Buitons, chapter _ Buitonholes, i _ and Facings 1 3d 3d ash dt ae we Ae Me342 Chapter 16 [BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES Buttons and buttonboles are both functional and dec- orstive, but their primary purpose is to hold two sides garment together by having a button on one side of the garment slipped through a corresponding open- ing or loop on the other side. (Other types of closures are Velcro, snaps, hooks and eyes, and grippers} range in size, and they come detailed or fist in a wide range of geometric shapes, such as circle, square, rectangle, quarter-ball, half-ball, and full-ball Buttons can be made of plastic, metal, ot natural substances (wood, bone. mother-of-pearl), of covered in Exbric or leathex. They can be plain or decorative— jeweled, corded, carved, or saddle stitched. There are buttons for every typeof garment, from sportswear tar Formal weat, making the button an important fashion slalement. Rutlonholles are openings or hoops wide enough te accommodate the size of the button, placed on an ovet- lapping section of the gatment of at a boop whete the cented lines incet. Women sweat gatments button right covet lefl, thtoxigh wertical, horzontal, of angled slits, Rot Guerter bell Hot bal Fula BUTTON SLES Line T4194" O Line 14/8" line WEaylé* 7012 ui O ©) lw 22 916" Line 30:4 * Q Line 36 1/8" QO tine 401" OQ Line 45 11727 O) Lew 851.387 O Lee 10 Ha" O Line 802°Basic Types of Buttons SewThrough Sew-through butions have two or four holes for attachment. Twohole bution Fourhole button Shank Buttons Shank buttons have a solid top and various types of shank (wire, fabric, loop, metal, or plastic) attached ta the underside. The shank raises the button away from the fabric surlace. allowing room fot layers of fabtte to fit smoothly under the button when closed. Cm &> Chath shark Metal thork Types of Buttonholes Machine-Sttched Thttonholes can be stitched as straight or keyhole openings. Briar fase Bound BuHtonholen Folded fabwic coven the raw edge opening in the garment, This type of buttonhole ean be made by a senmistress or send to a trian house der stitchieyg, SS Bound Loops Loops are narrow strips of tumed bias with or with out a filler. For mass-produced garments, laops ore generally made by a trim house. Loops are stitched at center line, The joined side can be developed with or without an extension, Slits, Slits cam be cut in leather, plastic, or fabric that will not ravel (not illustrated). BUTTONS, BUTTONHOLES, AND FACINGS 343 SPAGHETT LOOPS Chee Barket looned Spaced Button/Buttonhole Extension ‘Overlap Button closures require an overlap extending be- ‘yond the centet line. The extension should be exjual te the diatneter of the button tot one-half the diatn- eter on inexpensive garments Asymmetric: gare ments have extensions that are parallel with the anyinimetnic line, The center of the button is stitched ‘on the center line of the garment. The buttonhole starls af the centet line and finishes on the besly of the garment. Mote information bollew, THREAD LOOPS Chain looper344° Chapter 16 Buttonhole Length The length of a buttomhole is determined by the di- ameter of a flat bution plus 1/3 inch. For stylistic buttons (odd shapes}, see page 361. Butonhole Placement The buttonhole placement generally starts 1/8 inch cout from the center front (on the extension). Haw- ever, contideration must be given te the distance be (oven the holes of the button or te the width of the button shank. Mark the buttonhole placement out from the centet line one-half the distance between he holes of the button and one-half the width of the shank. Otherwise, the buttonhole will not be centered with the button. Make a copy from frant to shoukiet/neck for the penon whe makes the buttonholes, Button and Buttonhole Placement Guide Hecklines Mark the buttonbole dows from the neckline at a distanice equal to one-half the diameter of the but= ton, plus 1/4 inch, =f \ FRONT LEFT SIDE Belted Garment Mark the position so that buttombole is at beast 1 1/2 inches up and down from bel or buckle width. The waist can be secured with Velcro or book and eye, if needed (sec examples}. Apply the same rule for the waistband on the buttonbole side. eS = eth ro “stot tas) =" en Unbelted Garment Mark buttanbole placement at the waistline to se- cure waiet. Buttonhole Spacing Mark the first and fst buttontote. Divide the re- Iialainig space among the remaining buttonholes needed, When spacing buttonholes, consider place Ing buttemhole as peat to the Ibust level a posible leravold gapping. This may require chmet at wider placement than desired, Button Placement Mark bution placemention the left aide corresportl- lay te Iaitteanlyolen rs Ue right, Center the space ‘belweon holes af the button or center of the shank: place em the center line of the garment. Diagenal Butenhelas ‘The rules slated previously apply. Make a copy of the bution and buttonhole placement as a guide for the butlonhole makerBUTTONS, BUTTONHOLES, AND FACINGS 345 Vertical Buttonhates Figure 1 These instructions apply to inset bands or the use of tiny buttons. Buttom placement is marked at the top of the buttonhole at the neck and at the lower end of the Last buttonhole, with the remaining but- tons centered. This button placement stabilizes the garment Woistbands and Cutts Figure 20, b Instructions for button and buttonholes apply. Figure Ja i Corer Center Figute 3b How te Determine Accurate Buttonhole Length 11 may be difficult ta determine the correct buttonhole Length for shank Lopels Figure 3. Mark button and buttonhole at a point where the lapel folds ower from the extension (breakpoint). Place remaining buttons and buttonholes using pre- rious information. Use the information provided for marking button/buttonholed sleeve cuffs. Figure 1 ‘Agu 3 tap Fontar balton tons; quarter-ball, half-ball, and full-ball buttons; and those buttons that are carved and decorated. Solitione Hefore placing the buttonhole on the garment, experiment on a piece of scrap fabric. Measure the di- ameter of the button from side to side. Mark the length of the diameter on the scrap fabric, sit the fabric, and push the button through. If too tight, slash more; if ton Ioose, slit another sample. When you hive the cae. rect length, set the buttonhole machine, or if self-made, mark the comect length. Remember that women’s wear garments are buttoned right over left, and men's-weor garments are buttoned left over right. Cotlecting Buttor sizes: Find buttons to fit the example sizes, Iabel them, and file for future reference.344 Chapter 16 [FACINGs Stitched Facings A stitched facing’s primary purpose is to conceal raw edges of seams for designs with cutout necklines, cutout anmboles, sleeveless garments, curved hem lines, and any styleline where raw edges must be covered. Fold-Back Facings Fold-back facings are not stitched to the garment but are part off the main pattern. Generally, the Fold. back facings Follow straight lines of the garment— hemline: of skirts, sleeves, jackets, pants, and cowls, ta name a few. ‘The following instructions apply only to neck- , shoulder, a“ armhole facings. Fold-back fac. re buttons and buttonholes ore ct hina. Fold-bock hemline of jackets, sleeves, pockets, collar, cuffs, yokes, inset hemnlines, and other self-faced sections are covered in the appropriate chapters, Facihys are planned 2s part of the plotting. They lite traced from the pattern betote of after the design Pattern hat been developed. Facing fot deeply cut- out neckliner or armiboles may be modified, with the ew! edge of the neck and armbole of the garment cased into: the facing fo- offset stretch of ter cause & schovet fi, Dit methonts are iBhasteated. Facing Types Feelings vary das width and shape but generally pre from | 1/2 ta 2 inches The hack facsng should be Fonger than the depth of the front neckline fr hanger sppeal, Separate facing. Individual facings for the neckline and armbabe, Combined facing, All-in-one facing for the neck- Hine and armhole. Separate Facings Figures 1.2 Facings are traced from the front and back pattem, The outer edge of the facing is trimmed 1 1é inch at the shoulder to zero at the shoulder tip and 1/8 inch. in from side to zero at the armhole. This eliminates: Jepseness and stretch. (Broken lime indicates arigi- nal pattern drom which the facing is traced.) Facings for Cut-Out NecHines and Armholes In the following series, front facings can also be modified to offset stretch of cut-out necklines and sleeveless garments. The edge of the garment’s cut- ‘out is eased into the modified facing for a closer fit. (Review contouring for guidance when facing mther than bodice is modi Figura | we Be sere Eng Mecktocng Wane i Figure 2 16 tice tacreg * g z é Lane\eCut Necklins Facing Figures 1.0.0 + Trace the back and front pattems. Draw cutout necklines and trim exces {indicated om broken ines). Redraw upper part of both patterns and. draw facings. Back: The depth of the back facing should exceed depth of the front neckline (improves hanger ap- peal). Cut the back facing from paper. +) Front: Mark about one thind up from center front neckline and draw a slash line. Mark notches, a5 shown, Trim 1/16 inch across shoulder. Cut fac- ing from paper. [Link] + Slash and overlap 3/8 inch and blend. + Retrace and blend. + Modify facing toolset stretch. © for back facing, see Figure 1 ScoopNeckling Facing Figures.3 tg 4 Aller tracing the pattern asia deawing a scoop neckline, trim exces, © Rolrace the w; ‘of the pattern and draw facing: mark inh Eneand Rother (uhaded area shower im Cf, 6 Shab, overlap it" and blend (gp + For back facing, see Figure 1 Cut-Out Armhole Facing Figures 4 nt After tracing the pattem and deawing the arm. hole, trim excess, 4 Retrsce upper part of the pattem and draw fsc- ing; mark slath line and notches (shaded area, shawn in ch}. + Slush, overlap 4/8" and blend (i. + Troce back pattern and facing. a Figure 2 a hae iB ede: wom AR an: ca cy3468 Chapter 16 Combined Focings Figures 8.4 Figures 1,2 = Facings for garments with stylelines should be * Combined facings are traced from the front or developed before the bodice pattern is sepa- back patterns; trimmed 1/8 inch at shouldes, mited. However, if the pattern has been sepa- neck, and sides; and blended to zero, as shown, rated, place style seamlines together and trace «To complete the back facing. the shoulder dart section being faced. is closed (broken linel; otherwise, it would be © * ‘Trim 1/8 inch at shoulder, neck, and side, with too bulky, line blended to [Link] shown. (Insert twill tape | Facing length at center back varies according to alec asec bbe bo ele ieee ete) depth of the front neck bleasarements given ° Repeat for back (not illustrated). (Eroken lines in- may be used for the basic neckline. dicate original pattern.) FONTAN Cran woe [[SELF-EVALUATION TEST in the blanks, Check your anwwer on page KS, 1. LinesTigne refers to burton - 2. Buttonhole sizes determined by the buton’s . 3. A (acing’s primary purpone is 4. Treo facing types are and ; 5. Contour facing applies only to and 6. are traced belore separating uylelines ending in armhole and mecLlines, 7. Anall-inone facing B. Wire loop, metal, plastic at the underside is a button. 5. Butlonhotes stast inch into area of the extension. 10, Vertical butiomholes are generally marked on 2 boeing.Plackets and Pockets370 Chapter 17 [[PLACKETS P Plackets are finished slits or faced openings dexigned. on all types of garments bodice, sleewe, skirt, dress, jacket, pant, and sa forth. Plckets can be of any length and width, with blunt, pointed, reunded, or stylized ends. Some plackets have buttons and but- tomboles; others do not. When designed for neck- ime openings, the placket can end at the neck edge or be extended beyond the neck and become part of the collar. The measurement can be varied to create lafferent effects. For shirt plackets, see Chapter 21. Pointed Placket with Facing-in-One Dosign Anatysis ‘The pointed placket of Design 1 ia set into a cutout section af the bodice. (The collar is not illustrated! ie the pattern plot.) Fop-stitching finishes the placket, Detign 2 is included tor practice. Pattern Plot and! Manipulation Faure + Fold the paper «Place the center front on fold and tace_ Plan Pfacket ALB = placket length (example: B inchesh B.C =1inch CDs inch ® Square lines 3/4 inch from B and'C Label Eand F. © Draw a line from F te the neck, parallel to cen- ter front. © Connect point Fwith D. Flan Facing for Packet © Draw the facing 2 inches from shoulder at neck, encling 3/4 inch from E. Connect the facing with E (inicated by broken lined. © Trave the placket and facing to underneath side, Figue | p>PLACKETS ANDIPOCKETS 371 Figure 2 Figure 4 Pocket tor Rignt Soe + Unfold and pencilin porated ine foken ine]. + Fold the paper along placket edge. + Place paper undemeath pattern and trace the ‘the feld at neck, tonching enter Ene Bean placket and facing for the right side of garment line indicate: original neck) Trace the placket (chaded area). only (shaded area}. Omit facing section. Unfold 5 js ane! pene ina perforated line. (The Bisbee pat. emave paper and pencil in the perforated Line. SE eae Figure 4 Paper z & Figure 3 Fauie 5 Pocket tor Len sso + Repeal for the other side, tracing placket acrorsat = Repoat for Lhe other tide, evel With point B (shaded agra), Note that the PARE AM The placket as ot inched. + Hemave the paper and pencil in a petforated line, Figuea372 Chapter 17 Figures 6,7 Piocket +) Add seams and label “Right-sideaup." The shaded area indicates facing side of the placket. Figure 6 Bodice Section «Add seams, notches, and graintine. © Cut hom the paper, wimming excess from locket inset area, and unfold. Cut basic back to complete the design. Figuea Wing Collar Placket Design Anetysin Design f features an [Link]-one placket and collar set into a cut-out opening in front, The placket is con. nected halfway, ending at the [Link] loca. tion, The seam allowance is indicated because of ite unique feature. Design 2 is inchaded for practice, Figure &PLACKETS ANDIPOCKETS 373 Pattern Plot ond Manipulation Pgure 2 Figure 1 © Finish the placket with 1/Linch seam allowance. Trace front pattern on lef side of the paper. Notch. Cut four pieces, self-faced tplacket joined from € ta B). ALB = plocket length (example: 10 inches}. A-C= depth of opening (example: 6 inches} depth of opening, (examp 7 mele ALE = 11/2 incher ormome. + Drawa curved line from E to F and EF to C. Blend. ILD = 1 V/? inches, squared from B. Conmect a slightly curved line bom D to E. 4 Milace paper undemeath and trace the placket (B, D, FE, © to Bl. Remowe paper and pencil in a perforated Tine. Fue Figuis 3 Bodice «Fold paper at center front. Add wam allowance 41/4 lich where the placket is attached), Cut tenn the papet, trimming excess front the placket Invert area, + Git the basic back to complete the design, Figgas 3 Pope BOOICE FRONT374 Chapter 17 Sit Opening with Placket Design Anatysis Market band of Design 1 is attached to aslit on one side of the garment, and three spaghetti loops ancl Buttons ate ised fot closure, Design 2b for practice, Pattern Plot ond Manipulation: Figure} + Trace and cut a full frent, 4 Drwwoan felch parallel Line dor the allt, 2 inches ‘out from comer Hine. « Draw another line 1/16 inch from the elit line, (Space Is needed for the width of the pemell lead when tnicing the pattern on the paper of Fabric, oe when making a marker) Cut the ait line ard eremanatch end, Label A and B. Mark for loops, ‘Draw facing 1 1/2 inches wide (indicated by bro- ‘ken lines}, © Tromaler facing by placing the paper under the pattern (hraken line area}. + Hemave the pattem. Pencil in bacing. Figure 2 CompisteaiFacings: Facing can be separated, as ilusteated, or developed as one-piece facing. Figure 8 Phocket Extension Borncd Draw a Line twice the length of the alit (example: 16 inches). © Draw a parallel line equal to the desired width fexample: 11/2 inches}. Label C and D and mid-point E Band is self. faced. To stitch, fold the band at point E, with points C and D touching. Stitch across the top and on one side at band. The mw edge of the band stitches to the B side of the slit on the gar- ment. (The band is the underlay to conceal the opening and for button attachment.) The Excing is then attached to the garment, concealing all raw edges around the neck and slit. Draw the grainline. Figure 1 Fou a Figure 2 ¢ HACINGS AB E Fold up tes facing side priya[POCKETS PLACKETS ANDIPOCKETS 375 A pocket is a cavity o pouch that fis a closed end and is usually sewn into or onta a garment. It can be a decorative feature, a functional feature, or both. [ts primary use is as a depository of temporary holding place for items or hands. A pocket opening should be wide enough for hands and deep enough to keep objects from falling out, Pockets are designed for all types of garments, ocket size, shape, and placement should comple ment the design of the garment. Pocket Classification Outside Pockets Pockets such as the patch pocket are attached to the outside of a gatment. This type of pocket can be de- signed in a number of size and shapes, with of without a flap. LIU Oo Ingorled Pockets Pockets are inverted int 3 straight or stylised seam, ‘INH the cavity oF pouch on the inside of the war- ment. Inverted pockets can alio be stitched ta the line tide of a garment, giving the appearance of a patch pocket on the right side of the garment. Watt Pockets ‘Well pockets are characterized by a separate strip or flap stitched to the pocket opening, with the pach falling to the insideof the gamment, The pockets can, havea double welt orsingle web, or they can be styl. ized with of without flaps, > ceo Patch Pocket Draw the pocket design on the shirt pattern. Mark the location of the pocket by chalk, or thread for in. dividual garments, For maxe-produced garments, in- dustry tses a drill to bum a hole in the fabric. To ‘cover the damage in the fabric, the punch/cinde ayinbols are marked 1/Binch in from the comers of the drawn pocket. Basic Uniined Pocket Pure Fold the paper and draft half the packet. Add seams of 1/2 inch and 1 1/4 inches at the opening. Cut fom the paper, Cut im fabric and stitch to the gar- ment, Sewing instruction follows,37 Chapter 17 Sewing Insruction, Pocket and Aap in-One Figure 2 Figure 5 Fold the hem to theilace side of the pocket and stitch Trace pocket on the fold. Optioex: The pocket flap the ends. Turn the seam and stitch the pocket hem. may be faced by tracing (shaded area}. The pocket ‘can also be cut twice (self-faced). I" Figquez Figure 5 Cita Selfing the Pockel Figure 3 Fold and press the 1/2anch srarms. Place the pocket om ihe garment, covering the marks. The pocket should be patallel with the centet frart. Piocemert mart Figue 3 Pockel with Separate Flap * ques “The basic pocket with a separate Map iv illustrates, Follow the sewing inatructionn givens in Figures 2, 3, arid d, Soe the flajpanstiuction on page 381 ae Figrod under proved Figure @ Flack Lack and continue stitching around the pocket, ruling with » back tack. Placement mart Bock tack Pst 4Inserted Seam Pocket The entry is an angle ine in from the side waist. To complete the pant, sex Chapter 26, and for the skict, see Chapter 13. Entry/Pockel Pouch Figutes 10, ‘Trace the upper part of the pattern and draw the Pocket shape (Figute Ta). Trace tee exrpies, 4 Draw the pocket entty on one cupy of the pouch Tricket (Figure Ibi. 4 CA from the paper. Trim entry. Faure te PLACKETS ANDIPOCKETS 377 Entry Facing Pgures 20.0.¢ «Trace and draw the pocket facing (shaded area, Figure 2a}. * Add 1/inch seams to the pocket pouch and 1/4 inch at entry. Label. * Cut from the paper and trace the facing pattem (Figures 2b and Zc}. Label. Figure Za Fouwe®> 9 Rguede fi POCKET u uNNG | Pockel Bocking/Focing Pquies 30.5, ® Draw the facing for the backing (shaded area) (Figure 3a, © Addl 1/2-lnch seams to the backing pocket, © Cut pocket (ram paper and trace the back facing (Figures 3b and Sch. Lael. unite Fqure kc (] Pocest BACKING. =a __ 3aPocket Backing—tining Patten: Figures 10. + The side waist is Labeled X. + Draw the pant pocket indicated by the measures ments from point X (Figure La). 8 Trace the pocket. Add 1/Zinch seams (Figure 1b]. Pocket Backing—Focing Pattom Figures 2a bc Draw thee Lacing pattern 2 inchew up trom the Hn. ing (Figure 2. Tusidhe Povkiet Draw tlhe inuide pocket uaing the measurements given. (The pocket ends at the facing hemline.) Mark punch/eirdes 1/8 inch in from each enener, Trace the facing. Add [/2inch scams (Figure 2h), Trace the inside packet, Add 1/Zinch seams (Figure 2c}. Jean Pocket Design Analysis The pocket can be drafted from the waistline or from a lowered waistline. ‘The style is but one of a number of packet vari- ations, The small inside pocket is an option. Chang- ing the style of the pocket will not affect the instruction. The same pocket can be drafted with an ab omen of a pleat support. Refer lo Chapter 25. Figure 1aPocket Eniry—Facing Pattem Figures 30, + Draw the shape off the pocket entry using mea surements from point X (Figure 3a). 4 Troce the pocket entry. Add 1/2inch seams and Va inch at entry (Figure 3b1_ ‘The pant patter is trimamed to the entry shape. Add 1/4 inch at entry and 1/2 inch to the remain. ing patterns. Pocketin-One with the Side Seam Design Anatysit The pocket is drafted from a straight side sam oF slyleline oft any gatinent (a flace shirt is illunttated]. Figure 1 + Trace the pattoens, + Draw the front pocket, Fold the paper and trace, + Unfold and outline the traced packet, + Mark 11/2 and 6 inches down from the waist Aebity space), snd 1/8 isch Heo the fall lise, + Trave the from pocket to the hack pattern, Add 12dnch seams and cut from the fabric, Fgue | BACK ss. aaa} que? Sewing Guide Pits the right nide of the falvies together Stlich the shde seasme and pockets together, Sulich down and up trom each mark to evtablish the pocket entry, oiled (Jae promot tan ther fieatet wean attel atiteh, gue?380 Chapter 17 Accordion Pocket The pocket looks like the bellows of an accordion. [t is a utility pocket for military and imdustrial garments. The pocket has now become a fashion detail for sportswear such a3 pants, jackets, coats, and tailored dresses. Figure? The pocket’s width and length should be in perfect balance with the design of the garment. + Diaw the pocket tectangle 6% § inches. Mark commer A. 4+ Meals desired: 2 pleats fot mote). (Eepth of each pleat 34 inch, plus the underlay of 3/4 inch female 1 1/2 inches.) Af © 3 inches (toe pleats), Squate from A ad pp front Bi, Repeat on other sick ‘Acti ell, quated down from A, squate aerost, Figue | " Pgure 2 E-D = 3/4 inch (pleat depth). CE=B0 © Square lines in from DD and wp from E. and mark F. * Divide D to F and C to F into fourths [indicated by the broken fines). © Number each section as illustrated. © Draw connecting lines from 1 to 2 to 3 tod tn F Repeat the process on the other side of the pocket, Figure? Figuie 3 Draw the pocket flap $ = 2 inches. Add seams, [nter. face the pocket flap. Figure 3Figure 4 | Add seam allowance. + Teim the unneeded part of the zigrag + Cut the pocket and flap in fabcir. Interface the pocket fap. Stitching Guise Figure 5 Tutt the fate: wtong-sickecowt. Turn hem Li inh and stitch, Figure 6 «thing Cb ch, ending ath Clip and repeat, mitching en the other side, Tuen the fabric ta the rghit wide, Fgque 5 Fagan & Hem Wa" i ether srs Sena" PLACKETS ANDIPOCKETS «381 Figures 70.5 ©) Edgesstitch each pleat. * Fold the pleats in place and press together. © Place the pocket om the garment and fold the seam allowance under. Edge-stitch the pocket to the garment (Figure 7a). ‘To secure the pleats, foldback the first pleat and stitch the remaining pleats to the garment (Figure 7b). Regus 7b Figae7a Paqute B Pockot Flap + lave rhtht sides togetthey—stetch ated thee thaht. sidocut. Prose and topnatiteh. Cwerlack of serge the rave eye. Plave the pocket flap 1/2 inch aboww the pocket and atiteh perom, Anglestich at each end te tecure, Figure Crow stitch382 Chapter 17 Stylized Outside Pocket ‘Outside pockets can be of any design. They ore stitched fit on top of the garment. Lift-Aweary Figure 1 Aland is witched around thtee sides of the pocket fexcluding entry A lhocKle in attached to a Belt (self co Teather) A belt is stitched to garment. Pocket Figure 2 Draw pocket width and length, at desires, Allow inet for hem a4 the bength end Figures 3a. b,c. Thanding Teregtt: Equals 3 sides of the pocket, Thanding width; 1 inch (oa mare) (Figure 3a), Hackebett: Huckle controls the width and length of the closure (Figure Sb}, Mackie Iwld secures the buckle (Figure 3c), ix stitched lathe bel (Figure Bah. Sewing guide: The topaf the belt is stitched to garment, Clasure: Velcro (attached to pocket and belt}. Figure 32 Wa" Pocket bancing See Pgures 10.0 © Trace the garment and draw the pocket. Trace the pocket. Draw and trace the Bacing and interfacing patterns. Notch 1 inch (X). = Add 1/2inch seams, 1/4 inch at entry. Stitch Facing to pocket. Fold seams and press. Stitch the pocket to the garment and stitch to X. Figue Io Fquee tte fucttePLACKETS ANDIPOCKETS 383 Pocket with Hidden Side Seam POU 2D aad titih Design Anciysis Magica The curveof thesideseamisstraightenedtodevelop zi ay this style of pocket. The extra fullness can be gath- ‘ine fro the pocket Figure Zon ze fred of taken up by folded pleats rontand Fock). | st. Jeenaining, pocket “Pocket Backing” Entry at side sear (Figure 2c}. Add 1/2-inch seams. Figuie 30 em ‘Le Figure 1 + Draw a line up from the outetmost curve of the front hip to waist level. ques + Mark notches 1 inches and 6 inches down ftom + Draw a line up from the outerment curve nf the altle waist, Label X fentryh back hip to-waitt level. 4 Draw a pockel pouch T inch down from X using © Increase each dant equally to take up the extra ‘the meaurements given. Fiallivess,(Tlsokets lirve os the original art.) «Trace two copice of the pocket. ‘Tagie Une Jinch patel (Al to the sie seam of the back pattern. Add 1/2uinch seama =" Figg 3 ue Parel attached taside seam BACK Sewing guide: Stitch the pocket backing (B} to the panel (A), Stitch the facing to the front Fant entry. Pin the drant and back side sears together and stitch (hack stitch) 1 inch down from the side waist, Stitch (back stitch} down from X. Sew the packet together.