin, which in this
case can be 6203 or 6204. In Fig. 3-6, the way to
Remove the seal and both bearings from the cover of the cylinder. It must go
hitting slowly and trying to make it come out evenly for
prevent the shirt from crossing and deforming where the buttonhole is punched.
Next, you should clean the tube of the lid where they are housed.
the bobbin holders and the retainer to place the new ones and start with the
armed.
With what has been studied so far, you already know how to disassemble a
washing machine. Assembling it is not a difficult task but it requires more attention.
attention and until you gain the necessary experience, do it without
hurry to avoid making mistakes.
Once the lid of the tank is cleaned of rust and scale, we will proceed to
nail the back bobbin holder. To do this, place the lid upside down and
on a smooth surface to have a good hit. Use a washer
thick or a tool to nail hangers so that it does not go in
crossed.

Then we will place the bobbin on the inside, being careful not to hit.
on its edge and not in the center, since this, while difficult to
Break, it's not good. It can mark the balls and cause a break.
premature. Make sure it was topped off. Then you just need to place the
hold on being careful not to damage your lips. I recommend using a washer
flat thick so that it does not deform. If everything is fine, and the seal is
The one that must be carried should be flush with the edge of the lid.
Note - It is essential that the bobbins are inserted tightly.
pressure. If you notice slight wear, you can seal it with a
special glue for lace pillows. If the lace pillow goes in and out with
the hand, must change the cover. If not, the axis will have
movement and the spindles will rotate on themselves enlarging
even more the problem and it will break before time.

Next, we will check the good condition of the support shaft.

drum or basket. Here special care must be taken that it is not
spent on the part where they nail the bolilleros and especially,
that the surface where the team works is well smooth, free of
stings or scratches. If not, you should change the support, and if you do,
sand well with water sandpaper 600 or 800 the seat of the seal (the
New supports are sometimes not well polished.
If the support needs to be changed, you must remove the steel rivets.
stainless steel that holds it, with a drill bit or drill and a hole maker
the drill. To install the new one, use stainless steel screws of
3/8 or alternatively in bronze and secure them with glue for
rings.
With all this ready, we just need to put good grease.
quality on the inner edge of the seal and on the seal seat in the
support. Next, place the drum on the ground with the axle facing
above and carefully insert the lid without damaging the seal. Once
that has it centered, press abruptly so that it reaches its
position.
You will see the slot where the washer fits, protruding a
a few millimeters of the rear roller. If it is missing and does not reach, do it.
what is shown in Fig. 3-7

Get some washers as indicated in the previous figure.

and with the same screw that tightens the pulley, keep tightening until
reach the correct position. Place the wavy washer, the zeguer
And that's it. It is very important to place the wave washer and the zeguer.
in its correct position. This prevents the basket from moving towards
in front of and rubbing against the bellows.
Having finished assembling the lid and the support, only the rest remains
place it back inside the tank. Please take care to
clean the limescale from the tank and mainly from the gasket for a
perfect seal. Sometimes the tank tends to oxidize in the
bottom or on the edges. For this I recommend cleaning with a
steel brush thoroughly and then apply a thin layer of sealer
of water-resistant silicones, applying it with your finger. The gasket
provides a good seal and is sufficient to ensure that nothing remains
water loss if everything is fine, but if you wish and to avoid
take the risk of having to do the work twice, it can place a
silicone adhesive bead to secure the sealing, in
especially in the lower part up to the middle of the tank.
Now place the entire set following the fitting where it fits.
the heating element and the notch located at the top of
the cup, place the clamp and tighten it firmly.
The adjustment of the suncho or lid ring is a very important step. For
Hello, start doing it gradually, alternating with hits on the
edges of the suncho, preferably with a rubber hammer. I mean,
adjust a little and then hit the entire edge. You will see that the adjustment is
Smoothing. Repeat this operation until it is well adjusted.
Try the machine. Place it upright on the ground and do
spin the drum. It must be done freely and lightly
we could say and without any kind of friction or noise.
The time has come to set the machine up again. This process
it is the reverse of how he disassembled it. As he starts introducing the
machine, do it slowly and be careful not to catch
the timer wires. When I was almost in position, I hooked them up.
springs and then placed the suspension pads.
Put the soap dish, but before fixing it, connect the hose that
go to the cube. To do this, you can put your hand through the door before
put the bellows on and it will be more comfortable for you.
He just needs to fix the EV in its position, the timer, connect the
pressure switch to the hose of the diaphragm, the wires that you disconnected from
the back part and the little hose (steamer) to the tub. To this
Clean it well and seal its placement with contact cement.
Only the drum pulley, the belt, and the hose need to be installed.
download that goes to the pump.
Connect it and turn it on. Without placing the top cover or the
back. As it starts to load water, check that it does not
has leaks in the drum lid (suncho).
With this, we conclude the repair of a machine. All
the brands and models are similar in terms of front load.
we refer to. In some cases even, the back cover is what
large enough to take out the basket, saving a lot
time. There will be no issues with its repair if it has the
caution from:

The spindles must be inserted under pressure and remain firm.

2- Do not hit them in the center. Always on the edge.
3- Take care not to damage or deform the seal when placing it.
4- Make sure that the axle is in perfect condition. In particular
the seat of the seal. Polish it.
Always apply grease on the seal and the shaft track.
6- Clean the tank seal well and seal it with glue.
silicones.
7- It is always advisable to assemble the machine on the floor in
horizontal position.
-----------------------------FOURTH LEVEL-----------------------

First of all, it is recommended that you pay special attention

be careful when testing the washing machine or other appliances
connected to the 220V network. But still, if there are water losses
There is humidity in the work area. Please do everything possible.
the measurements and checks in cold, that is, without current.
For this you will need a multimeter.
Here you will learn to make different tools necessary for
a good service and to use the Multimeter, better known as
Tester.
We will start with a simple test lamp with clips.
isolated crocodile. Fig. 4-1

Necessary elements: 1 Miniature socket - 1 Lamp

Mignón - 2 Crocodile Clips - 1 m 1.5mm Cable - 2 Tips type
tester. You can also purchase them at hardware stores.
This simple test lamp is very practical when we want to
test voltages in solenoid valves, drainage pumps, resistance
heater, etc. We just need to connect it in parallel with the
element that we want to test and see if it receives voltage, which we
It will indicate with the lamp on. I also recommend doing
another with isolated tips like a tester as shown in the figure, it
It will be very useful for when I need to track a line phase.

Ex. 1-When one wants to test for the existence of voltage in an EV,
MB, etc., we just need to connect them to the same terminals of
connection and will turn on if there is voltage.

Ex. 2- Now let's assume that the washing machine is not working because
the door close is burned. We put a tip on the
input R of the line and with the other we check that the switch of
timer works. First, we place the tip on terminal 43
(turn on) and then at 41 (turn on) we press the knob to
turn it off and the lamp does it too. That is to say, the switch of the
timer is OK.
Now we place a tip in S (the other line input) and
we connect the other directly to contact 11 of the pressure switch and,
with the door closed, the lamp does not turn on. This indicates to us
that the door closure is broken or does not make good contact.
Series.
Sometimes devices arrive at the workshop with a short circuit, causing the
blowing of fuses or deactivation of circuit breakers
general. It is very useful for the repair of small
appliances.
To avoid these incidents, you can manufacture this series in which
plug in the devices to test. If there is a direct short, the
the lamp will light up at maximum power absorbing the consumption
as if it were directly connected to the line, indicating that the
the device is short-circuited.

Simple Motor Tester.

Of the tools that you are going to build, this is perhaps the most
important. With it you will be able to check the status of most of the
automatic washing machine motors.
In Fig. 4-2 we can see how voltage is applied to the motor.
so that it turns to one side and the other using a key
simple inverter or a tester type probe. In this case only
we can handle a winding. Washing or Spinning.

As a first step, you can make a simple device that will

also used to test washing machine motors
semiautomatic. It only needs a 1.5mm bipolar cable,
preferably insulated, a plug, 50cm of 1.5mm cable, a
16MF capacitor, 4 terminal female socket and one tip of
tester type test that you can make with an old pen and a
nail.
In Fig. 4-3 you can see the assembled device.

To test an LC engine you must do the following. Connect the

two cable bridges with terminals at each end of the
capacitor. These will connect to terminals 3 and 6 of the socket.
of the motor. You will now need to connect the terminal of the input cable.
to 1 of the engine card (bridge).
Note: If it is a 6-contact motor, please keep in mind that the
Terminal 4 is common to 3-6 of the washing winding and 1 to 2-
5 from the centrifugal winding. See motor data sheet.

Take the properly insulated test probe and having the

caution not to touch the nail or the tip that you have put on it and
Plug the plug into a socket. Support the tip at one end of the
capacitor and the motor should turn to one side. It will surely be
make some sparks. Don't worry, it's due to a loose connection.
Wait for the brake to stop and place the tip on the other end
of the capacitor and the motor will rotate in the opposite direction.
In the same way, you can test the centrifugal winding.
placing the capacitor bridges on terminals 2 and 5 of the
engine specifications (these are the two in the middle).
Don't forget to check if the motor power is correct or if
it raises the temperature, which will lead us to a dubious engine.
In the same way, a common engine can be tested
semi-automatic washing machine. When installing or changing one of these
motors, you must always connect it respecting the direction of rotation of
the indicated oscillating machine with an arrow on its base.
Having acquired this knowledge, we will proceed to the assembly of
a more practical LC engine tester.

LC 5 and 6 Contacts Motor Tester.

In Fig. 4-4 you will see the circuit of a tester with the same
principle of the previous one, but using a pair of inverse keys
doubles and a motor chip, there will be no need to connect and
disconnect cables, streamlining the task. You should choose or
to manufacture, if you wish, a box for the assembly of the
components, preferably plastic or another insulating material.
In the figure on the left, the inverter switches are in position.
of washing to one side.
 Highlighted in red is line entry b, which goes up to a
the end of the capacitor and passing through the inverter switch 1 reaches
up to terminal 3 of the washing motor.
Highlighted in blue is shown as terminal 6 of the engine
washing reaches the other end of the capacitor through the other
contact of investor 1.
In the figure on the right, the reversing key 1 is shown in its
another position and in this way it will see how now the line entry
b arrives at the capacitor and terminal 6 of the motor and terminal 3 of the
motor to the other end of the capacitor.

If you want to test the centrifuge, it will be enough to change the

position of the reverse switch 2, which in this way will disconnect the
terminals 3 and 6 of washing to connect 2 and 5 of centrifugation.
It is worth noting that while the engine will rotate in both directions, it has
more force towards the side where its turn is programmed.
This device can be purchased at a store dedicated to sales of
washing machine parts, as well as adapters for different
motor card formats and other models to test another type
of engines, but its cost may not be affordable for some
readers. Moreover, I believe that by making it yourself, you will acquire
necessary experience for better understanding of management
about the engines. I designed and built this device many years ago and
I have made some for my colleagues. You don't have to be a genius, if
not knowing how to interpret a circuit to achieve a useful tool
and practice. Nowadays, they can be bought in some stores of
electricity or sale of washing machine spare parts. If you use a plug of
motor like the one shown in the figure, will be able to test most of the
5 and 6 contact motors.
For its assembly, I recommend using reversible wrenches with a midpoint and
minimum 10 amps. The capacitor must be 16 MF
The motor rating label of a Candy washing machine (for example) has 5
contacts and the common to the washing and centrifuging windings are
find in the center of it, as shown in the following figure and
the card we use in our fitting room does not fit properly
direct.

For this and other engines, you can make cables of about 20 cm.
with palette and female terminals as indicated. In this way it
you can connect to the tester in Fig. 4-4:
In the event of encountering a different card, you may use the
same procedure. You just need to locate and separate with the
tester, the common one and the wash and spin windings.
I find it appropriate at this moment to make a comment. Hoping
I want to have understood well the functioning of an engine.
to clarify that on some occasions one of the contacts of the timer that
they connect the motor, it usually gets stuck and shorts out. This causes the
next failure: it works well to one side and produces to the other
a noise (buuuuu) and it does not rotate or the axis oscillates slightly.
To test a coal engine operated by a control panel,
You must first test it individually. You will need to make some bridges.
(a and b) on the switch so that the motor is in working position,
as shown in the following figure.

Just locate the

terminals of the fields and
Connect them to the 220V line.
It should operate at maximum
speed.
If the engine works
correctly the problem
it can be on the plate of
control, since this is the
in charge of managing the
speed by means of the
frequency variation.
Sanyo-Goldstar-Toshiba-etc Plate Tester

In the previous figure, we show a Sanyo Model ASW45Y1T plate.

This is a very useful and easy-to-use tool. In case of doubt about a
plate, can prevent having to take the whole washing machine to the workshop. It fits
clarify that not all plates are the same but, understanding their
the functioning will allow the tester to adapt to anyone. To do this
It has two auxiliary loads. With this device, it is
connecting loads (lamps) that simulate to the EV, MT (micro motor)
of torque), washing and spinning motor.
When you turn it on, it will light the lamp.
corresponding to EV indicating that water charging has begun,
Then the pressure switch must blow to simulate the water load.
and start the washing motor by turning on the lights
correspondingly alternately. Then the lamp will turn on.
from the MT and must release the pressure of the Pressure Switch.
The process will be repeated depending on the chosen program, but
when the spinning moment arrives, it will remain on
lamp until the program is finished.
If you come across a washing machine that has a drain pump, or a
aerator (bubbles), etc. can connect them to the auxiliary loads.
Please note the following: The plate usually receives 220V through the
brown and blue, the latter being common to all the components. The
brown feeds the triacs that will enable each of the loads
when the mic indicates it.
Some use mechanical pressure switches and others use electronic ones. You should
respect the model used by each plate.
The ones corresponding to the door switch that disables the spinning.
It will be enough to place a bridge on the appropriate pins. In this case, 4.
and 7 on the card. To identify them in other models, you just need to
follow their connection cables to the connector and bridge them.
You must be very careful when handling the board with voltage.
personal safety and the electronic components that operate
with voltages of 12V and 5V. Remember that the triacs are powered.
with 220V.

Electricity.
This is a topic we could dedicate hundreds of pages to, but
Since there are already countless books on electricity, I only
we will dedicate the essential so that the reader has the
necessary knowledge to perform without any problems in
this profession.
I would like to explain to you the topic of electricity from the same.
atom, but everyone will see their knowledge on the subject.
the chapter is only indicative.
Electricity is nothing more than moving electrons. As
does this happen? Let's suppose we have a circuit to turn on a
lamp with a switch like the one we saw in the previous chapter.
We have the cables connected to the 220V line, the switch and the
lamp. In the entire circuit we have small particles called
electrons that react when they receive a potential difference
(+ y -) they start moving generating the current. This happens
when closing the switch.
In other words, imagine a water pipe with a faucet.
The water is at rest, but when you open the tap, it circulates.
creating a water current.
Through laws and mathematical formulas, we can calculate the
power, current, voltage, resistance, etc.
One of these laws, and the most used in our case, is the Law of
Ohm.
The concept of resistance allowed the physicist Ohm to develop a law.
basic electricity, which relates the three factors that
govern any electrical or electronic circuit: Voltage,
Intensity and Resistance. Ohm's Law states that for every
conductor in which electrical energy is transformed into energy
heating, there is a constant relationship between the potential difference
between two given points and the intensity of the current. Its expression
mathematics is R=V/I where (V) is the voltage expressed in
volts, R is the resistance expressed in ohms and (I) is the
intensity expressed in amperes.
To not forget these essential formulas in the execution
from the calculations of any electrical circuit, there is a diagram
quite representative (Fig.4-5) from which the following can be easily deduced:
Even simpler is the circle on the right that allows us
easily memorize this formula. Covering the expression that
We would like to find out, please tell us how to proceed. For example, if we want to
to find out the Voltage of a circuit, we cover (V) and we are left with (I) x
(R). If we want to find out the intensity, we cover (I) and we are left with
(V) / divided by (R) and if we want to find out the resistance, we cover (R)
and we have left (V) / divided (I). Next, we will give some
examples.

Use of the Multimeter or Tester.

As its name indicates, multimeter means that it is used to measure.
different things.
With this device you can measure voltage (Volt), current (Ampere) and
continuity (Ohms). Depending on the models, measurements can also be taken
capacitors (F), transistors (TR), C-MOS and TTL integrated circuits, etc.
but these last ones do not interest us since they are used in electronics.
In Fig.4-6 we show the physical appearance of an analog model and its
different ranges of measurement for Volts, Amperes, and Ohms.
The figures correspond to
low-cost devices that
it can be found anywhere
electronics business
electricity houses and
hardware stores. With the cover
all the needs that
may arise in your future
repairs.

As we have been doing from the beginning, we will give a

explicación de cada rango de medición y ejemplos de uso.
Voltage: Voltage is referred to as the voltage drop across a
element. E.g. A lamp.
This can be either alternating current or direct current.

Current or Intensity - Current or intensity (I) is referred to as

flow of electrons that circulates through a conductor.
 The ranges of 200m and 2000m correspond to millivolt and
They are hardly used in our case since voltages are handled.
superiors. These are used in electronics.
In the range of up to 20V, it can measure a 12V battery, batteries.
common 1.5V batteries or 9V batteries, etc.

In these cases, there is no danger of electrical shock. However, caution should be exercised.
when working with higher voltages to avoid receiving an electric shock
unpleasant or dangerous. It should also take into account the polarity
(+ y -) otherwise it will be indicated with a – sign on the display.
In digital multimeters, if you choose a scale lower than the voltage to
to measure, this will simply not register anything without burning.
If you use a needle tester and the voltage you are going to measure exceeds
measurement range, the needle (analog) will hit marking the
maximum and the device can be burned or damaged.
Perhaps the one you will use the most is the one corresponding to Ohms and the
moment to buy a tester, I recommend it to be one with
audible continuity tester. Like the one in figure A
This option is very useful for checking cables, loose contacts, etc. and
allows you to do it without having to look at the device.
If you touch both ends of the tester, you will hear its sound.
the same will happen when I measure. For example, both ends of a cable,
check pressure switch contacts, blowing on it to see if it is correct
functioning, testing programmer contacts, etc.
It is worth noting that in the cicada option, it will not sound when what
it is measuring offers a resistance greater than the calibrated of
device (generally over 20 ohms). That is, e.g. if it measures the
coil of an EV (electromagnetic valve), the buzzer will not sound anymore because the
it is not a direct contact and offers a resistance of 3600
ohms approximately. It will not be able to measure it on the scale of
up to 2000 ohms or 2K, although when placing the probes of the tester,
the counter will display some numbers for a moment, but when acting on the
counter and exceed the scale, this will not indicate anything. To measure a
EV must choose the range of up to 20K, that is, 20000 ohms and in the
the tester will indicate approximately 3.70 + or - .
If the display does not indicate any reading, it means that the coil of the
EV is open or cut. If, on the contrary (rarely happens) the
display indicates a reading close to 0 ohms, it means it is in
short circuit.
NOTE: In resistance, when a value is followed by a K, it indicates
what value should be multiplied by 1000. If followed by a
M, then you should multiply it by 1,000,000. The M means
Megohm-million ohms.
Example:
1k = 1000 ohms 1M = 1000000 ohms
2k7 = 2700 ohms 2M7 = 2700000 ohms
6K8 = 6800 ohms 6M8 = 6800000 ohms
33k = 33000 ohms 33M = 33000000 ohms

In the aforementioned case, if we take the 20K scale or

there are 20000 ohms and in the indicator we see 3.72, it indicates that
it refers to 3k7, that is, 3720 ohms.
If the same measurement is performed on the scale of up to 200K That is
200000 ohms, the display will indicate 03.7 and in the scale of up to
2000K will indicate 003.
Therefore, when you wish to measure any component to see its
state, always choose the minor scale for greater accuracy, as
the greater it is, the greater the sensitivity of the device.
Take the following test: choose the option to measure up to 2000K and
touch both ends of the tester with your fingers. You will see that it will mark a
resistance, corresponding to the moisture transmitted by the skin and
the more I press the tips, the less resistance there will be (greater
continuity).
There is another option that usually comes in the same ohm scale or
highlighted separately and serves to measure diodes.
Diodes are used to rectify current. Through this
component, alternating current can be transformed into direct current.
It is generally used in electronic boards, although there are some
washing machines that use it to activate solenoids for an action
specific.
Later we will make a small overview of electronics in which
we will explain the operation of diodes, triacs, resistors,
color codes, etc. and a basis of how a programmer works
modern electronic.
Now let's continue with the scale for measuring current A (amperes).
Here you must be very careful for the following reason. If you are going to
measure currents above 200mA (200 milliamperes) or rather the
fifth part of 1A, you must change the red plug of the tips of the
test the location and place it in the one corresponding to 10A. It usually happens
that he forgets having changed the tips and in some cases
it will cause the multimeter to break. If you connect it in this position to
220V will burn the device.
With the tips in their correct position, we can measure in a way of
example of what current flows through the EV when it is in
operation, or a drainage pump, etc.
To make that measurement, the tester must be placed in series with the
circuit to measure.
A drainage pump has an approximate consumption of 100mA and
a 20mA EV. Low-cost testers are not very precise, but
it will serve you for all the tasks of the workshop.
There are devices called Clamp Ammeters which are used to
measure the circulating current through a circuit without the need for
intercalate it in the same. It is only necessary to place the clamp around
a cable and it will indicate the current flowing through it. These
they can also be digital or analog.

Having understood the use of the multimeter or tester, let's now move on
to get to know some electronic components so that I can carry out
some simple repairs.
Resistance: There are many types of resistors, which we can
appreciate in the following figure.

Some have their value indicated in numbers and others by the

color code that we will explain below.

To ensure your understanding, we will provide some examples:

Banda 1-Amarillo, banda 2-violeta, banda 3-rojo = 4700 ohms
Band 1-Orange, band 2-White, band 3-Orange = 39000 ohms
Band 1-Orange, band 2-White, band 3-Brown = 390 ohms
Band 1-red, band 2-gray, band 3-green =2800000 0hms or 2M8
Band 1-blue, band 2-gray, band 3-black = 068 ohms
When the third band is black, the values can be up to
99 ohms.
In the case of resistances less than 10 ohms, the third band will be
golden in color.
Banda 1-marrón, banda 2-verde, banda 3-dorado =1,5 ohms
Remember that the tolerance band 4 is always higher
separated from the rest as indicated in the previous figure.
The results of the following test can be found at the end of the book.

Association of resistors: Here I will explain how

determine the value of the resistors according to whether they are connected in series
the parallel.
When they are connected in series (one after the other),
simplemente se suman los valores de cada una sin importar la
amount.
To calculate the value of the resistors in parallel, we must apply the
next formula:

As we can see in the previous figure and regardless of the

The amount of R in parallel is calculated in the same way.
We use the same values from the series example for you.
you can appreciate the difference. The indicated values are also
standard commercial values so that I can conduct the experience.
While the formula is exact, in practice it may indicate a
small difference according to the tolerance of the resistors
used and the quality and accuracy of the multimeter used.
In the example, once we apply the first part of the formula,
That is, R1xR2 divided by R1+R2 gives us a result of 72.972972 ohms.
In order to simplify the calculations and eliminate decimals, in the
the next step we take the closest value which is 73 ohms
as you will see in the figure. Taking the value that the first one gave us
application, we do the same with R3, obtaining a value of
61.4908 ohms. If there were another R in parallel, we would do the same with
the missing R. The result of the resistances in parallel will always be
is less than the smallest, in this case, the R minor is the one of 100 ohms and
The final result is 61 ohms.
Transformer: (Trafo) There are many types but we will focus on
those that you will see in the devices that can enter your workshop.
It has several windings on the same core material.
ferrous. They also differ in size due to the purpose for which
it is destined, as it depends on the current consumption that is going to
need the circuit to be powered. Example: a boombox uses a
500mA transformer, while a power supply to feed a
The car stereo will require at least 1 A, ideally a transformer of 3.
A. Since this topic is very complex and my desire is to train you.
to be able to repair different devices that will come to their hands,
we will address this topic with examples.

The primary winding is where the line voltage is applied and is

completely isolated from the secondary winding. In audio devices
you have surely seen a switch that selects 110V or 220V.
in these cases, the primary consists of two windings united in one of its
extremes, being common to both. The secondary may vary in
number of outputs, according to their use.
When facing a repair, you should eliminate stages.
to confront the problem.
Let's suppose you need to repair a Sanyo ASW-F45T washing machine and the
the failure is that nothing turns on. In almost all cases, it is due to a
problem with the control card.
As a first step, we must check the line input cable.
up to the connector that connects to the board. The blue and brown wires are
those that feed it with 220V.
Having removed the plate from its place, you will see a small
transformer that is responsible for supplying the voltages
necessary for its operation. It can measure the primary of the transformer
placing the tester probes in the socket. It should read
approximately 1800 ohms. Pay attention to the photos. In many
This case is cut causing all the problem and you will be able to repair it.
without any inconvenience. This transformer is 220-12 x 300ma, that is to say
the primary is for 220V, the secondary provides 12V of AC and the
the consumption is 300mA. When changing it, I suggest you do so by
one of 500ma. In the next level we will expand the information about
operation of this board.

Diode

There are several types of diodes: Rectifiers

slow driving, fast, zener, leds, high
tension, etc. We will only explain the principle
of operation and most common uses of
some.

LEDs are light emitters and you probably already know about them.
that are used in TV, audio equipment, washing machines, etc. The most
the used ones are red, green, and yellow although there are combined ones.
and other colors. They serve as markers.
Zener diodes are used to regulate a specific voltage,
associated with other components.
The high voltage ones are the ones used in microwaves.
Rectifiers are designed to work with currents.
intense and generally we find them in power supplies.
We will refer to these in order to make some measurements.
simple. In the figure below we show 3 types of fonts
of the ones you can find in different devices and manufacture for
any specific utility if you wish.

The diodes to be used will be in relation to the current delivered by the

secondary: 1 A - 1N4001 (600V x 1 A) 2 A - 1N4007 (1000V x 2.5
A) y 3 A –1N5408 (1000V x 3 A)
As we can see, all have a 220v transformer. The output of
the same, that is, the secondary can be 3V, 6V, 12V, etc. Although
it is completely isolated from the primary, at the output we have current
alternating. To transform it into direct current, diodes are used and to
filter, the capacitor C1. This way we obtain a current
continua como la de las baterías o pilas.
To explain it briefly, a diode allows the flow of current.
in one direction. With a few components, you can make some
experiments to gain experience.
I took a battery holder for 4 elements (they can be small AA batteries),
a 6V bulb and any diode (1N4007). Make the
experience of the figure that follows and will see the result. The terminal of
The cathode of the diode is marked with a line, the other is the anode.
(little triangle).
Direct current or DC always maintains the same polarity,
while alternating current reverses it every cycle. The
the main characteristic is that the pole that is positive, at another moment
it will be negative. This change of polarity is called a cycle and is measured
in Hertz.
In Argentina, we have a voltage of 220V-50 Hertz. This
it means that the frequency will be 50 cycles per second. If
observe a common lamp turned on, it will seem to you that the light vibrates.
This is due to the + and - cycles of alternating current. Which does not
It happens in lamps connected to direct current.

Relays: Relays are used to control currents greater than

through some contacts that are activated by a solenoid that
needs less current.
Its operation does not need much explanation. When it is necessary
change one, always use one with the same characteristics.
These need direct current to activate, since if they are
apply alternating current this will vibrate.
If you have done any tests with an EV (solenoid valve), you may have noticed
what produces a vibration, this is due to positive cycles and
negatives of alternating current. If direct current were applied
it would remain open and fixed, without vibrating.

Capacitors or Condensers: There are many types of condensers,

electrolytic, ceramic, variable, but the ones we are going to use the most
they are the 10MF, 12MF, 14MF, 16MF, etc., and they are the ones we will use
in washing machine motors. There are also high capacitors
tension used in microwaves.
The unit of capacitance is the farad. This unit is too
large for practical uses, for which submultiples are used that
we see in the following figure:

Capacitor association.
Like resistors, these can be placed in series or
parallel, so we need to know what values we have left according to the
case.
Parallel: When we place two or more capacitors in parallel, we
we sum all the capabilities and obtain the result. Example: If
we installed a 16 MF capacitor in parallel with a 10 MF one
one of 18 MF, the result would be the sum of all of them, namely 44 MF.
Series: Instead, for the arrangement series we must apply the
next formula.
Triac
The triac is widely used today in electronic programmers.
and circuit boards that control washing machine motors, as well as in
many other applications. Replaces relays with many
advantages, since by not having moving parts (like the contacts of
the relays), does not suffer wear during its operation.
It has 3 terminals named MT1, MT2, and Gate.
In the following figure we can see its physical appearance, its symbol and
An example of how to turn on a lamp. Although it could also
being a motor, appliance, etc.

The terminals MT1 and MT2 are the ones that connect to close the
circuit (switch).
Cuando se aplica una señal en la compuerta o Gate, se cierran los
internal contacts of the triac and the device that is connected through
from him it ignites.
The signal applied to the gate is of low power, of the order
from 1 to 2 volts and 30 to 50 ml.
Basically, it is an electronic key. What does this mean? It means
that through a signal applied to this component it connects
internally to conduct electricity. That is: Imagine a key or
common switch. To activate it, it needs to be pressed. The signal
applied would be that pressure to ignite it.
If you replace the control circuit in the drawing with the resistor,
but the switch can be controlled by turning the key.
As this is a bidirectional device, that is, the current
it flows in both directions, it is not possible to identify its legs as
anode (A) or cathode (K) as would happen with an SCR. For this reason,
its activation through the gate (G) can be with a
negative or positive signal with respect to MT1 and MT2.
I say this because at the time of replacing a BCR1AM with a
TIC106D and having connected the gate correctly,
It may activate as soon as power is supplied to the board.
If this happens, try swapping the terminals MT1 and MT2.
With this we have provided some guiding concepts of electronics
some components.
---------------------------------FIFTH LEVEL-----------------------------
Now we will explain how a board used in washing machines works.
modern. Example Sanyo, Goldstar, LG, Daewo, Philco, etc.
In the following figure, we show a Sanyo washing machine circuit.
AWS 55.

This model does not have a mechanical programmer like the one that
we studied earlier.
The program is electronic and is based on a microcontroller that
he is responsible for indicating through signals to which components
send this signal. The times are controlled by timers
electronics. In the previous figure we can see the 9P connector (plug)
that connects all the components to the main board.
Assuming that a normal wash program is chosen, first
instance, the microcontroller (microprocessor) will send a signal
(voltage) to the gate of the Triac that powers the EV (water
valve) and the water filling will begin.
This model has a pressure switch (water level sensor) that is not
mechanic and will not be able to test like those known so far and to
soplarlo, no escuchará ningún clic como en los otros modelos. Este
it has an internal coil that along with some capacitors forms
It is known in electronics as a resonant circuit. When the
water reaches the appropriate level emits a signal to the microcontroller and
this disables the triac that powers the EV. Next step and through
from the times recorded in the program, the microcontroller
start to alternately feed the gates of the
triacs that control the washing motor. These are the ones that handle the most
current they must support, are mounted on an aluminum radiator
to prevent overheating. When the washing cycle ends, the
microcontroller deactivates the outputs that power the terminals
Gate of the TRIACs connected to the LC motor and activate the output of the microcontroller.
to energize the terminal gate of the drainage pump
motor) and of the micromotor that releases the mechanism for the
centrifuging (torque motor).
Then, keeping these gates activated, an output of
microcontroller sends a fixed signal to the gate of the triac
that controls the motor to start the spinning. It also has a
sensor on the top lid of the washing machine, which if it is open does not
allow this to spin as a precaution.
The price of these plates is usually quite high and sometimes not
It is so difficult to repair if you have the necessary knowledge. All
They come sealed so that humidity doesn't affect them. Some with a
rubber-like resin amber color. In this case, you can remove it with much
be careful not to damage the printed circuit and change the one or more
affected components.
Next, I will show you a figure as an example and
to further clarify the operation of these plates and especially the
microcontroller, microprocessor or simply micro.
In the signal inputs of the micro, the signal from also enters
pressure switch, the one for safety sensors, etc. Of course, this
It is very simplified. The output of the microcontrollers does not have
the current necessary to directly activate the gate of a
triac. For this, it has a transistor that amplifies this signal.
enough to activate it.
The microcontroller operates at a voltage of 5V. The outputs that
the triacs are fed at 0V and when it is enabled
internally each one, as the case may be, that output now has
5V with respect to the ground of the board. This is not enough to
activate the triac through the gate, but as we explained
previously, it does so through a transistor that amplifies this
signal.
You will also see at the right time that there are many more components.
like resistors, ceramic and electrolytic capacitors, LEDs,
, which make up this and other plates, but my objective is
explain to me as best as possible so that I understand perfectly the
general operation and in this way achieve giving the
knowledge for a good diagnosis of the failures that may occur
to present itself to him/her.
Note: It should be clarified that the triacs that handle the EV, the MB and the
Torque Micromotor, they have the physical appearance of a type transistor.
BC 548 and are 1 A. Generally, they tend to be placed in
short circuit or open up.
For example: Assuming that the triac that powers the EV is shorted, barely
turn on the washing machine, it will start filling with water and will not stop
even though the pressure switch sends the cut-off order to the micro.
In the event that it is open, the water load will not start.
I may need to change one of these triacs at some point.
1 A (BCR 1AM) and cannot find it. You can replace it with a TIC.
226, BTB 400 or any other. The difference is that these are for
main current (8 A). Be especially careful with its placement.

Note that the location of your terminals is different and their format.
also. To the right of the figure, I have made a drawing to
to further facilitate your understanding. The Triac is an electronic switch
and if their terminals MT1 and MT2 are shorted, the circuit would be
closed indefinitely, so the charge would remain at the voltage
of line. If these terminals are open internally, they will not comply.
the order of the gate gate. The gate Gate is the one that
turn on or off. (on-off)

New models and trends

The new models are incorporating electronics to the point
where they practically handle the entire washing process.
Some models only use speed control plates for the
motor LC, fixed and adjustable. Others act together with the
programmer to activate micro-relays that switch the winding of
washing and spinning.

These plates are designed to regulate and control the speed of

motor LC. The programmer indicates whether it is in washing or spinning or
some gentle wash. This varies the speed of the motor, the
how it is determined by the tachometer coil through pulses
magnetic. These are the cases of greatest difficulty at the time of
search for the fault. If spare parts are available to test.
changing it for a new one would be the most advisable. Sometimes the
False contacts or sulfate plates cause the failure.
The most modern, especially the eastern models, come with a
digital programmer, lights (leds), digital counter (display), alarms
of detention, etc. Sanyo-Goldstar-Philco-Daewo-Toshiba-Luxury.
and others. From here, the wash program is selected using buttons and
various easy-to-read menus.
Electronics allows for the use of lower power motors with it
that electric consumption is reduced. Although they are aesthetically
more attractive to the consumer, at the time of its breakage, the cost of
The replacement parts can be expensive. Labor can also be high, as when
owning electronic components requires more training and
You must pay more attention to avoid burning these spare parts and check.
take care.
There is such a variety of models and brands that it would be almost impossible.
list them all. Additionally, others will continue to appear that when
At the time of writing this book, they are not yet available on the market.
This is due to the constant advancement of electronics, which is increasingly...
miniaturizing and reducing the cost of technology. Just like
It happens with TVs, DVDs, cell phones, etc.

Washing Systems

American: The American system

consists of a vertical drum of
top load, with a mixer
central and a basket in charge of
centrifugation Fig.5-1

European: He is the most known for

everyone and the one we used as an example
in this book. Front load.
Fig.5-2 A
We also have the load models.
superior like Fig. 5-2 B

Oriental: This is similar to the American.

Vertical top-loading drum, but
instead of using a stirrer, use a
turbine that spins in both directions
alternatively. Fig. 5-3
Ventajas y desventajas de cada sistema.
The American washing system is very good. They execute well.
washing, rinsing and spinning regarding the garments we
we refer. That is to say that the stirring palette shakes the garments with
energy without mistreating them just like a semi-automatic but with
spinning drum.
The European system needs more time to provide the same.
washing quality than the previous one, but treats the garments better
gently. These are shown in Figures 5-2 A and 5-2 B and
they have a basket that inside contains 3 or 4 agitators, which are
those who rub the garments.
The eastern system is the fastest. In just 30 minutes it did
the entire process, but the turbine, when spinning so fast, produces a
friction that wears out clothes more quickly. That is why they come with a
net bag type filter that collects the lint produced by this friction.
They are the quietest.

Colors
Black - Negro Blue Brown- Marrón
Green- Verde Grey- Gris Orange- Naranja
Pink- Rosa Red- Rojo Violet- Violeta
White Yellow Light Blue- Celeste

Abbreviations and terms in English.

Cold - Frío
Cold Water Valve - Cold washing electroválvula.
Coil - Bobina - Inductor
Door- Puerta
Hot
Hot Water Valve - Hot Wash Solenoid Valve.
PM- Pump Motor: Drainage Pump Motor
Rinse
SW- Switch: Interruptor
Safety Switch - Safety Switch.
TM - Torque Motor: Torque motor - Micromotor that releases
centrifugation mechanism.
WLS - Water Level Sensor - Water level sensor.
WV- Water Valve: Solenoid Valve

General Abbreviations.

A-Amper
AC - Alternating Current
CC-DC- Direct Current
EV - Electromagnetic valve
I- Intensity
M- Motor
MB- Pump motor
MF- Medium Wave
ML - Motor Washing
MC_ Centrifuged Motor
NA - Open normal
NC - Closed normal
PR-Pres- Pressure Switch
R- Resistance
RC- Heating resistor
RPM - Revolutions per minute
Timer - Clock or Programmer
TR- Triac
V - Voltage
W- What
Special cases and tools.
Sometimes it happens that the bobbins break, leaving them stuck.
his tracks on the support and on the shirt, making it difficult to remove them. The
the method I use is the following:

To get the track of the axis of the

drum, it can be welded the
same with electric welder
until I have enough
temperature (being careful not to
damage the axis). This dilates it and
you can take it out with a pick of
they, pin or small ones
taps. It can also be
heat with a torch.
In the case of having to remove an exterior lining from a shirt,
The most practical thing is to make a few points (3 or 4) with an electric welder.
on the inside of the bolt holder to have a support point where
to hit.
Suspension spring opener pliers. (Ferodos)
This clamp is very practical when lowering a machine and placing it.
the suspension and springs. It allows to keep the support of the
ferodos and the only thing that must be done is to guide the machine to its
position.

Here we see the detail of the tip.

I made this clip with a clip of
open zeguer and I welded two little pieces
of angles at the tips and a center of
bowl, cut in half. For
to lock it once it's open, I use a
plastic seal.
Another very practical clamp is the one for opening clamps.

Installation for Workshop.

According to the needs of each one, here I show you an idea
on how to install water and electricity pipes so that it
it is comfortable and safe when testing the washing machines that have
were repaired.

For this installation, it is advisable to use high-quality shut-off valves.

good sockets and thermal ones, to avoid water losses and
false contacts due to intense use.
It is very important not to do without the grounding spike.
Resistance Test - Results
R1--2.2 ohms R2--27 ohms R3--68 ohms
R4--150 ohms R5--4k7 R6--5k6
R7--3k9 R8--8k2 R9--33k
R10--68k R11--47k R12--27k
R13--100k R14--270k
R15--1M8 = 1,800,000 ohms R16--1M = 1,000,000 ohms
USEFUL DATA
Never turn the programmer's knob counterclockwise.
clock hands.
Be especially careful when you need to take out a timer. You should first
remove the knob. In some cases, they have screw caps that must be
remove to access the nut that secures the knob.

In Electrolux models, you will need a pin that must

insert into a small hole in the knob, being careful not to
introduce it too much as it will break the internal barrier. Then you should
apply inward pressure and rotate counterclockwise
from the clock, then pull outward. The following photos will be of
help.
In the AURORA models, it is similar, but it is not necessary to introduce
no pin. Just apply pressure inward and turn in direction
counterclockwise. However, this anchoring system
it's so fair that it's very hard to prevent it from breaking. Since its cost
It is trivial, it is better to break it before forcing or damaging the timer.

Other knobs have a snap-on cover. It will be enough to place a sheet.

with the blade in the slot and force outward.

In top load models, some knobs come off along with the
panel cover. If you try to remove it individually, you run the risk of
breaking the barriers. E.g. Whirpool, E. of Luxury.
In the Samsung models, to remove the front and back panel,
you must remove the plastic covers that cover the fastening screws.
Then you should run to the left about 1 cm.
panel and then pull upward.

Whirlpool 050 - Adapter Cuba Pulley Side

Patrick and similar models. Remove Timer Knob

High-Speed Bearing

Here you can clearly see the key.

-Whirlpool –E. de Lujo- mod-050 and others. Top Load.

models that use the High-Speed set located in the
the opposite side of the pulley and that holds the drum has a key
that fixes it to the tub, which must be removed to get the drum out.