VitaCE 990
1. Introduction
2. Characteristics
3. Effect
4. Safety data
5. Comparison VitaCE 990 & J
6. Skin Penetration
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1. Name
INCI Name: Ethyl ascorbic acid
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbyl Ether
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Vitamin C Ethyl
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2. Structure
OH
O O
OH
Molecular formula : C8H12O6 O
OH
CAS No.: 86404-04-8
Molecular weight : 204.18
Vitamin-C content : 86.3 %
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3. ICID
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3. ICID
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4. Stability
Conventional Vitamin C is easily oxidized and destroyed by heat, air,
light, etc. Especially, when it is mixed with other cosmetics which
needs to be stored long time. Vitamin C usually causes the problem
of color change in cosmetic products.
In the other hand, Vitamin C ethyl is free from the those unstabilities.
Vitamin C Ethyl is stable because it is metabolized as pure vitamin c
in the living body.
This vitamin Ethyl C is stable whereas conventional vitamin C has a
weakness that it is expedited to be oxidized in a normal subacid.
In the structure of Vitamin C, Vitamin C Ethyl replaces Ethoxy group
in the 3rd place which has strong acid. Vitamin C Ethyl is protected
from the metal ion. As a result it doesn't change in its color and has
nor abnormal reaction.
2001 : permitted as a whitening functional material from Korea Food and Drug Administration
2003 : permitted as a QUASI-DRUGS from JFDA
Stabilized L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C).
white, odorless, crystallized powder
Similar effect with L-ascorbic acid
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Whitening
Synthesis of Collagen
Good Penetration
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1-1. Whitening
Decrease the formation of Melanocyte
Excellent anti-ageing effect-Recover from:
- Sun-damage
- Discoloration
- Dark spots
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1-2. Whitening Effect (Cell Test)
120
100
Melanocyte (%)
80
Vita CE 990
60 VC-PMG
AA2G
SAP
40
0 0.005 0.01
Content (W %) 0.015 0.02
Fig.1 Whitening Test by Melanocyte
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1-3. Whitening Effect (Photograph)
VC-PMG
VitaCE 990
Before 2 weeks later 6 weeks later
Fig. 3 Whitening Test ( Using 0.7 MED UV Ray)
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1-4. Whitening Effect (Chromameter Test)
Fig.2 Whitening Test ( In Vivo) by Chromameter CR-300
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Improvement effect of pigmented skin
used 0.5%, 1%, 2% of Vita CE 990 for 3months
(a) Before (a) Before (a) Before
(b) After(0.5%) (b) After(1%) (b) After(2%)
12% reduction in melanin area 22% reduction in melanin area 89% reduction in melanin area
Effect of whitening on melanin
pigmentation inhibition
1-5. Comparision Whitening effect with other Vitamin C Derivatives
Rate of inhibition of UV-
Sample introduced
Tested substance
concentration(%)
melanization of DHICA(%)
Ascorbic acid
0.1 70
(vitamin-C)
VC – PMG 0.1 20
AA - 2G 0.1 20
Ethly ascorbyl ether 0.1 80
Ethly ascorbyl ether 0.01 40
• VC-PMG : Magnesium-L-Ascorbly-2-Phosphate
• AA-2G : Ascorbate-2-O-Glucoside
2-1. Formation & Synthesis of Collagen
Helps Collagen synthesis
Recover damaged Collagen
Reduces the Copper Ion of Tyrosinase
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2-4. Formation & Synthesis of Collagen
Fig. 5 Cell Toxicity Test by 10% FBS Environment
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2-5. Formation & Synthesis of Collagen
Fig. 6 Cell Toxicity Test by 4% FBS Environment)
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2-6. Delivery of Vitamin C to skin
Low Molecular Weight
Good Water solubility (L-ascorbic acid)
- Ether bonding
Table 1. Comparison by Vitamin-C Derivative
Item Formula M/W V-C Contents
VC-PMG C6H8O9P3/2Mg 303.5 62.0
AA2G C12H18O11 362 51.9
SAP C6H6O9P3Na 334 56.3
VitaCE 990 C8H12O6 204.2 86.3
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1. STABILITY by pH
100
80
In Aq.
Content (%)
60 In pH4.0
In pH6.0
In pH8.0
40
20
0
0 20 40 60 80 100
Days
Fig. 7 Stability by Buffer solution (40℃ for 90 days)
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2. Stability in formulation
Table 2. Test Condition
Skin, Essence in Incubator (40℃),
Storage environment :
Cream to room temperature
Column (X-Terra15cm), Eluant (Buffer),
Analysis Flow rate (0.8mL/min),
environment : Detector (UV 245nm), Temperature(20℃),
Pressure(1,650-1,750 psi)
Period of Analysis : 90 days (per 1 month)
Test Item : Skin, Essence, Cream
Analysis samples : 2 types per 1 item and 3 samples of each type
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(a) TYPE-I (a) TYPE-II
2.4 2.4
2.2 2.2
2.0 2.0
Concentration (%)
Concentration (%)
1.8
Skin
1.8
Skin Essence
Essence Cream
1.6 1.6
Cream
1.4 1.4
1.2 1.2
1.0 1.0
0 20 40 60 80 100 0 20 40 60 80 100
Days Days
Fig. 8 Change of VitaCE 990 as Time goes on
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6-2. Skin Penetration of a Cream
containing VitaCE 990
6-4. Comparision the contained quantity
of Nano emulsion absorbed PBS Bufffer
VitiCE 990(㎎/㎠) 0.5
0.4
0.3
0.2
Raw Material (VitaCE 990)
Homogenized Emulsion
Nano Emulsion
0.1
0
3hr 6hr 9hr 12hr 24hr
Hour (hr)
