CLASSIFICATION OF KNITS
CLASSIFICATION OF KNITS
03/17/2023 By Sunil Talekar, Student handout-SOFT -Pune
CLASSIFICATION OF KNITS
KNITTIN
G
WARP WEFT
TRICO RASCHE CIRCULA
FLAT
T L R
SINGLE
COTTON
V BED PURL NEEDLE
PATENT
BED
SEAMLE
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WEFT KNITTING
In weft knitting;
• yarn is fed to knitting needles.
• Needle with the help of cams, sinker make a new
loop and
• passed it into previously held loops.
• Weft knitting is made using a single yarn.
• It can be made by hand knitting or by machines.
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WEFT KNITTING
Characteristics of weft knits:
• The fabric has high elasticity and stretch.
• The loops of yarn trap air which retains body heat to keep us
warm.
• The right and wrong sides of the fabric look different.
• the fabrics can lose shape easily.
• Creases fall out easily.
• The fabric can unravel and ladder easily.
• Weft knitted fabrics curl up at the edges when they are cut.
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TYPES OF WEFT KNITTING
CIRCULAR KNITTING
FLAT KNITTING
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Circular Knitting Machine
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Flat Knitting Machines
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WEFT KNITTED FABRIC
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Circular Knitting Machines
In circular knitting machines needles are fixed on a cylinder or
dial in a circular shape.
There are more than one feeders to feed yarn to needles at
different places.
In most of the cases needle bed (cylinder or dial) moves while
feeders remain stationary.
Diameter of cylinder and dial is fixed but in case of sock
knitting machines it is changeable due to structure of socks
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FLAT KNITTING MACHINES
• In flat knitting machines needles are fixed on
a straight plate.
• On this machine needle bed remains
stationary while yarn feeding system called
carriage moves from one end to other end
• This machine is used to knit collars, arm
bands and sweaters
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TYPES OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINES
SINGLE KNITTING
DOUBLE KNITTING
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SINGLE KNIT MACHINE
• In these machines needles are fixed on
cylinder
• sinker are fixed on sinker ring
• Needles knit with the help of sinkers
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SINGLE KNIT MACHINE
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DOUBLE KNIT MACHINE
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DOUBLE KNIT MACHINE
• In double knit machine needles are fixed
on dial as well as on cylinders
• There is no sinkers on this machine
• This machine is used to knit interlock,
rib and double jerseys
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SINKER
1=Butt,
2=Butt breadth,
3=Height of shank,
4=Buldge,
5=Neb,
6=Length of neb,
7=Throat angle,
8=Sinker platform
height,
9=Breadth of lower
shank,
10=Clearance,
11=Throat
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SINKER
1. The held loop is positioned in the throat of the sinker when
the sinker moves forward and the needle moves upward for
clearing. The held loop is held by the throat and hence its
movement along the needle is restricted.
2. The sinker remains at its forward position when the needle
attains its clearing position.
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SINKER
3. The sinker retracts (pull back) when the needle comes down after feeding. At this
stage, due to sinkers retraction, fabric or held loop is eased out. Also the sinker belly
supported the fabric or held loop and hence its movements along the needle is
prevented.
4. Sinker remains in backward position and the needle descends to its lowest position
drawing the new loop through the old one.
5. Before the needle ascends, the sinker moves forward to push the knitted fabric a
little and to hold the old loop away from the head of the needle and to be in a position
to control the fabric.
DOUBLE KNIT MACHINE
Interlock--- Two sides are fully knitted, highly
flexible used for under garments. Front and back
wales are exactly at same point
Rib--- two sides are fully knitted. Less flexible but
have strong grip, used for neck, cuff opening and
waist band. Front and back wales are not at same point
Double Jersey
Double side knitted, can have different designs on
both sides
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INTERLOCK MACHINE
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DOUBLE KNIT JACQUARD KNITTING MACHINE
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Double Knit Jacquard Knitting Machine
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TYPES OF SINGLE KNITTING MACHINES
Plain knitting
Loop knitting
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SINGLE KNIT PLAIN KNITTING MACHINES
Mostly called jersey machines. On this
machines, there is a set of needles and sinkers.
These machines may be single track of multi
track.
From one track to six track machines are
available.
These machine can knit jersey, pique, honey
comb, mini jacquard
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SINGLE PLAIN KNITTING MACHINES
Single Track
Multi Track
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SINGLE TRACK SINGLE KNIT
Track means number of cams vertically fitted
In single track machine there is only one track
This machine can knit only full knit fabric
(single jersey)
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Multi Track Knitting Machine
In this machine there are 2-6 tracks
More number of tracks means that variety of
designs can be produced
On these machine many types of fabric can be
produced, like, pique, pique fleece, two thread
fleece and mini jacquard
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Multi Track Knitting Machine
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LOOP KNITTING MACHINES
In these machines we can make loop on one
or on both sides of fabric.
By introducing loops we can increase the
weight and bulkiness of fabric
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Types of Loop Knitting Machines
Terry
Fleece
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TERRY FABRIC
This fabric has loops on the surface, like towel
but the length of loops is smaller than towels.
Normally used to make shirts of kids or for
people working under high temperature to
absorb the moisture
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TERRY KNITTING MACHINE
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TERRY KNITTING MACHINE
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TYPES OF SINGLE KNITTING MACHINES
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SINGLE JERSEY DOUBLE FACE FABRIC
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THREE THREAD KNITTING MACHINE
This machine is used to produce fleece fabric. This
fabric is plain from one side. Mostly front side is of
single jersey and on back loop is inserted across
various number of wales (normally two to three wales
are covered).
Back side is brushed with the help of raising machine
to make it more comfortable and bulky as well as
warm
Two types of threads are used; fine for the top and
course for back ( 30/16, 28/12 etc)
THREE THREAD FLEECE MACHINE
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FLEECE FABRIC
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STRIPER
In stripe knitting machines we can produce horizontal stripes
with the help of scissors which cuts the yarn and a new yarn is
fed
There are two types of:
• Mechanical
• Electronic
Note: in current era there is no fresh production of mechanical
strip machines
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STRIPE KNITTING MACHINE
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JACQUARD KNITTING MACHINES
These machine are available in,
• Single bed
• Double knit technology
• Normally more than one colored yarns are
used.
• Different patterns are made
• Normally 4-6 color machines are available
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JACQUARD KNITTING
MACHINES
JACQUARD MACHINES
Mechanical Jacquard
Electronic Jacquard
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JACQUARD FABRIC
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FLAT KNITTING
Single bed
Double bed
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FULL GARMENT FLAT KNITTING
MACHINES
• These are latest machines and
• are used to make full length of garment
• Quite expensive
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GLOVES KNITTING MACHINE
In this machine bed
rotates and carriage
moves from one side
to other
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WARP KNITTING
Raschel, made with latch needles,
Tricot, using bearded needles.
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WARP KNITTING MACHINE
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WARP KNITTED FABRIC
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THE PROPERTIES OF WARP KNITTED STRUCTURES
Warp knitting offers:
• Higher production rates than for weaving.
• A wide variety of fabric constructions.
• Large working widths.
• A low stress rate on the yarn that facilitates careful
handling of fibres such as glass, aramide and carbon
(particularly when using weft-insertion techniques).
• Conventional warp knitted structures that can be
directionally structured.
• Three-dimensional structures that can be knitted on
double needle bar raschels.
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WARP KNITTING
Main products
• Nets
• Curtains
• Technical fabrics
• Covers
• Covering sheets
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WORKING PRINCIPLE
• Warp sheet
• Loops development with the help of needles
• Loops insertion with the help of needles
• Needle movement controls mechanically and
electronically
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PROPERTIES OF WARP KNITTED FABRIC
• More stable than knitted
• Big and small holes are possible
• Many designs are possible
• Highly course yarn can be used
• Technical fabric can be produced
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USE OF WARP KNITTED FABRIC
• use to fulfill technical demands, like, filters,
seat covers etc
• used as curtains, table covers
• used as chadar in some countries
• not used for clothing
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WARP KNITTING
In this process;
• yarn sheet is developed (warp sheet)
• and then with the help of needles stitches
are formed by,
• insertion new loop into old loop
WARP KNITTING TECHNOLOGY
• Warp knitting machines--needles are
mounted collectively and rigidly in a
horizontal metal bar (the needle bar that
runs the full knitting width of the machine).
• Equally the yarn guides are also set rigidly
into a horizontal metal bar (the guide bar
that runs the full width of the machine).
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