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Faesleevespattern Crochet Sleeves Faire

This document provides a detailed crochet pattern for creating 'The Fae Sleeves' by Spirit and Thread Crochet, including materials needed, sizing options, and step-by-step instructions. The pattern emphasizes personal use only, requesting credit if the finished product is sold or promoted. It includes various stitch techniques and gauge recommendations to ensure proper fit and design.

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100% found this document useful (1 vote)
6K views29 pages

Faesleevespattern Crochet Sleeves Faire

This document provides a detailed crochet pattern for creating 'The Fae Sleeves' by Spirit and Thread Crochet, including materials needed, sizing options, and step-by-step instructions. The pattern emphasizes personal use only, requesting credit if the finished product is sold or promoted. It includes various stitch techniques and gauge recommendations to ensure proper fit and design.

Uploaded by

kgtkkrt2zs
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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INSTAGRAM:

@SPIRITANDTHREADCROCHET
FACEBOOK: SPIRIT AND THREAD
CROCHET

This pattern was created for personal use.


Please do not resell this pattern. If you make
these sleeves to sell or promote, please credit
me in your images. THANK YOU for
supporting a small, lady-owned business!

THE FAE SLEEVES


A crochet pattern by Spirit and Thread Crochet
Materials:
5.5mm crochet hook

Tapestry needle

Scissors

500-800 yards of size 4, worsted weight yarn (depending on sleeve type and length)

Stitch markers

Choose your size:


XS S M L
30A 30C 34D/DD 36DDD
30B 30D/DD 36C 38DD/DDD
32A 32C 36D/DD 40DD/DDD
32B 32D/DD 38B 42D/DD/DDD
34A 34B 38C
34C 38D
36A 40B
38A 40C
36B 40D

Much of this pattern is made to fit as you go, but if you have more questions about sizing feel free to send me an email
at [email protected].

When there are different stitch counts per size, they will be written as XS (S, M, L).

Gauge:
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND checking your gauge – I’ve been told I crochet tight!

14 SC by 17 rows is a 4-inch square, size 5.5mm hook

Stitches:
CH - chain

SC - single crochet

HDC - half double crochet

DC – double crochet

TC - triple crochet

TC2tog – triple crochet two together

V stitch – triple crochet, chain 1, triple crochet) in 1 stitch, skip next 2 stitches

SK – skip

SC2tog – single crochet two together

* * - indicates repeat
Bell Sleeve

With a 5.5mm hook, chain the width of your arm 2-3


inches above your elbow (blue arrow). End in a multiple
of 3.

For a size small, I chained 30. Slip stitch to first to


connect.

Round 1: CH1. SC around. Slip stitch into first stitch.

Round 2: CH4 (counts as first TC CH1). TC in first stitch.


*SK2, (TC CH1 TC) in next* around. Slip stitch into first
TC.

IF YOU ARE MAKING SLIP ON SLEEVES, repeat round 1


(SC in each CH and TC) and round 2 twice more each for
a total of 6 rows (ending on a TC row), and then
proceed to round 3 below. Default row counts will be
listed for the full shoulder version.

IF YOU ARE MAKING FULL SHOULDER SLEEVES,


proceed to round 3 below.

Round 3: CH1. SC in first stitch. *2SC in CH. SC in next 2


stitches* around. SC in last stitch. Slip stitch into first.

OPTION: If you want a less intense increase in your bell


sleeve, SC in each chain and stitch instead.

Put a stitch marker in this round.


Round 4: CH4 (counts as first TC CH1). TC in first stitch.
*SK2, (TC CH1 TC) in next* around until 2, 3, or 4
stitches remain.

- If 2 remain, slip stitch into first TC.


- If 3 remain, TC in last stitch. Then slip stitch into
first TC.
- If 4 remain, TC in last 2 stitches. Then slip stitch
into first TC.

Round 5: CH1. SC in first stitch. *2SC in next CH. SC in


next 2 stitches. SC in next CH. SC in next 2 stitches*
around.

OR, in other words, SC in each stitch but 2SC in EVERY


OTHER chain space.

Put another stitch marker in this round. As your second


stitch marker, this round should have 2SC in every
SECOND chain space.

Round 6: CH4 (counts as first TC CH1). TC in first stitch.


*SK2, (TC CH1 TC) in next* around until 2, 3, or 4
stitches remain.

- If 2 remain, slip stitch into first TC.


- If 3 remain, TC in last stitch. Then slip stitch into
first TC.
- If 4 remain, TC in last 2 stitches. Then slip stitch
into first TC.

Round 7: CH1. SC in first stitch. SC in each stitch but 2SC


in EVERY THIRD chain space.

Put another stitch marker in this round. As your THIRD


stitch marker, this round should have 2SC in every
THIRD chain space. Continue this for the rest of your
increase rounds.
Round 8: CH4 (counts as first TC CH1). TC in first stitch.
*SK2, (TC CH1 TC) in next* around until 2, 3, or 4
stitches remain.

- If 2 remain, slip stitch into first TC.


- If 3 remain, TC in last stitch. Then slip stitch into
first TC.
- If 4 remain, TC in last 2 stitches. Then slip stitch
into first TC.

Round 9: CH1. SC in first stitch. SC in each stitch but 2SC


in EVERY FOURTH chain space.

Repeat alternating V rounds and SC rounds using this


pattern, increasing the distance between each 2SC
increase by one more chain space per 2 rounds (using
your stitch markers to guide you!) until you have 8
stitch markers. On your final SC round, you should have
put 2SC in every EIGHTH chain space.
After your eighth SC increase round (and your eighth
stitch marker), alternate V rounds with SC rounds that
add 2SC in EVERY EIGHTH chain space until your sleeve
(when measured from just above your elbow) reaches
just before your fingertips – see blue curve.

I wanted a very long, draping bell sleeve. For a size


small, I did 15 total TC rows.

End on a SC row, but don’t fasten off.


Sleeve Angle

Slip stitch into the second TC in the nearest V from your


hook (yellow circle).

Row 1: CH3 (counts as first TC in TC2tog). SK1, TC in


next. *CH2. In first and third of the next 3 stitches,
TC2tog (makes an upside-down V).*

Repeat until you have 20 upside-down Vs – this photo is


how it will look when this row is folded on top of itself.

Row 2: CH1 and turn your work. SC across, 1 at the top


of each upside-down V and one per chain.
SC at the top of last upside-down V.

Row 3: CH1 and turn. Slip stitch into your first stitch.

CH5 (counts as TC CH2), SK5. *In first and third of the


next 3 stitches, TC2tog. CH2*
Repeat across until 6 stitches remain.

After final upside-down V, CH2. SK5. In the last stitch,


TC.
Row 4: CH1 and turn. Slip stitch across until you reach
the top of the nearest upside-down V.

SC across.

SC at the top of the final upside-down V.


Row 5: CH1 and turn. Slip stitch into your first stitch.
CH5 (counts as TC CH2), SK5. *In first and third of the
next 3 stitches, TC2tog. CH2*

Repeat across until 6 stitches remain.

NOTE: Be careful not to count slip stitches from


previous row as stitches! (Red oval)

After final upside-down V, CH2. SK5. In the last stitch,


TC.
Row 6: CH1 and turn. Slip stitch across until you reach
the top of the nearest upside-down V. SC across.

SC at the top of the final upside-down V.

Row 7: CH1 and turn. Slip stitch into your first stitch.
CH5 (counts as TC CH2), SK5. *In first and third of the
next 3 stitches, TC2tog. CH2*

Repeat across until 6 stitches remain.

After final upside-down V, CH2. SK5. In the last stitch,


TC.

Row 8: CH1 and turn. Slip stitch across until you reach
the top of the nearest upside-down V. SC across.

SC at the top of the final upside-down V.


Row 9: CH1 and turn. Slip stitch into your first stitch.

CH5 (counts as first TC CH2). SK4. In first and third of


the next 3 stitches, TC2tog.

CH2, SK4, TC In last stitch.


Sleeve Border:

CH1 and turn. Slip stitch up to chain before the upside-


down V.

At the top of the upside-down V, SC HDC DC HDC SC.

SC along the side of your sleeve angle. In each CH5 or TC


row, 6SC. In each SC row, 1SC.
SC in each stitch on the flat edge.

SC along the second side of your sleeve angle. In each


CH5 or TC row, 6SC. In each SC row, 1SC.

Slip stitch into the first SC on the top point shell.


CH1 and turn your work. SC in every stitch along the
border.

When you reach back around to your point, find the


middle DC in the shell. In the middle stitch, 3SC. SC in
remaining stitches.

Slip stitch into your first SC and fasten off.


Upper Sleeve:

Position your sleeve, right side out, and fold it along the
point (yellow circle). On the opposite corner (red
circle), slip stitch to connect.

Round 1: CH1. SC around. Slip stitch into first stitch.


Round 2: CH4 (counts as first TC CH1). TC in first stitch.
*SK2, (TC CH1 TC) in next* around until 2, 3, or 4
stitches remain.

- If 2 remain, slip stitch into first TC.


- If 3 remain, TC in last stitch. Then slip stitch into
first TC.
- If 4 remain, TC in last 2 stitches. Then slip stitch
into first TC.

Round 3: CH1. SC around. Slip stitch into first stitch.

IF YOU ARE DOING SLIP ON SLEEVES, fasten off, sew in


all ends, and repeat all steps for a second sleeve.

IF YOU ARE DOING SHOULDER SLEEVES, continue to the


next steps.

SIZING OPTION: If you need to increase the width as


you move up your arm, increase as needed by adding
2SC into chain spaces on SC rows. For my size small, I
did not increase because my initial chain was enough.
Continue alternating round 2 and 3 until when you try
your sleeve on, it reaches just below your armpit.

For a size small, I had 5 TC rows before my armpit.

End on a SC row.
Now you will transition to working in rows instead of in
the round.

Shoulder row 1: CH4 (counts as first TC CH1). TC in first


stitch. *SK2, (TC CH1 TC) in next* around until 3, 4, or 5
stitches remain.

- If 3 remain, TC in last stitch.


- If 4 remain, TC in last 2 stitches.
- If 5 remain, TC in last 3 stitches.

Shoulder row 2: CH1 and turn your work. 2SC in first


stitch. SC across.

2SC in last stitch.


Shoulder row 3: CH4 (counts as first TC CH1). TC in first
stitch. *SK2, (TC CH1 TC) in next* around until 3, 4, or 5
stitches remain.

- If 3 remain, TC in last stitch.


- If 4 remain, TC in last 2 stitches.
- If 5 remain, TC in last 3 stitches.

Shoulder row 4: CH1 and turn your work. 2SC in first


stitch. SC across. 2SC in last stitch.

Repeat until you have a total of 12 shoulder rows, or 6


TC rows. End on a SC row. Fasten off.

Repeat all steps to create a second sleeve, but after the


second sleeve do not fasten off.
Final border:

Position your sleeves to match the photo to the right,


which will match how the sleeves will fall when being
worn. Points should be down and on the outer edges.
Your hook and working loop should be on the upper
right corner of the left sleeve.

SC across the top of the first sleeve, in the direction of


the yellow arrow.

SC onto the back top corner of the next sleeve (red


circle, you should have a fastened end here).

SC across the top edge of the second sleeve.


After the last SC, chain 30. This will become a strap to
tie the open end of your sleeves together.

CH1 and turn. SC back down your chain.


SC down the side of your sleeve (in what will become
the armpit), 1SC per SC row and 3SC per TC row.

After the armpit, continue to SC along the second side.


SC in the final SC row on your current sleeve. Then, SC
into the first SC on the adjacent sleeve.

SC along the sides.

After your final SC row, CH 30 to add your second strap.


CH1 and turn. SC down the chain.

Slip stitch into your first SC on your border row.

Fasten off.

Try your sleeves on to make sure points of your bell


sleeve fall on the outer sides when worn.

Sew in all ends.

Enjoy your sleeves!

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