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 European
Cruises
& Ports of Call
3rd Edition

by Fran Wenograd Golden

& Jerry Brown

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
 European
Cruises
& Ports of Call
3rd Edition

by Fran Wenograd Golden

& Jerry Brown

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
Published by:

Wiley Publishing, Inc.

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Copyright  2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights
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trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the
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any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 0-7645-4290-7
Editor: Risa R. Weinreb
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Manufactured in the United States of America
5 4 3 2 1
 Contents
List of Maps vi

Introduction 1

Frommer’s Favorites 6
1 Best Ships for Luxury . . . . . . . . .6 8 Best Ships for Pampering . . . . . .7
2 Best Mainstream Ships . . . . . . . .6 9 Best Ships for Entertainment . . . .8
3 Best Small Alternative Ships . . . .6 10 Best Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
4 Best Ships for Families . . . . . . . .6 11 Best Itinerary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
5 Best European Ships . . . . . . . . . .7 12 Best Adventure Itineraries . . . . . .9
6 Most Romantic Ships . . . . . . . . .7 13 Best Ports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
7 Best Value . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 14 Best Shore Excursions . . . . . . . .10

Part 1: Planning, Booking & Preparing

for Your Cruise
1 Choosing Your Ideal Cruise 13
1 The European Cruise Season . . .13 4 Matching the Cruise
2 European Cruise Itineraries . . . .14 to Your Needs . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
3 Choosing Your Ship . . . . . . . . .17 Family Cruising Tips . . . . . . . . .21
Leading Websites for Cruise
Planning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

2 Booking Your Cruise & Getting the Best Price 25

1 The Scoop on Cruise Fares . . . .25 5 Choosing Your Dining
2 Extra Costs to Consider . . . . . . .28 Options . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
6 Deposits & Cancellation
What’s Not Included in Your
Policies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Cruise Fare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
7 Your Cruise Documents . . . . . . .39
3 Booking Through a
Travel Agent . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 8 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .39
4 Choosing Your Cabin . . . . . . . .34

3 Things to Know Before You Go 41

1 Passports & Visas . . . . . . . . . . .41 3 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . .46
2 Money Matters . . . . . . . . . . . .42 4 Packing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
iv CONTENTS

4 The Cruise Experience 49

1 Getting Started: Checking In & 5 An Introduction to Shipboard
Boarding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59
What Happens if Your Bags 6 Onboard Shopping
Get Lost? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52 Opportunities . . . . . . . . . . . . . .60
2 An Introduction to Onboard 7 Sundry Shipboard Services &
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 Facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
3 An Introduction to Onboard 8 Wrapping Up Your Cruise—
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Debarkation Concerns . . . . . . .62
4 Shipboard Gyms & Spas . . . . . .57

Part 2: The Cruise Lines & Their Ships

About the Ratings 69

5 The American Mainstream Lines 71

1 Celebrity Cruises . . . . . . . . . . .72 4 Oceania Cruises . . . . . . . . . . . .99
2 Holland America Line . . . . . . . .81 5 Orient Lines . . . . . . . . . . . . .105
Preview: Westerdam . . . . . . . . .91 6 Princess Cruises . . . . . . . . . .110
3 Norwegian Cruise Line . . . . . . .92 7 Royal Caribbean
International . . . . . . . . . . . . .120

6 The European Lines 127

A Word About SOLAS . . . . . . .128 3 Norwegian Coastal Voyage . . .153
1 Costa Cruises . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 Norwegian Coastal’s Older Ships:
Preview: Costa Fortuna & A Retro Coastal Adventure . . .154
Costa Magica . . . . . . . . . . . . .143 4 Royal Olympia . . . . . . . . . . . .160
2 First European Cruises 5 Swan Hellenic Cruises . . . . . . .171
(Festival Cruises) . . . . . . . . . .145

7 The Luxury & Ultra-Luxury Lines 178

Freebies for the Ultra- 3 Radisson Seven Seas Cruises . . .202
Luxury Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179 4 Seabourn Cruise Line . . . . . . .209
1 Crystal Cruises . . . . . . . . . . . .180 5 SeaDream Yacht Club . . . . . . .217
2 Cunard Line . . . . . . . . . . . . .191 6 Silversea Cruises . . . . . . . . . .223
Preview: Queen Mary 2 . . . . .200 7 Windstar Cruises . . . . . . . . . .231

8 The Alternative Lines 239

1 Clipper Cruise Line . . . . . . . . .240 3 Star Clippers . . . . . . . . . . . . .249
2 Lindblad Expeditions . . . . . . . .245
 CONTENTS v

9 River Cruises 257

Part 3: Ports of Call

10 The Port Experience: An Introduction 265
1 Debarkation in Port . . . . . . . .265 2 Shore Excursions . . . . . . . . . .267
Currency Conversion Chart . . .266 3 Touring the Ports
on Your Own . . . . . . . . . . . . .268

11 Mediterranean Ports of Call 269

1 Croatia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269 5 Malta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .302
2 The French Riviera & 6 Portugal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .305
Monte Carlo . . . . . . . . . . . . .272 7 Spain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .309
3 Greece . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .277 Gibraltar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .320
4 Italy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .289 8 Turkey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .321
Portofino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .301

12 Ports of Call in Northern Europe & the British Isles 328

1 Belgium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .328 8 Ireland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .355
2 Denmark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .332 9 The Netherlands (Holland) . . . .364
3 England . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .337 The Ladies of the Night . . . . . .368
Remembering Diana . . . . . . . .341 10 Norway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .372
4 Estonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .342 11 Russia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .380
5 Finland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .345 Important Visa Information . . .382
6 France . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .348 12 Scotland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .384
7 Germany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .350 13 Sweden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .387
Alster Lake Boat Tour . . . . . . .352

Index 392
 List of Maps

Europe 2 Antwerp 329

Dubrovnik, Old Town 271 Copenhagen 333
Athens 278 Central London 338
The Greek Isles 282 Tallinn, Estonia 343
Hora (Mykonos Town) 283 Helsinki 347
Rhodes Town 286 Le Havre Area 349
Santorini 289 Northern Germany 353
Rome 292 County Cork 357
Sorrento 294 Dublin 360
Venice 298 Central Amsterdam 366
Valletta 304 Rotterdam 371
Lisbon 307 Norway 375
Barcelona 310 Oslo 378
Cádiz/Málaga Region 315 St. Petersburg 381
Mallorca 319 Edinburgh 386
Old Istanbul 323 Stockholm 389
Ku@adasi/Ephesus Region 327
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About the Authors
Fran Wenograd Golden is travel editor of the Boston Herald, author of Cruise Vacations
For Dummies, coauthor of Frommer’s Alaska Cruises & Ports of Call (with Jerry), and
author of TVacations: A Fun Guide to the Sites, the Stars and the Inside Stories Behind Your
Favorite TV Shows. She lives north of Boston with her husband, Ed, and two teenagers,
Erin and Eli, who love traveling and join her on the road (and on the high seas) when-
ever school and job commitments permit.
Jerry Brown was born in Edinburgh, Scotland, and worked on Scottish newspapers and
then in the news department of the London Daily Mail. Later, for 31 years, he was the
West Coast bureau chief of a leading travel trade publication, and he’s the other coauthor
(with Fran) of Frommer’s Alaska Cruises & Ports of Call. He and Margaret, his wife and
best editor, have two grown sons, Mark and Paul, and as a family unit and individually
they have sailed the waters of Europe on numerous occasions. Jerry is the proud grand-
father of Victoria Rose, whom he hopes someday to introduce to the joys of a European
cruise vacation.

Acknowledgments
The authors wish to acknowledge the assistance of the following writers: Carolyn Spencer
Brown, Ed Golden, Marisa Guthrie, Matt Hannafin, Art Sbarsky, and Theodore W. Scull,
and to thank our wonderful editor, Risa R. Weinreb, for all her efforts.
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s European Cruises & Ports of Call, 3rd Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-
tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip:

Frommer’s England
Frommer’s Europe
Frommer’s France
Frommer’s Germany
Frommer’s Greece
Frommer’s Greek Islands
Frommer’s Ireland
Frommer’s Italy
Frommer’s Portugal
Frommer’s Scandinavia
Frommer’s Scotland
Frommer’s Spain
and other great city, regional, and budget guides

Other Great Frommer’s Cruise Guides:

Frommer’s Alaska Cruises & Ports of Call
Frommer’s Caribbean Cruises & Ports of Call
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (rec-
ommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use eight feature icons that point you to
the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun

Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

Warning Warning—traveler’s advisories are usually in effect

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
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 Introduction
Fmore
ran first cruised in Europe—or
exactly, to Europe—in 1959
Whether you are a first-time visitor
to the region or are returning to see
when she was 3 years old and her countries you’ve visited before from a
mother, brother, and she traveled new oceanview perspective (many
transatlantic from New York to European cities were built to be seen
Southampton on the old United from the sea) and at a different pace,
States. She remembers nothing of the cruising in Europe can be wonderful.
trip by sea, but obviously something The ports in Europe hold treasures
stuck because she loves to visit Europe, of antiquities and natural beauty, fas-
loves to cruise, and finds it great fun cinating history (you’ll quickly realize
to combine the two. She explores how young 1776 is in the scheme
Europe’s waters as often as she can, of things), and enchanting cultural
usually in the company of friends experiences.
(both American and European) or her From your ship, depending on the
family (her teenagers and husband route you choose, you will have easy
fight over who gets to go along). access to such delights as the ancient
Although he was born and raised in cities of Pompeii and Ephesus; Europe’s
Europe (in Scotland), Jerry didn’t historic and cultural capitals, includ-
cruise the region until much later than ing London, Paris, and Rome; modern
Fran, in 1984, on the Pacific Princess port cities; gorgeous islands; scenic
(now retired from Princess Cruises’ fjords; rugged coastlines; and glam-
fleet). The cruise still evokes happy orous resorts.
memories and laughter in the Brown You can visit museums, cathedrals,
household. The cabin steward palaces, and monuments and learn
delighted and amused Jerry’s sons about the region’s history. Or you can
(then ages 14 and 9) by deliberately concentrate on the Europe of today,
exaggerating his Cockney accent to checking out the trends in food and
make himself virtually unintelligible fashion before they hit the shores of
to them. And there is, in the Brown the U.S.
family album, a classic photograph of
Jerry’s sons on that cruise looking WHY A CRUISE?
utterly bored among the ruins of Pom- Europe is a popular cruising region,
peii. (Remember that if you’re drag- second only to the Caribbean (and fol-
ging teens to sites of ancient lowed by Alaska in third place), and
civilizations. Take them, by all means. it’s a no-brainer to see why. The region
Just don’t be surprised if they pretend truly offers something for everyone:
not to be enjoying it!) The kids, now great sights, shopping, beaches, muse-
grown, agree that cruising Europe is ums, cultural and natural attractions,
by and large a joy, and the Browns and a decent climate.
individually and as a group have The ports are close together, mean-
cruised to and in Europe umpteen ing you can visit several in a limited
times since. period of time; the seas relatively calm;
Europe
No r we g i a n
Se a

N O RT H
Bergen
AT L A N T I C
N O RWAY
OCEAN
GRAMPIAN
Aberdeen
TAYSIDE No r t h
Perth Se a
Edinburgh
Belfast
DENMARK
IRELAND
DINGLE Dublin
PENINSULA KERRY Liverpool
COUNTY

U.K.
THE
TH
COTSWOL Oxford N E T H ER
NET E R L AN
ANDS
Bath Hamburg
DS

Stonehenge London Amsterdam

Salisbury
Bruges
B E LG I U M GERMANY Leipzig
En g l i s h C h a n n e l Bonn
Brussels
Liège
Le Havre Frankfurt
LU X .
Rothenburg
Paris ob der Tauber
L OIR Strasbourg Augsburg
E VA L L E Y Munich
BAVARIAN ALPS
Bern
FRANCE Innsbruck
Ba y o f Bi s c a y SWITZERLAND
Geneva BERNER
Bordeaux OBERLAND

Milan

Bilbao Arles PROVENCE

M O N ACO
Florence
Porto Marseille Nice
ur
’Az TUSCANY
ANDORRA ted
C ô
P O RT U G A L Madrid
Barcelona
CORSICA
Lisbon
S PA I N
Córdoba
ALGARVE Valencia
SARDINIA
Seville
ANDALUSIA Cagliari
Granada
Malaga Mediterranean S
Costa del So ea
l

0 150 mi
N
0 150 km

2
 SWEDEN
Trondheim FINLAND
Sundsvall Gu l f
of Tampere
Bothnia Helsinki
Gavle St. Petersburg
Oslo

Tallinn RU S S I A
Stockholm E S TO N I A
Moscow

Riga
Göteborg
L AT V I A

Ba l t i c
Copenhagen L I T H UA N I A
Sea
RU S S I A Vilnius
Kaliningrad Minsk
Gdansk
B E L A RU S
Berlin Poznan
Warsaw

g POLAND Kiev
Karlovy Vary
(Carlsbad)
Prague Krakow
Lvov
UKRAINE
Da CZECH
nu
be REPUBLIC
Riv S LOVA K I A
e r Vienna
Bratislava
KITZBÜHEL ALPS M O L D OVA
DANUBE
Salzburg VALLEY Budapest Chisinau Odessa
AU S T R I A H U N G A RY Cluj-Napoca
Lake
Ljubljana Balaton
Zagreb RO M A N I A
S LOV E N I A
C ROAT I A
Venice Belgrade Constanta Bl a c k
BOSNIA Bucharest Se a
AND Sarajevo Varna
SERBIA
HERZEGOVINA
AND B U LG A R I A
Ad r i a t i c M O N T E N E G RO Sofiya
I TA LY Se a Skopje
Rome Podgorica THE FORMER Istanbul
Tirana YUGOSLAV REPUBLIC
OF MACEDONIA
Naples
Pompeii ALBANIA T U R K EY
Ty r rh e n i a n GREECE Ae g e a n
Se a Delphi
Sea
Io n i a n
Se a Athens CYCLADES
Palermo
SICILY PELOPONNESE CYPRUS

Mediterranean Sea CRETE

MALTA

3
4 INTRODUCTION

the opportunities interesting and Cruise Line, and Celebrity—were

diverse. Europe has a seafaring tradi- steadily increasing their presence in
tion that goes back to ancient times— Europe. Then came the tragic events
you can even choose an itinerary that of September 11, 2001. In the after-
follows the exact route of the ancient math, some travelers were hesitant to
mariners—so is it any wonder a Euro- go to Europe. Several ships slated for
pean cruise sounds so exciting and Europe itineraries were actually
romantic? moved to other markets like the
A cruise is also one of the most Caribbean and Alaska for the 2002
practical, comfortable, and economi- season. The War in Iraq also caused a
cal ways to see Europe. You only have few ships to move out of Europe in
to unpack once, your floating hotel 2003, but most lines stuck with their
takes you to different ports in different Europe itineraries. To get passengers
countries, and you don’t have to deal back, the lines offered steep discounts,
with the hassle and expense of getting and they got a decent response. There
around Europe by plane or train. is pent-up demand for Europe, and
On a cruise you are fed, pampered, cruise lines know this. They also know
and taken care of in a stress-free envi- Europe will be in the news in 2004,
ronment. You don’t have to worry especially with the summer Olympics
about currency fluctuations and their in Athens (several ships have been
effect on your hotel, entertainment, booked to provide floating hotel
and meal costs, because all of these are rooms for the event). The lines are
included in your cruise fare. Food committing significant numbers of
will be familiar—you can even sip a ships to Europe (Holland America for
piña colada while viewing, say, St. one has four ships in Europe in 2004),
Petersburg—and you don’t have to and depending on what’s happening
deal with language problems, because in the world, this could prove to be a
there will be personnel on the ship popular year for European cruising.
who speak English. Cruise passengers can choose from
A downside to cruising is that you all sorts of itinerary options in Europe
might not have as much time as you’d and there are a variety of ships to suit
like in port to experience the local cul- everyone’s tastes. The European cruis-
ture, although some lines overnight in ing season has expanded from April to
cities like Venice, Monte Carlo, and October to March to December; there
Istanbul, and smaller ships may are even winter cruises, mostly in the
overnight in smaller cities. The cruise warmer Mediterranean.
lines do their best, through their In 2002 (the latest year for which
organized shore excursions, to get pas- there are statistics), Europe repre-
sengers to the major sights. And if sented 21.1% of passenger cruise
you’d rather sit at a cafe and check out capacity (based on cruises marketed to
the local scene than do an organized North Americans) compared to
tour, you can head off on your own. 46.6% in the Caribbean. About half
We’ve found that when cruising in of the capacity was in the Mediter-
Europe, it’s best to think of your cruise ranean while the other half cruised
as a sampler package. If you fall in other parts of Europe (such as North-
love with a city, plan on visiting again ern Europe, Norway, and the Baltics).
later. Capacity was down 13.90% in 2002,
again, because some ships were pulled
EUROPEAN CRUISING 2004 for the 2002 season. (Numbers pro-
Cruise lines—including major Ameri- vided by Cruise Lines International
can lines like Princess, Holland Amer- Association.)
ica, Royal Caribbean, Norwegian
 INTRODUCTION 5

Because European cruises are so that light to spot whales and reindeer
popular—and to encourage even more rather than celebrities in their skimpy
business—North American cruise bikinis.
companies are putting some of their You can easily extend whatever itin-
most impressive ships in the market. erary you choose with a land stay,
For instance, Princess in 2004 has the which the cruise lines can arrange for
2,600-passenger Grand Princess and you, usually at reasonable rates, or
sister ship Star Princess, two of the which you can arrange on your own.
biggest ships in the world, spending The lines have also expanded into
the entire summer in Europe. Holland different cruise regions in Europe and
America introduces in Europe this introduced more 1-week options in
year its brand new 1,848-passenger addition to more traditional 10- and
Westerdam, and the HAL Europe fleet 12-day Europe itineraries. For
also includes the line’s flagship, Rotter- instance, several lines have 1-week
dam. Celebrity offers up the lovely Baltics itineraries.
Millennium, and those on European Cruising in Europe has been a
cruises will enjoy Royal Caribbean’s rather big-ticket item in the past, but
brand new Jewel of the Seas, as well as a flurry of discount offers have helped
the Brilliance of the Seas and Splendour bring prices down, and that trend is
of the Seas. Posh Silversea will have expected to continue in 2004, making
three ships in Europe this summer, cruising in Europe more affordable.
including its newer 388-passenger Sil- And while Europe has traditionally
ver Shadow and Silver Whisper. And drawn a senior crowd, the cruise lines,
Radisson Seven Seas will have two through shorter itineraries and a
ships in the market, including the all- greater diversity of product, have done
suite, all-balcony cabin, 700-passenger a good job of late in attracting fami-
Seven Seas Voyager. You can see Europe lies, younger couples, singles, and
on a giant floating American resort honeymooners.
ship with Las Vegas–style entertain-
ment, a lavish casino and spa, and a BON VOYAGE!
mostly American clientele; choose a Just the fact that you’ve bought this
ship that’s more like a floating Euro- book means you’ve got a hankering to
pean hotel where multiple languages cruise; now it’s our job to find the
will be spoken, Americans will be the cruise that’s just right for you from
minority, and meals will be a form of among the huge selection of ships and
entertainment; see the continent in cruise experiences in the market. In
posh luxury with the very best in serv- the following chapters, we’ll detail the
ice and cuisine; or pick a small, casual various and diverse itinerary options
ship where you can jump off a plat- in Europe and the types of ships that
form at the stern for a swim. can take you there. And we’ll give you
And you can choose itineraries as a taste of what you can expect from
diverse as the Rivieras, where the sun your European cruise experience.
shines on cafes and beaches in places Whichever cruise option you
like St-Tropez; or the Norwegian choose, we’re sure your European
fjords, where the midnight sun may cruise will leave you wanting to come
shine all day and night, but you’ll use back again for more.
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