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Abhishek M
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Sacred Stones to Urban Streets

-Architectural & Cultural Insights from Cambodia and


Vietnam

NAME :ABHISHEK M
USN:1RW22AT006
SEM 6 SEC A
A. Introduction

Purpose of the Study Tour:

To examine the buildings, culture, society, and economy of Cambodia and Vietnam.
To investigate the Indian urban, vernacular and contemporary architecture in relation to
their environments.
To study the urban ecosystems of contemporary cities with a focus on sustainability,
heritage tourism and economic processes.

Most Important Sites Visited & Topics Engaged:

Cambodia
*Angkor Wat – Vernacular architecture, religious motifs.
*Royal University of Phnom Penh (Institute of Foreign Languages) – New Khmer Architecture
modernism.
*Artisans Angkor & Angkor Night Market – Cultural and economic centers.

Vietnam
*Cu Chi Tunnels – War, history, and underground architecture.
*Reunification Palace, Notre Dame Cathedral, Saigon Central Post Office – Modern colonial
public architecture.
*Ben Thanh Market & Nguyen Hue Street – Business and city activities.
*Wind & Water Café (Vo Trong Nghia Architects), Jakob Green Industry – Industry and
architecture of sustainability.

What I Wanted to Happen Before The Trip:


Assumed Urban Planning and Khmer and colonial influences as well as modern elements.
Was aware of new styles of urban centers as well as older building styles.
Wondering about the local economy and society and how they engage with the space.
To have fun.
B. Architectural analysis

Angkor Wat, The Kingdom of Cambodia (Vernacular/Traditional Architecture)


Spatial Organization: Cosmology incorporates Hindu and Buddhist elements, system of moat,
axial alignment.

Building Method: Sandstone blocks, corbelled arches, elaborate sculpted stone work.

In Relation to Use of Materials: Sandstone, laterite.

Comparison With Indian: Same types of temple plans such as Brihadeeswara temple in Tamil
Nadu.
Angkor Wat - Elevation View
A linear sketch presenting the symmetrical layout of Angkor Wat’s façade,
illustrating the rhythmic repetition of columns, windows, and the iconic tiered towers.

Phnom Bakheng Temple - Elevated Structure


A depiction of the Phnom Bakheng temple, a stepped pyramid
structure with a steep staircase leading to the shrine at the top,
highlighting the monumentality of early Khmer architecture.

Angkor Wat - Entrance Steps and Gateway


A detailed sketch of the entrance steps leading to one of the temple’s
gateways, showcasing the layered stone construction and the sense of
elevation in Khmer architecture.

Central Tower Perspective


A pencil sketch capturing the grandeur of Angkor Wat’s central tower from a frontal perspective, em
structure and intricate carvings.
Royal University of Phnom Penh (New Khmer Architecture)

Distinctive Characteristics: Brutalist style with large canopies, passive ventilation.

Architectural Work: By Vann Molyvann, integrating modernism with local culture.

In Relation to India: The CEPT Ahmedabads school of architecture has similar open degrees
of freedom for spatial circulation within the building.

Reunification Palace & Notre Dame Cathedral (Public Buildings, Vietnam)


Reunification Palace:

Post-independence national identity mid-century modernism.

Courtyards, and other architectural features that portray the idea in symbolic form.
Wind & Water Café & Jakob Green Industry (Sustainable & Contemporary Architecture,
Vietnam)

Vo Trong Nghia’s philosophy of design: Bamboo, vertical gardens, passive cooling.

Innovative urban shortcomings remediation Biophilic architecture, adaptive reuse.

In Comparison With India: Similar concepts can be observed in the economical structures
made from bricks built by Laurie Baker.

A bamboo pavilion featuring organic curves and warm lighting, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics.

A striking facade with perforated brick and vertical gardens, promoting sustainability in a dense urban setting.
C. Cultural & Community Insights

Examining how Cambodians and Vietnamese interact with developed spaces such as public
areas and marketplaces reveals the intricate social and cultural structures that exist within both
countries. Having been part of the study tour, showers enriched my understanding of how
people mark functional and cultural hubs out of markets, festivals, religious places and even
streets.

1. Culture Construction in different Public Domains

In Vietnam and Cambodia, markets and streets have long surpassed their trading purposes.
They now serve as multi-functional spaces that embody the local culture, cuisine, and lifestyle.

A. Angkor Night Market (Siem Reap, Cambodia)

In contrast to tourism, where clothes, wood carving, scrolling, silk scarves, and silver jewelry
crafted by artisans are resold, it is a mark of the traditional economy.

Cooperatives and NGOs play a major role as guardians of Khmer employment and crafts.

These places provide dining and amusement for residents and visitors. Therefore, the market
serves as a gathering place.

B. Ben Thanh Market (Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam)

This market, as well as its peers, is among the most traditional and frequently attended markets
in Vietnam, characterized by traditional meals, produce, and an array of souvenirs.

The era of French colonization saw the construction of a building which permitted the trading
of local textiles, jewelry and various handicrafts, which is now the home of a bustling market.

C. Nguyen Hue Walking Street (Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam)


A pedestrianized boulevard in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, hosting cultural events, street
performances, and social gatherings.
The Book Street & Café Apartments along this stretch provide unique public spaces that
encourage interaction and leisure.
The combination of modern urban planning and cultural vibrancy makes it a model for
inclusive city spaces.

Comparison with India:


Markets like Chandni Chowk in Delhi and Crawford Market in Mumbai have similar informal
economic setups but lack pedestrian-friendly spaces.
India’s street festivals (e.g., Durga Puja in Kolkata, Ganesh Chaturthi in Mumbai) resemble the
way Vietnamese and Cambodian public spaces host community events.
D. Economic & Urban Development
While observing from afar, one can see the intricacies in the economic and urban patterns
that Cambodia and Vietnam foster. Such elements as heritage tourism, markets, commercial
centers, and sustainable urban developments indicate economic activity. The observations of
this study tour show how historical conservation, informal markets, and public spaces can
foster development while mitigating the effects of urban development.

1. Role of Tourism in Heritage Conservation

As shown in the two historical sites Angkor Wat in Cambodia and Cu Chi Tunnels in Vietnam,
tourism is any nation’s strongest source of revenue and serves as protection in development
and conservation. Profits from tourism are directly correlated to the development of urban
infrastructure, employment opportunities, and the preservation of historical sites.

A. Angkor Wat: The Duality of Tourism and Revenue

As one of the most visited UNESCO's heritage sites, Angkor Wat attracts millions of tourists every
year.

Among the country’s most visited tourist attractions, Angkor Wat is singularly pivotal to the
country’s economy contributing millions with its entry fee, guided tours and trade by local
vendors.

Challenges:

Temples suffer from degradation due to over tourism which leads to environmental impacts in
the area.

Unregulated commercial activity is a part of the temple’s periphery, which facilitates


expansion of the urban area and traffic congestion.
B. Cu Chi Tunnels: War Heritage as an Economic Asset

Cu Chi Tunnels, initially employed by the Vietnamese forces during the war, are now a
significant heritage tourism destination.
Local enterprises flourish in the tunnels' vicinity, such as:
Guided tour operations.
Small handicraft industries that manufacture war-themed souvenirs.
Restaurants serving traditional wartime cuisine.
Comparison with India: Like Jallianwala Bagh and Cellular Jail (Andaman Islands), where war
history is maintained for tourism.

2. Role of Markets & Commercial Centers in the Economy


Cambodian and Vietnamese markets are economic drivers, promoting local entrepreneurship,
jobs, and tourism. The existence of bustling street markets, night markets, and floating markets
indicates the significance of informal economies in cities.
Architectural and Engineering Features
A. Multi-Layered Underground System
The tunnels were an extensive underground network spanning over 250 kilometers at their
peak, divided into multiple levels:
First Level (3-4 meters deep): Used for fighting and communication.
Second Level (6-8 meters deep): Contained storage areas, kitchens, hospitals, and living
quarters.
Third Level (10-12 meters deep): The safest zone, providing refuge during bombing raids.

B. Material and Structural Adaptations


Soil Composition: The region's hard clay soil was ideal for tunnel stability, preventing collapse.
Ventilation System: The tunnels had hidden ventilation holes disguised as anthills or tree roots,
ensuring a steady oxygen supply.
Trapdoors & Secret Entrances:
Entrances were narrow and camouflaged, designed to be invisible to enemy forces.
Trapdoors were booby-trapped with sharpened bamboo spikes, an example of guerrilla
warfare tactics.

C. Living Conditions & Self-Sufficiency


The tunnels were designed to sustain long-term habitation, featuring:
Storage areas for food, water, and weapons
Underground kitchens (with smoke-disguising chimneys to prevent detection)
Field hospitals for injured soldiers
Meeting rooms for planning attacks
Challenges Faced:
Extreme heat and humidity in confined spaces.
Diseases like malaria, infections, and dysentery were common.
Food scarcity led to reliance on cassava and root vegetables.
Strategic and Military Importance
A. Guerilla Warfare Tactics
The Viet Cong forces used the tunnels as hidden bases for launching surprise attacks against
U.S. and South Vietnamese troops.
Hit-and-run tactics: Fighters would attack and quickly disappear into the tunnels, making it
difficult for enemies to retaliate.
Underground movement allowed troops to evade aerial and ground assaults

B. Countermeasures by U.S. Forces


The U.S. army struggled to fight an enemy that remained hidden underground. In response,
they used:
"Tunnel Rats" – Small-built American and Australian soldiers sent into the tunnels to combat the
Viet Cong.
Bombing and defoliants (e.g., Agent Orange) to destroy vegetation and expose tunnel
entrances.
Flooding and Poison Gas Attacks to force fighters out of tunnels.
Despite these efforts, the Viet Cong adapted and continued using the tunnels effectively.
3. Cultural & Psychological Impact
The tunnels symbolize Vietnamese resilience and determination.
The harsh living conditions in the tunnels reflect the sacrifices made by soldiers and
civilians.
Today, they stand as a tourist attraction and historical site, educating visitors on the
realities of war.

Resilience Through Design


The Cu Chi Tunnels showcase how architecture adapts to extreme conditions, prioritizing
survival and stealth.

Ingenious Use of Resources


Sustainable use of local materials (clay, bamboo, natural camouflage) aligns with India’s
indigenous construction techniques.

Urban Warfare and Passive Defense


Unlike modern warfare relying on technology, guerrilla tactics emphasize spatial intelligence
and hidden infrastructure—a lesson in strategic urban planning.
Preservation of Cultural Heritage

Cu Chi Tunnels, now a tourist site, highlight how war history can be preserved for future
generations.
India’s own underground historical structures need better conservation and interpretation for
educational purposes.
A section through chu chi tunnel

Role of Markets & Commercial Centers in the Economy


Cambodian and Vietnamese markets are economic drivers, promoting local
entrepreneurship, jobs, and tourism. The existence of bustling street markets, night
markets, and floating markets indicates the significance of informal economies in
cities.
A. Ben Thanh Market, Ho Chi Minh City

One of Vietnam's biggest traditional markets, offering everything from clothing to street food.
Economic importance:
Principal job creator for vendors, artisans, and service providers.
Both locals and tourists are attracted to it, providing a consistent stream of revenue.
Challenges:
Risk of gentrification: Certain markets are being displaced by shopping malls, endangering
traditional enterprises.
Rising rents push out small vendors, making local products less affordable.
Comparison with India: Like Crawford Market in Mumbai and Chandni Chowk in Delhi, where
traditional markets are being replaced by modern retail complexes over time.

B. Angkor Night Market, Siem Reap


A hotbed of cultural and economic activity, selling handicrafts, traditional clothing, and
souvenirs.
Local economic impact:
Sustains small-scale producers and craft businesses, preserving Khmer heritage.
Promotes fair trade and eco-tourism, with positive impacts on local communities.
Issues:
Heavy tourist reliance makes the market susceptible to economic downturns.
Environmental issues through waste generation and plastic use.
Comparison with India: Just like Jaipur's Johari Bazaar or Goa's flea bazaars, tourism-driven
business enhances handicraft industries but is not sustainable.
Urbanization & Infrastructure Growth: Vietnam vs. Cambodia
Vietnam's fast-paced urbanization and infrastructure growth are contrasted with
Cambodia's low-key, tourism-friendly economic model.

A. Ho Chi Minh City: A Model for Urban Growth

Skyscrapers, metro lines, and systematic public transportation reveal fast-paced


modernization.
The metro rail system under development aims to reduce traffic congestion and pollution.
Sustainable urbanism observed in:
Nguyen Hue Walking Street: A pedestrian-friendly boulevard that prioritizes social interaction.
Green architecture by Vo Trong Nghia Architects: Promoting urban farming and eco-friendly
designs.
Comparison with India: Ho Chi Minh’s urban planning is comparable to Bangalore or Pune,
where high economic growth fuels infrastructural expansion, but challenges such as traffic
congestion and environmental degradation persist.

B. Phnom Penh: A City Striking a Balance between Tradition and Modernization

Slower urbanization as a result of economic reliance on tourism and foreign aid.


New Khmer Architecture movement combining modernist architecture with traditional
Cambodian appeal.
Challenges for infrastructure:
Road networks and public transport are underdeveloped, with heavy dependence on
motorcycles and tuk-tuks.
Gentrification around historical sites, changing the socio-economic landscape of the city.
Comparison with India: Phnom Penh's urbanization follows Jaipur, whereby tourist-growth-
driven prosperity brings economic benefits but also infrastructure and heritage preservation
problems.
Key Economic & Urban Takeaways

Heritage tourism is a significant economic contributor in Cambodia and Vietnam.


Informal economies (night markets, street vendors, and night bazaars) are critical to
the continuation of urban living.

Vietnam is urbanizing at a fast rate, while Cambodia is managing tourism-driven


growth and its associated infrastructure problems.

Sustainable architecture and green urbanism in Vietnam are lessons that are
worth learning by Indian cities.

Lessons for India

Incorporate good models of integrated heritage conservation like Angkor Wat


and Cu Chi Tunnels.

Improve pedestrian-friendly street and organized markets inspired by Nguyen Hue


Walking Street.

Promote sustainable, people-oriented urban growth, as it is in the case of the


green architecture movement in Vietnam.

Strike a balance between tourism-economic growth and measures for


sustainability so that heritage destinations are not over-commercialized.
Architectural Takeaways

Integration of Nature in Built Form


The bamboo architecture in Vietnam seamlessly integrates with natural elements, as seen in
trees growing through the built space and water bodies surrounding structures.
This design philosophy contrasts with Indian urban architecture, where nature is often
secondary to development, except in select examples like stepwells or courtyards in
traditional Indian homes.
The focus on passive cooling through natural ventilation and shading reflects a sustainable
approach, similar to Indian vernacular architecture but less common in contemporary
developments.

Use of Vernacular Materials


Bamboo and locally sourced materials are prominently used, emphasizing sustainability and
regional identity.
Compared to India, where traditional materials like sandstone, brick, and wood were
historically used, Vietnamese architecture embraces bamboo as both a structural and
aesthetic element.
The craftsmanship in the joinery and detailing is reminiscent of indigenous Indian techniques
such as timber construction in Kerala and bamboo houses in Northeast India.
Blurring the Boundary Between Indoors and Outdoors
The open-air seating, water integration, and lightweight bamboo structure create a fluid
relationship between built and unbuilt spaces.
In contrast, Indian architecture has a strong tradition of courtyards (as seen in havelis and
Chettinad houses), but contemporary urban developments in India lean towards more
enclosed designs.

Sustainability and Passive Design


The architectural approach promotes natural ventilation, daylighting, and energy efficiency.
Similar strategies were historically prevalent in India (such as jaali work in Mughal architecture
for ventilation), but modern urban buildings in India often rely on mechanical cooling rather
than passive strategies.

Cultural & Community Takeaways


Social Gathering & Community Spaces
The restaurant/café setting in the bamboo architecture highlights how Vietnamese design
encourages communal interaction.
In Indian context, tea stalls, dhabas, and temple courtyards serve as informal community
spaces, whereas Vietnam integrates such spaces into designed environments.
Respect for Traditional Craft & Techniques
The craftsmanship in bamboo construction reflects the preservation of indigenous knowledge.
India has a similar wealth of craftsmanship (stone carving, woodwork, bamboo craft in the
Northeast), but globalization has led to a decline in these practices, whereas Vietnam
actively incorporates them into contemporary architecture.

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