~ACPL ITEM ——

DISCARDED §=.59) Authentic

- Turn-of-the-Century Fashion Patterns

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Kri stina Harris

 ALLEN COUNTY PUBLIC LIBRARY
FORT WAYNE, INDIANA 46802

You may return this book to-anyiocation-of

the Allen County Public Library.

—
ee siz e A C P L I T E M
“< DISCARDED
CEATURY FASHION FATTERNS

99 Authentic Turn-of-the-Gentury
Fashion Patterns

Kristina Harris

= Diss

DOVER PUBLICATIONS, INC.

NEW YORK
Allen County Public Library
Webster Stre
Box 2270
Fort Wayne, IN ,
46801-2079

The diagrams on page iv are taken from the author’s Peterson's Patterns for Civil War Era
Ladies, published by Pioneer Printwork, Springfield, Oregon, 1994, and are used with
her permission.

Copyright
Copyright © 1994 by Dover Publications, Inc.
All rights reserved under Pan American and International Copyright Conventions.
Published in Canada by General Publishing Company, Ltd., 30 Lesmill Road, Don
Mills, Toronto, Ontario.
Published in the United Kingdom by Constable and Company, Ltd., 3 The Lanches-
ters, 162-164 Fulham Palace Road, London W6 gER.

Bibliographical Note
59 Authentic Turn-of-the-Century Fashion Patterns, first published by Dover Publica-
tions, Inc., in 1994, is a selection of patterns from the following issues of The Voice of
Fashion:
Vol. V, No. 18, Fall 1890; Vol. V, No. 19, Winter 1890-91; and Vol. V, No. 20, Spring
1891—all published by Goldsberry, Doran & Nelson, Chicago, Illinois.
Vol. VII, No. 28, Spring 1893; Vol. VIII, No. 29, Summer 1893; Vol. VIII, No. 32, Spring
1894; Vol. IX, No. 36, Spring 1895; and Vol. X, No. 39, Winter 1896—all published by
Goldsberry & Doran, Chicago, Illinois.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Harris, Kristina. 4
59 authentic turn-of-the century fashion patterns / Kristina Harris.
p. cm.
Selection of patterns from various 1890's issues of the Voice of fashion.
ISBN 0-486-28357-7 (pbk.)
1. Dressmaking—Patterns. 2. Costume—United States—History—1oth century.
3. Voice of fashion. I. Voice of fashion. II. Title. IJ. Title: Authentic turn-of-
the century fashion patterns.
TT520.H277 1994
646.4'78—dcz0 94-38091
CIP

Manufactured in the United States of America

Dover Publications, Inc., 31 East 2nd Street, Mineola, N.Y. 11501
 INTRODUCTION

It isa common belief that ladies throughout the nineteenth If all the patterns for a particular garment piece (such as
century sewed all or most garments for themselves and the bodice) are in the same scale, the patterns can be
their families; however, truth be told, most women of the enlarged by the grid method. An easy way to check
middle and upper classes sewed far less prolifically—often whether they are in the same scale is to measure the line
making only undergarments and a few accessories. This running along the right-hand side of the pattern. Divide
was due, in part, to the lack of sewing patterns available. this measurement into the number given at the bottom of
Although many fashion magazines from as early as the the line. If the patterns are in the same scale, your results
1850s regularly included patterns and diagrams, these should be roughly the same for each piece. If the pattern
were difficult to use without some in-depth training in pieces are to more than one scale or size, be sure to read the
dressmaking. By the 1860s, Butterick was offering patterns instructions for “The Grading Method.”
as we know them today, but these, though within the grasp
of many home sewers, were produced for only a few select
The Grid Method
garments.
Professional dressmakers, on the other hand, were usu- Begin with a major body measurement such as the waist.
ally trained and had at their disposal not only the patterns Next, add an appropriate amount of wearing ease (for most
and diagrams readily available to the public, but also a waistlines of this period, about 2” is appropriate). Now, in
myriad of patterns produced specifically for their trade. order to figure your scale, compare this total measure-
The scaled patterns reprinted here, originally published ment with the corresponding measurement on the scaled
in a quarterly magazine called The Voice of Fashion, were pattern; be sure to take seam allowances and pattern
among the dressmaker’s patterns offered in the 18gos. pieces that represent % or less of the garment into consid-
With each issue of The Voice of Fashion came a poster eration. If, for example, the intended wearer has a 23%2”
depicting every garment in the magazine. These posters waist, plus %” for wearing ease, and the scaled pattern’s
were put on display for clients to choose garments from. waist measurement is 2”, the proper scale to use would be
Once a client decided which garment she wanted, the 1’/12”. In other words, every inch on the scaled pattern
dressmaker or her assistant (called a “cutter”) would en- would equal 12” on the full-size pattern.
large the scaled pattern onto either heavy paper or card- Next, draw a grid on top of the scaled pattern (in this
board or directly onto fabric. example, a 1” grid), and then draw a grid on the shelf paper
Possibly, these were the last patterns of their kind. (in this example, a 12” grid).
Though dressmaker’s patterns had thrived since the late Now, transfer the lines of the scaled pattern onto the
eighteenth century, they would quickly be made obsolete shelf paper, square by square. Whenever necessary, tape
by arash of full-size paper patterns that would take over in the shelf paper together to make it large enough for a full-
the early 1900s. Though The Voice of Fashion would con- size pattern.
tinue to be published well into the twentieth century, its
slant would change—no longer would professional dress-
The Grading Method
makers be the publisher’s target market. The home sewer
would become the target market for the new century. When garments illustrated show pattern pieces given in
Today, these patterns remain as a testament of fashion— more than one scale, you should use the grading method.
not the fashions pictured in fashion magazines and worn Notice that each pattern includes sets of numbers running
only by a select group of society, but the fashions worn by along all pattern lines. The numbers running along the
“everyday” people of the middle and upper classes. They right-hand edge of the pattern indicate length measure-
are a means of documenting existing period garments, as ments; the other numbers indicate the width. Draw the
well as accurately recreating fashions of the past. _ pattern lines onto your paper, following all measurements
carefully. It may be helpful to draw a1” grid onto the paper
before transferring pattern lines onto it, but it is not neces-
HOW TO USE THE PATTERNS sary. Where curves are shown, you may draw them free-
hand or with the aid of a French curve (available at dress-
The patterns given in this book are scaled. There are a making stores).
number of different ways to enlarge them. For either of the Once you have carefully drawn out each pattern piece
two methods described here, you will need a pencil, a ruler, according to the measurements given, you have created a
transparent tape and a roll of wrapping or shelf paper. “standard size” sloper for the garment. This, by modern
standards, is quite small and will need to be graded to fit pattern and must be added before cutting out the pattern
the modern figure. If you are unfamiliar with the practice in fabric.
of grading patterns, follow the instructions given below or ¢ Carefully label all pattern pieces and transfer any
consult a dressmaking book at your local library. construction markings to the full-size pattern.
To Adjust Width: Changes will almost certainly need to be e If a corset and other undergarments are to be worn, the
made in the width of your pattern. To determine how much body measurements should be taken in these under-
change is necessary, subtract your actual measurements garments.
(including wearing ease and seam allowances) from the e It may be necessary to use different scales for different
corresponding pattern measurements. For example, if parts of each garment even if the pattern pieces for each
your waist measurement is 25¥2” and the pattern measure- part are in the same scale. For instance, the bodice may
ment is 19”, you need to enlarge your pattern by 672” in the require a larger scale than the skirt, especially if a corset
waist area. Now, divide the amount you must enlarge the will not be worn beneath the finished garment.
pattern (in our example 672”) by the number of bodice ¢ The length of most skirt patterns is not proportional.
pattern pieces (for our example, say 4). This will tell you Regulate the length of skirts by personal length mea-
how much to enlarge each pattern piece (in our example, surements.
1%"). Slash the pattern pieces as illustrated in Fig. r, and e Always remember to add wearing ease to your body
spread in a triangular fashion. Place a piece of paper measurements before figuring the scale on which to en-
behind the slashed section and tape it into place. large your pattern. If you make your pattern to your exact
To take in the pattern, make a tuck in the pattern as measurements, the resulting garment will be skin tight,
shown in Fig. r and redraw the cutting and seam lines. and will probably rip with every movement. Ease must be
To Adjust Length: If your garment needs adjustment in added to make clothes fit comfortably. The typical 1890s
length, either fold it (if too long) or slash and spread it (if waistline had about ¥%” to 1” ease, and the average snug-
too short) (Fig. 2). fitting bustline had about 2%” of ease.
Remember: ¢ Because there is no “standard” body, testing and per-
¢ In most cases, allowances for closures (hooks and eyes, fecting the pattern in muslin before cutting out the fashion
buttons, plackets) and facings are not included on the fabric is advised.

Las

Fig. r. To adjust width. Fig. 2. To adjust length.

 + GENERAL DIRECTIONS <
TO TAKE MEASURES. Great care should THE ARROWS are used for two purposes—
be taken in getting measures. (See illustration be- one to show which way to turn the curve, the other
low. the number of points to be connected with the curve.
TAKE BUST MEASURE with the tape meas- THE CURVE should always be turned with the
ure straight around the largest part of the bust, as largest part in the direction in which the arrow
shown below, high up under the arms; take a snug, points.
close measure neither too tight nor too loose. When the arrow is placed detween two lines it
TAKE MEASURE AROUND THE WAIST shows that only two points are to be connected.
as tight as the dress is to be worn. When the arrow is placed upon a cross line it
TAKE LENGTH OF WAIST from the large shows that three points must be connected with the
joint where neck and body join, down to the waist. curve, that the point by the arrow is the middle one,
Care must be taken to get this measure. © and the points nearest on each side must be con-
SLEEVE MEASURE is taken from the center nected with the curve at the same time with larger
of back to wrist joint,with arm raised and elbow bent. part of the curve turned in the direction the arrow
IN CUTTING a garment look carefully at the points.
drafts being copied; use numbers and curves as The letter A in corner of draft is the starting
shown in draft. point in making draft.

a
&
cals F

GZ :

m
r
MT k

ail P

s
pi

TAKING MEASUREMENTS.

x ~ N
.
TX
\\
aX
nN y¥
S
Wi AS
\
4
“
S 2
\W . E

DIRECTIONS FOR BASTING.

First:—Smooth, even tracing is very necessary. Place the pattern smooth on lining
crosswise. Trace each line carefully. Cut out the lining same as pattern. Place the lining
straight on the goods, the nap, if any, running down. Pin the lining at the waist line. Full the
lining (from % to % inch) each side of the waist line, from 1% inches below the waist line to
2% inches above, the greatest fullness coming at the waist line; this shortens the lining, but
when boned it will be stretched to place. Leave the lining easy each way, from top of darts to
shoulders, and one-fourth of an inch full at center of shoulder line. Never backstitch in basting
or draw the thread tight.

In joining the different parts together, care must be taken, as smooth, even basting is
necessary. Pass the needle exactly through the traced seam lines on both sides of the seam,
as many garments are ruined by careless basting.

In joining the back and side-back, hold the side-back to you, thus you will baste one up
and the other down. It is a good idea to pin these pieces before basting. If the shoulder
blades are prominent, hold the back piece a little full where the shoulder blades strike to within
1% inches of arms-eye. In basting the shoulders, hold the back to you. Baste evenly for one
inch, then stretch the front shoulder to match the back, for the back is always cut longer.
 LADIES’ COSTUME.

'.
Seam

"In.
(2
SS

et

NN }

—-—_
ba
Lal

LADIES’ COSTUME. ©) 4) =
£10 1g
a

Use the scale corresponding with bust B++ -LeTs

measure to draft the waist and sleeves n
ir}

which consists of Front, Back, Side Back

Under Arm-Gore, Yoke, Shirring, Collar,, 34
Space
Puff for the Sleeves and two Sleeve Por- Under
Ar ary
tions.
Gather the portions for the full front at
the top and sew to the yoke. Lay the
pleats at the bottom according to the notches;
join to the under front at the under arm and
shoulder seams; close in front with hooks and eyes.
The back is plain, but may be made with a yoke same as the front, if de-
sired; finish the bottom with a band of ribbon or velvet, two or three inches 7% Se
—_—- —
wide; finish in the back with loops and long ends of the same, gather the top 8/4 Space

of the puff and sew in with the sleeve; gather the bottom and finish with a
band of velvet or ribbon; finish the sleeve at the hand with one or more bands
of the same width.
The drapery is drafted by the scale corresponding with the waist measure, == 4/{/---~=~~ ~~~
it consists of three pieces—Front, Side Panel and Back Drapery.
Lay the pleats according to the notches; the back is laid in two triple box
pleats; make it as long as the skirt.
The diagrams for the skirt are given on page 5, it is drafted by the scale
corresponding with the waist measure, is in three pieces—Front, Back and
Side Gore. Regulate the length by the tape measure. 1% «(10

2 / Fall 1890
 LADIES’ COSTUME —Continued.
4*/2

Cut Double
| SLEEVE
by, ae 15/5
/

[3 a/
ls 4
y [5
Is
i) 4. 110%

161

1
8 s SE Bhan soca ee 18

14
i
|

‘
8|

3} SHIRRING FOR FRONT

e

14% =}———— sree, eee

No. B5

15
iia ke a
ae el oe
Sa nr 47%
eae
1% 13%
ol
bt

mbt ~~

TANVdadIS

Fall 1890 / 3
4 / Fall 1890
ee
ee a a en es tee Sa ee ee Ss SS es ES pans
ee ren pe feee casa i a re 8 Se
LADIES’

NO.OF

Join Front Draprey

Center of BackCut Double
Drapery
Backfor Pleating

DRAPERY
FRONT
Bl No.
COSTUME—Continued.
LADIES’ STREET COSTUME —Continued.

Cut Double

No. Al

ONE HALF OF BACK BREADTH

4 In, Seam

1/2 In. Seam

No. Al
SIDE GORE

ONE HALF OF FRONT.

No. Al

Cut Double

Fall 1890 / 5
 CHILD’S BLOUSE COSTUME.

CHILD’S BLOUSE COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure to draft the waist
and sleeves. It consists of nine pieces.
The blouse consists of front and back yokes, shirring for front and
back, cuff, and three sleeve portions. Gather the front and back por-
tions, and sew to the yoke: also gather the lower edge and sew to under
waist. If made to wear during the warm season, omit the under waist;
simply gather and sew to the skirt; bind the seams underneath to keep
it in place. Gather the full sleeve at the top and bottom, and baste on
the tight sleeve at the top and bottom.
The skirt is drafted by the waist measure. Regulate the length by
the tape measure.

ONE HALF OF SKIRT

91 OD
ae
|

6 / Fall 1890
CHILD’S BLOUSE COSTUME—Continued.

Double
ut
C

SHIRRING FOR BACK

344
Space
Seam

Cut
Double

<_—_—

By38

Fall 1890 iy 7
 LADIES’ WRAP.

SLEEVE

10 7

LADIES’ WRAP.
Use the scale corresponding with the
bust measure to draft the entire cos-
tume, which consists of Front, Back,
Side-Back, Sleeve, Cuff, Belt, and four
Collar pieces. Lay pleats in the back
and front according to the notches, turn
the pleats toward the center, stitch each
pleat down as far as the notches; press
carefully. Sew the belt in the under-
arm dart. Gather the sleeve at the
top between the notches, and sew in
the arms eye. Gather at the bottom
and sew on the cuff. It would be bet-
ter to make a tight lining. Cut from
any of the tight sleeve patterns.
The three collars, or capes, are faced
with silk.
This makes a very stylish looking
garment, as well as comfortable.
Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

8 / Fall 1890
 LADIES’ WRAP—Continued.

remedy

NIT LUSTY.
4S9%L

host TATA
Ss“dg, %

rAT?

=<
ao
7
Y,
a

Fall 1890 / 9
 CHILD’S STREET COSTUME.

eee ee eile G2 Ry cee aer q2

10 974. SYBE LL EOI

4 \ Back |,
AH
LD
|al Fsd
N| | In
i Ia
3
3\ ie
1/3 2| be
a ny}
| 1
EAA = > = Ci | is as!Zz & =<

CHILD’S STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure to

draft the jacket, blouse, waist, and also the under-waist.
The jacket consists of five pieces: Front, Back, Col-
lar, and two Sleeve portions. Finish the bottom of this
with a very fine silk cord.
The blouse waist is in four pieces: Front, Back,
Sleeve and Cuff. Gather the front to fit the neck, face
the bottom, and insert a rubber cord.
The under waist is in two pieces: Front and Back.
Close in the back with buttons and button-holes.
The skirt is drafted by the scale corresponding with
the waist measure. Lay the pleats according to the
notches. Press carefully and sew to the under-waist.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.

-—-

al -[n.-Seam
@
a
io}
iS)
Sn
a
ot
a
°
csi

10 / Fall 1890
 CHILD'S STREET COSTUME—Continued.

18/219%
o1qnod nD

Plait
Box

Cut, Double Center of FrontA

|
| Half of
|| Box Plait

|
|
l
I
|
|
|
\ |
| |
\ | Box Plait

|
|
|
|
|
54
Seam
Sp.
__
| ONE HALF
<ABS |
| OF SKIRT
|
| No. 10 C
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|

wove BSTV MaaNo |

|
|
__Waist
Line
_ | Gather

|
|
|
24

Fall 1890 / 11
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

\\
NTA)
ie jl
y
ty

——— ———

ee
Ose
eee
oe

749
ic4
_-—
— aaa’

LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

ee
ee
Use the scale corresponding with the bust
at (J) el ou re) XRF
measure to draft the waist and jacket. The
=F Sy ee =
* < )

waist consists of Upper and Under Front,

Back, Side Back, and Under-arm-gore.
The full front is simply turned down at the ray
bo
top and shirred one or more times. Gather iS
the bottom between the notches and join to the |
— _——.

under front at the under arm and shoulder

—_— —.
meee
~ —
—~.
seams. Finish the bottom of the waist with a
pointed or rounding belt. The sleeves may
be made of the same material as the waist, if
preferred. The Jacket consists of two pieces:
Front and Back. Make it as long in the back
as the waist can be made, of velvet or lace.
The drapery is given on page 14. Draft
out by the scale corresponding with the waist
measure. Is in two pieces: Front and Back.
Lay the pleats according to the notches; make LNOUE
FO
Lasove
it as long as the skirt.
SS
Draft the skirt from any of the plain skirt pt tt er)
patterns given in this issue. Sete ke x
w Sh ot

12 / Fall 1890
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

omeiides
SC 4
Seam
pace

34
Seam
Space 438

ee

1
\ SHIRRING FOR FRONT
\
=1
3 \
2\
N \
2 | No. BS
ra
J
=
nN

b =
asting._— WAIST LINE
| 1
at
beutB—
Open

Fall 1890 / 13
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.
Cut Double

BACK DRAPERY

BOX PLAIT

Y9e

ALG)
|
!
1
|
!
|
|
!
!
I
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
i
|
|
|
{
|
I
|
|
|
!
|
!
I
I
at

Li--

(4 / Fall r890
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

=)

Use the scale corresponding with the bust meas-

ure to draft entire basque, which consists of front,
vest, back, side back, rolling collar, cuff and sleeve.
Sew rolling collar on the line running from 5,
on top line, down to 134, on the seventh cross line.
Sew the vest in; close with hooks and eyes. Ifthe
front is to be made as represented here without
darts, cut the lining from the front given. Cut
the outside on the bias and stretch it to fit the fig-
ure perfectly. Finish all around with a fold or
heavy cord. The diagrams for the pleating of
the skirt is given on page 16. Draft by waist =
measure. The foundation skirt is given on page i—)

17. Draft by waist measure also. Regulate the

length by the tape measure.

MAHUIS

———

Winter 1890-91 / 15
 Seare_—
In. 1/_

fe
--
6138/4 oa naere So RSA DES
5934ce cae a
Lash ee7
be - _--—-—--
Beam, Inch
up
--------

ee ermae a at a ae
aa eS eS
| RS a73/sb

9 | Winter 1890-91
481/4 eeeeres i on eas oo OTB 2q
leay,
-
a
342a py Ye tya N
a aa a y
aa
1 474
tn

37Y2
|
poe S
a o
ssee ete baa
Rech ibis 19,uU09
Jo Hovg 3n9 elqnog =
ae
:
14,BE No.
8321/4. B
1
4
Sr St pa2swl ©
1
2
eee en ee en a enn ain ne mn Sa = = [<--> BTG)g
1 FRONT.
FOR p

--Hoy2 PLEATING ONE-HALF

iB?
: aes ae aT a dy ae i,ee, Tn i
he ae es i i 47Yo
aANO JFTVH
Led O
| : AO WOVA CXYaAVXOH
Ud Wild 8
ae)
lay CE a
3E
794 rp :
are
: oa a er RL
ae en) di a ataaia aa a 48Y8

i
: a Of.Front.
Center 48s

UloLr OPIS s[9uvd

eea ee
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

Cut Double,

BACK BREADTH OF SKIRT

Top of Skirt
A
nee a 5 H| | | | | | | | | | | |

Bag a
GORE. SIDE

Join Front. lg Inch Seam.

13/2
----=------~-+--------

Seam
—

m
=)
Oo
4
a

Cut Double
a7

Winter 1890-91 / 17
 MISSES’ CLOAK.

MISSES’ CLOAK.
Use the scale corresponding with the
bust measure to draft the entire gar-
ment, which consists of front, back,
side-back, two sleeves, cuff and three
cape portions.
Draft the same as all other garments,
put the parts together as they are
marked, take up the dart on the shoul-
ders of the cape.
Make of any suitable material.
Regulate the length by the tape
measure.

ot
our
--=
_

MULE
os
al
+ \B)
\ nes
eae
ad
Gne
Se
es

, = i ——*

f°
- e

:or

x5

18 / Winter 1890-91
 MISSES’ CLOAK—Continued.

6°),
1

67%

6%
5
=

4:
2h)
a Hes Inch Seam ———
PEs
nt
eal

oN

2%,
a
——!
HW
SLE sEVE.

ei
i
12%
o
RES: +=

g
©

5/4
8

9%
CUT DOUBLE

15.
Waist

8),
3
ie
14
>!
S
=. 8s Your Ot

rll
T
2Bet,
8%
N
|
I
83/4 + == ee ee
«+

12%
1

|
7
8 inch eat,
Be

51/2

8
van Inch Seam

Winter 1890-91 / 19
 LADIES’ TRAIN WRAPPER.

WS
WE DW
SX
A

LADIES’ TRAIN WRAPPER.

Use the scale corresponding with the

the bust measure to draft the entire gar-
ment, which consists of front, back, side
back, collar and two sleeve portions.
41/4 512

Lay the pleats in the back according

to the notches.

Close in front with hooks and eyes;

trim the foot with a pleated ruche, made
of the same material as the dress. This
may extend just across the front or
all around.

Regulate the length to suit.

20 / Winter 1890-91
 8.)E No.
{ a! =
joa, 442 Ye---Bel
-----St
CH ia
3 ‘s
AZ
fler ae
Ve

| \
LADIES’

Cut Double
Inch Seam

1
|
+----- 59%
| ------
TRAIN

| H NO.10
|

BACK
g
f

BAC SIDE
ie /
711% Vig 6%
10" line Waist i Wl,
heea

—~

Ve
{48 ~Pac
aesoia tye
WRAPPER—Continued.

8 16 2!
‘|

15% y Ap-——— 12%,

| 3/5

Winter 1890-91
/ 21
 CHILD’S COSTUME.

> eySig ase eae aes eee ----| 21/2

EE ie eeeey see FY Is

\
eh oooes a--—-

Aja

CHILD’S COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the

bust measure to draft the waist and
sleeves, which consists of front, back
side-back, under-arm-gore, collar, cuff 3/4 Space
1

and three sleeve portions. Cut the bot-

tom asrepresented. Trim same as the
skirt, close in the back, with buttons
and button-holes; cut the lining for the
sleeves from the smaller patterns. The
skirt is drafted by the scale corre-
sponding with the waist measure; lay
the pleats according to the notches.
Regulate the length by the tape meas-
ure.
fais
37s}
AERA
giz
1'€-e!

fT}
Siu
a"
81

--
ot

COLLAR
Ot)

i=

No. G
is
Le
1a
ke

22 / Winter 1890-91
 CHILD’S COSTUME—Continued.

||
|
Fi
SLEEVE J oHg
NO.10 C
4.Inch
3
wa
}/g-Inch-Beam—
ss
| \ |

9
9%

wt a] we “« - =
> ND ce os
Es a 2a) San! oS Soa
cle: oO & a as a = 2
: »
y v V ;
A
Fs Top of Skirt =
z Be
a 3g
a

BOX PLAITING FOR SKIRT

=
@
S2
-m i)

Pav 88
ewot ¢ & a e) fg Sw
n
2 ae ar a 2© xa ce =
> a t oo ay 2
- ~ ao ee) a a=“ a =S i

Winter 1890-91 / 23
 LADIES’ WRAP.

4121/3 “B15 SP

V084a} 222s
17/4 -—-W-----------
I'S
J------------+
On, SS.
| | ~ ]15Ya4 ]129/4
1
'

it oad uaa Gan Wor

3 |
\]a'
Z|
Ey@ :
18Y2) 15V2 $13
19/-4------\-*-f--------
/
f
j / \\ //
mn 1Dbo eet
Pik eed oe a eee
2078 Peeper NRT Read oi Sie 1 91/4,
i

i
i
!

i FRONT.
t
t
I
1
I

H
'

H
{
t
t
t
1
{
t

H
! No. E 15.
t
f! Line
This
On
Side
Bight
Cut
1 Line
This
On
Side
Left
Cut
I
t

!
I
t
i

bas 142 ar7

ble 4
LADIES’ LONG WRAPS © ae 2 a eee

Use the scale corresponding with the

bust measure to draft the entire garment,
which consists of front, back, side back, col-
lar and two sleeve portions. Cut’ on the: inept atte aac a
M4 \- ------------
=== ---a=--2------
side line for the left front and the outside
line for the right front. Trim with fur or
astrachan.
The polonaise, given on page 26, is drafted
by bust measure. It consists of right and feet
eam.

left front, back, side back, under-arm-gore,

cuff and sleeve, which are given on page 25,
/g
8Inch
--T
Lay the pleats in the front according to the
notches; lay two double box pleats in the
back; trim as desired. The skirt is drafted
by the waist measure and is in three pieces:
Front, back, side gore. Regulate to suit.

24 / Winter 1890-91
 LADIES’ WRAP—Continued.

Yo 1neh Seain. ‘+

Beene

—=——----~ -

458
$=
ee Pte ed
Ad

See
=

15/8
SSS
3
8

SSS
aeWaist

41/2
Line.|1
93/4
11Y4
91/2
45/4
.0|
! 1 + iM I 1 ts 4}1

-_

.
|
|
|
|
\ BSS lo1/4 |
|
C3 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
SLEEVE

|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
poe Semen in. 8 eam

Winter 1890-91 / 25
 LADIES’ POLONAISE.

—
_ pesg
?PIS ujor
c=
eae
.
140)
|
WHY

~ wreag qouy
a

Asana

ey
| | |
i

uisag
ee

eTqnog 78D

youl

&/y
zs
eeee
men

asa -~a

LEFT FRONT
<——
ae

SIDE BACK
——

26 / Winter 1890-91
 / 27
Winter 1890-91
\ RIGHT FRONT qnoo adiIs
15%}-— ie ae —i"% TV ‘ON
ie lee ye po 974
+ pee Mee ee eer —oealb |
167, 91154
1 2 Inch Seam
POLONAISE—Continued.

e1qnog 32D
TV ‘ON
‘LNOUA IO ATVH ANO
=ay}
—
Sc —
Se am
LADIES’

Vp iInch
nch

HLGVANA HOVA AO AIVH ANO

TV °ON
s1qnodg 329
 MISSES’ COSTUME.

nt.!re
6°)

Fre
er|of

YE
Space
Seam.

vi
vA 163/4 : 1512
i ; /
NiiN wih

MISSES’ COSTUME.
Use the scale corresponding with the
bust measure to draft the basque and
sleeves, which consist of front, back and
side back and sleeve.
This is a straight, round basque with
diagonal front. “SASS1S ath
-
The skirt is given on page 29. Draft
1-NOLLNIN
53
by the waist measure; is in one piece; }--------------------..___
gather very full in the back. Any style :
of trimming may be used. Regulate the
length by the tape measure.

S
TCCClaeeae CPT
“She
Bis

'
oa
'
'
!
!
i}
|
1
1
1
5
'
i
--------------
ey Inch Seam.+ 'T-yowa See
SS
Ss

28 / Winter 1890-91
 MISSES’ COSTUME—Continued.
48°/4

118%
Center

ONE
Front.
of

HALF
NO.10
Cut
Double

OF
F SKIRT
2%
8 2”

2%

1
60%

7,

h 16% A
47
53

39%
a

Winter 1890-91 / 29
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

4+
i
i}
I
!
|
\
i)

thers. \
12° nch Seam. {apr
Hale hater?

_34 Space Seam.

LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

Use the bust measure to draft the
basque, which consists of five pieces:
Front, back, side-back, under-arm-gore,
and sleeve.
This basque gives the bias effect. In
cutting the front lay the front edge of
the pattern on the straight edge of the
SLE EVE

goods, which will bring it bias under the

arm.
The skirt is givenon page 31. Draft by
the waist measure; b) is in two pieces, front
and back. Lay the pleats in the front
according to the notches, lay the back in
two double box pleats, cut the foundation
skirt from any plain skirt pattern, trim
the bottom of the skirt with pleating, vel-
vet, astrachan or braiding. Regulate the
length by the tape measure.

30 / Winter 1890-91
LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.—Continued.

apt

30%
Cut Double

27 % 24%
7
21%.
OF

/
19%
PLAITING
ONE
Box Plait

HALF

13% 11
V/
FOR

8
BACK.

5A
1”, In. Seam
45%
4514

2) dv S ~ o ral ° nl ea == =| ~~

Winter 1890-91 / 31
 LADIES’ COSTUME.
-
ie)
Ss fc aJ
?
>

FAN
ii
=
je“
ze
een
a

Lasts)

bal t

co ' >
” cy eal Se —— ES |
&
Be
[ee]
fF
© o
e
-
o
i oh
ana
9+-----
e-------=--
~~
ig
Le 2 ake S o @
ie » »

LADIES’ COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure

to draft the entire waist, which consists of upper and
under front, upper and under back, side back, under-
arm-gore and two sleeve portions. Cut the entire
costume on the bias. Lay the pleats on the shoulder
according to the notches. Close the under front or
lining down the center of the front. Face the oo ----------- 2
upper front on the left side from the neck to the
waist, and close with buttons on the left shoulder
and uuder the arms. Finish bottom with a velvet
girdle or velvet ribbon, with a bow and long ends in
the back. The skirt is in one piece; Draft with 634 —24--.. 8.32... 63/4
waist measure. Lay the pleats in front according to
the notches; gather the back very full and sew to
the waist.

Double.
Cut

32 / Winter 1890-91
 LADIES’ COSTUME—Continued.

Inch Seam?

1 i'iH i| 1/2 ft Inch Séam.

8/4 Space’ a o 3 g
41/5
ig
is
ia
1pig
Jeg

'S

13g
3
52

4831/2
481/2

4753/4

48
ay
2a
/4,

Winter 1890-91 / 33
 BOY’S SUIT.

No. E 12.
Seah
--——~
Tneb
Double.
Cut
4/2
Waist Line. +

BOYS’ COSTUME. ------4-----

Use the scale corresponding with the ano a aa
bust measure to draft the entire coat 2a
and under waist. The coat consists of
front, back, collar and two sleeves. L
The under waist is in two pieces, front hh
and back. Draft this the same as all
%49
other garments. Finish the edges of
the coat with a binding or stitching. No. E 12.
Draft the skirt by the waist measure.
SeO™-
Yoon
Jo
Lay the pleats according to the notches, Va
one large box pleat in the front and
smaller ones in the back. Press care-
fully and sew tothe waist. Regulate the
length by the tape measure.

etGe
“=

COLLAR.

No.
E 11.

eon 5{| 94/2

Ip
ined
ome

20g
la
XO
qeeld 4yeold
xo XO
Weld XOg
*yeolq “4e9
FOR
eld

34 / Winter 1890-91
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the

Bust measure to draft the entire Basque,
which consists of Front, Back, Side-back,
Under-arm Gore, Collar and Sleeve por-
tions. Any style of trimming may be
used on the waist that is desirable. If
made of large plaid, no trimming is re-
quired. Gather the sleeves very full just
on top. Put a layer of wadding on the
upper part to make it stand up nicely.
Cut the sleeves on the bias.
The drapery is given on page 37.
Draft by the waist measure. Is in two
pieces, front and back. Make the pleats on the front to come on the right or left side, just to suit the
wearer. The back is laid in two double box pleats.
The diagrams for the underskirt are given on page 36. Draft by the waist measure. Trim to suit.
Regulate length by the tape measure.

Spring 19r / 35
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

aVTI09
me
96°ON
a

1278 +- ----------------------}
sy,

3nD
etqnog

atqnod
3nD

NM It es esti 2Wf
re em we eae ee ee ee

36 / Spring r89r
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

Cut Double

BACK DRAPERY

BOX PLAIT

if In. Seam

FRONT DRAPERY

No.Cl

feme
eta!
Re=
a

sit 3
ROG
ysween
‘4
—

Spring 189t / 37
 LADIES’ HOUSE DRESS.

or '
15/3 at ah oes =e eee ee 2

BACK
YOKE |
71/6 |---~----~--~---~-~--- f----- 4\e

No. F 6
15/8 mere te ae kes Bye
ia > Soave a 7Ye

—ae—--+----

Sew to belt

NO.38G sh

Draft the waist and sleeves by

the scale corresponding with the Se
Space

bust measure, it consists of yoke

8/4 CUT
DOUBLE
ai Ne
and shirring for front and back )
Sew to belt 9%,
collar and two sleeve portions eee 19%, 1974
Gather the shirring portions at the top and sew to the yoke. Gather the bottom between the notches
and sew to the belt. This may be made to open in the back for a miss or in front for a lady. If it is
made to open in front take the hem off the back and cut the goods double, and allow the hem in front
1% space hem. Gather the sleeves at the top between the notches.
Draft the skirt by the scale corresponding with the waist measure, it consists of front and back. Take
up the darts in front, lay small pleats in the back turning toward the center of the back. Do not make
the back over 6 inches wide after it is all pleated. Trim the bottom to suit. Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

38 / Spring 1891
 LADIES’ HOUSE DRESS—Continued.

\
¥ igInch 8
‘3173/4
191/4

1/2 Inch g

SADT ®AOT +e sg /sZ

BZ
eE oO a ° & a 4 & k eq

ba1919
1 H ' i! 1! SS
i}

BACK
OF SKIRT

>
aN ~h1 ! 1 i] | 1 ! ! ' 1 ! ' : ' ! ! 1r 5 :} ! : '
ei19

eyqnog

329

29/2
i)&
@Q _ ae

Spring 1891 / 39
 MISSES’ STREET COSTUME.

ay 12

Use the scale corresponding with the Bust measure to

draft the entire Basque, which consists of two Fronts, two
Backs, Side-back, Under-arm-gore, two gathered portions
Collar, Cuff and Sleeve.
The Basque can be made of plain white goods. The
center front and back, and the gathered portions are
made of the embroidery. Bring the fullness nearly all
on the shoulder. Gather the sleeves be-
ween the notches.
The skirt is given on page 42. Draft by
the waist measure. ‘Trim the front with
embroidery flouncing, or simply make it
of the embroidery skirting. Bring the full-
ness in the back. Or it may be made of
plain goods with one, two or three ruffles
of the embroidery. Regulate the length
to suit.

40 / Spring 1891
 = R iz: MDEX )Oo
FA
lam Fr]Fe]EX
A= = ® wo}
"i

oO q a)

S|:ayer

re
a)
aft

aa!
=

oD
ae)ee

e
oi
\ /' wt

‘
'i
o
| | ee
oa}
¢

i oe ' 1SSf

L,
ce
H ' 1

O
2z
eee
a81

= a se \ i \
4 ey Han 1siz (eaTarea imry tik i 3| en i ae 1A,
<i

a)
ci

tt
ce
ee 9

| 1
1
'
Wee

JON
7 oanLJ
|
= i Meee
=~

:
T
=
i}

ete
autem

era
1 ' { ‘ i f 1 ' | | H eee
x

at
a
16

1
61/4
ge
Z ie ee aoa 1694
=

ie)
:

ee
ans
ees
a19 a]
’ 1 H H 1 \ 1 4 1 i aoa
es bose) ae ou!
fs a 25

2
2

° >.
N
<q
\at
!
=

6Y2
a
©

!
i
1
—

14
44no
Os

‘ON 11
:
F
;
;

ne x} 0 ~a
1714

27

Spring 189 / 41
 MISSES’ COSTUME—Continued.
20
NS a}

No. Al
SIDE GORE

ss
Ho
|
<
i
1
6Q
io
<
fA
fe
°
Double
Cut Fa
4
a
ee
-——.
I
=-—_——
A
°

ONE HALF OF FRONT.

No. Al

Cut Double
20

CHILD’S CHEMISE AND DRAWERS.

Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure to

draft the chemise, which consists of one piece. The back
and front are cut alike. Regulate the length to suit.
The drawers are drafted by the waist measure. Make
allowance for the tucks.

14
a
ee a we ewe -

ONE HALF OF CILILD’S DRAWERS A

<
os) 4 CHILD'S
Sal
M s CHEMISE,
=
<
>
Doible.
Cut

42 / Spring 1891
 CHILD’S STREET COSTUME.

Be oe
‘
\
1 23/4

Double
Cut
Seam
Space
4

Seen!

314 138A
53/4 fyi n. Seam \
--/2 10 Wekseeooao

none
ae
' ‘
\
21
Re re‘o
g! 4 o!
baal
A 1.3
Use the scale corresponding with the gs; ig Bi

ey ftue
O1

Bust measure to draft the entire waist, Bee

at iB
which consists of upper and under fronts a) id
8| He
and backs. a2! 1H
iP ana’s
Gather
Pa) i
Turn the upper portions down on the ion
!
1
1
i) 1
first dotted line. Shirr on the second line 1
if
'
'
\ \
and sew to the dotted line on the under Gj) BSene re eaeste
1
front and back. Get sleeve diagrams on '
\
‘
\
' |
page 44 of this issue, or any other sleeve wee en wee
i
ee Jj e—--
'
t=—

desirable.
1
'
i]

The skirt is drafted by the waist

1
\
i
Seam
ace
measure; is in one piece; only one-half of
'
\
'

the skirt is given. There are two large 1

'

‘
'
box pleats, one on each side. Side pleat- '
t
i
\
ing in the front and back. This is a '
1 93/4 34Space
pon
eeeSea:
ee ae
1
beautiful little costume when properly t
'

made.
i]

Sees eRe Se +{ 22/4

Regulate the length to suit. 2038/4 15/4 221/2
Sa 13/4

= =wt
is}
a wt
=
RY =
a
Ce)
@ '
a
oD a
oO (aa! eat ina} a S re)
7 3 v

“f
eolq
xog
BY

_ OVER HIP

No.
F 8 Hovg
193099
Jo
Centeriof-Front

Spring 1891 / 43
 HAGAHIS

GENTLEMEN’S NIGHT SHIRT.

Use the scale corresponding with the chest measure.

Is in five pieces: Front, Back, Collar, Pocket and one-half of Sleeve.
We deem it unnecessary to give a description of the different parts,
as any seamstress will know how to put the different parts together.
The seams are all marked.
The front is cut open down to the notch at 15 on base line.
The sleeve and cuff are cut together. Gather the sleeve at the top
to fit the arm size.
Regulate the length with the tape line.

8
274,274

44 / Spring r89r
 GENTLEMEN’S NIGHT SHIRT—Continued.
2%.

1l

W alist line

o Walst line

2a
=

if
—
am

i=)
_
i=] ™m No.7 H
|
()
73
Inch —&en

ae
| | | | | | | | |

110; Inch
3%| | | | | | | | | z

32%

eTqnog yn9D
|
|
|
|

Spring 189r / 45
 GENTLEMEN’S DRESSING GOWN.

Is in eight pieces: Front, Back, Collar, two Pocket

L aps and two Sleeve portions.
Is drafted upon the general plan.
Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.

54

hs,
mes
_|—
qour

Waist Line

46 / Spring 1891
 LADIES’ SACK NIGHT GOWN.

i]A
——

‘
_-—

ot
_—— oy| g!
F < al
e 3 a
—_-—

Use the scale corresponding with the bust

i)
\
i
measure to draft the entire garment, which 1 Ue eo 15
consists of five pieces: Front, Back, Collar \
Sleeve and Cuff. \
This is drafted out the same as all other \
garments. Gather the sleeve at the bottom \
and sew to the cuff, and gather between the
notches at the top and sew in the arm’s eye.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.

Double
Cut

Spring t89r / 47
 LADIES’ HOUSE DRESS.
— Sh eh ds 4% 11% 8% _5% 8%
Va

£
&
a
e 3
2 fo
5 2
a bi @
<
&
fy
;<
oa

Fy 4 ie 7)
2 ms A
> fe
°

:
NS
:
3
6
Hy ms
IN IN °
as
ay Fo
:
‘FISN
SX
NAS o
NSS

ee MS a RY Ie 47%
. 40% 351,84 2927% 92% 18 18 lim 6%6 48%

Use the scale corresponding with the

bust measure to draft the waist and sleeves,
which consists of front and back yoke,
shirring for front and back, collar, cuff
and sleeve. Gather the shirred portions
at the top and sew to the yoke. Lay in
side pleats at the waist line. Hem or face
the bottom. Gather or pleat the sleeves
between the notches. Gather the bottom
and sew to the cuff.
Draft the skirt with the scale corre- 18/4
sponding with the waist measure. Lay
the pleats according to the notches, turn
the pleats toward the center of the front,
make two double box pleats in the back.
Regulate the length to suit.

ere
Seam_
-

—19%
In.
Ve
=

Spring 189r
 LADIES’ HOUSH DRESS—Continued.

“LNOYS
YO
JIWH-3NdO

193090
JO
"yaoi
ONILVAT
etqnog

7 ‘ae eeeek a oe
3np

No. BS
No.B5xX
ite)> =~ -- ---—~~-~-~~~~~~----|5 4

SHIRRING FOR FRONT

¥ 1
% 13 Gather to this notch
Waist line

Spring 1891 / 49
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

|
aWII09

fone

Use the scale corresponding with the

bust measure to draft the entire waist and
jacket. The jacket consists of front,
back, side-back, under-arm-gore, collar,
facing for front and two sleeve portions.
Cut the desired length. The diagrams
for the sleeves are given on page 52 of
this issue. Gather or pleat v ery full on
the top between the notches. The waist
is given on page 51. There are two
fronts, back, side-back, under-arm-gore
and collar. Use any sleeve desirable.
Shirr the upper front at the neck and
waist. The diagrams for the drapery are
shown on page 52. Draft the waist
measure. Lay the pleats according to
the notches. Make the length of the e
skirt. Use the scale corresponding with i
the waist measure to draft the skirt, is
given on page 53 of this issue. This FACING F
skirt is made with a yoke. Regulate the AND C
jength with the tape measure.

50 / Spring 1891
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued,

SHIRRING FOR FRONT

No. BS ~~—2
Seam
Pace

“48
eS

Nis,
8&4
Seam
Space

WAIST LINE

——— 4——-——
«— Space Seam

Spring T89t / 51
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME--Continued.

53/6

Bees pup:

Me
meer
nea
taoee
4+
‘
Center of Front
HB
Xo

|
Weeg

ONE HALE
UL

4 S fy iS) =| fQ 4 2) S|
-) fy Ay SI a Lon!& =
\
7,

° >ef
foal

3n9
e1qnog

“<< eee nn - -- t-

52 / Spring 1891
 LADIES’ YOKE SKIRT.

—
—_—_.
—_——
—

eea nl
= ee es aoe
—_——

aranod
_—

qu09
SS

VON
9

IO
AAMIS
_——_—_
—_—_—~—
—_—
—

oo s
——_——. _—_—

Cut Double

fo)a e. se z. fa 6 A < o < & fe & a = a x

Top of Skirt

Y, In. Seam

Spring T89t / 53
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

Draft the entire waist by the

scale corresponding with the Bust
measure. It consists of Front and
Back and two portions for the
yoke lining, collar and three
sleeve portions. Shirr the front and
back at the neck as many times as
desired and sew to the lining.
The sleeves are given on page
55. Gather or pleat the large por-
tion, or Balloon sleeve, from one
point to the other, not the old-fash-
ioned way of gathering, just on
the top to make it stand up high;
the new sleeves are not high, but
flat and full to give them a broad
appearance.
The skirt is given on page 56.
Draft by the waist measure. Any
other skirt may be used if more
desirable. The skirts are very
wide this spring. The one piece
skirt is used very much, making
it five yards wide at the bottom.
Gather the back very full. Regu-
late length by the tape-measure.

54 / Spring 1893
LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

SLEEVE
LINING

2
Inch
Seam

pats

Spring 1893 / 55
 50 a
creme eLt/,
/ =
ti
es Se Se Et (pea nT ae
/
f/ :
/ aS
ii
Eu EN
BLOT ies (ah
eee en ee pes eee
; = ones Tee
/
t
/
/
COSTUME—Continued.

/
sx S=-S= Bese = Se SS SS = ee
ViGr seme Le Sj = SSS
9
7a
ig -*
fi
ig /2
/
/
ve
/
eeeiy F
ip cies
mae
= = aye aR Gs a oer cn ee al ee pe rs
i
‘St
jt
1S
Va 1 1 ON
am
/
/
STREET

4fac I
CA rile earner 4------------ 4 ----------- t- - 5-58
ip -- ois
ue
‘LUIS 1134
/
hi
‘
LADIES’

z 4O JIVWH-3NO
/
/
BAST Ser +---------- 4+-—-—=5--- =
LDS Vs 4+----------- +e Se 60
‘
West ako
Wel) 2==a
SASL o \
\
eee) SAS
ter ~~ —S—> Wh

56° / “Spr ing I 893

8 veel a
shel She
= = oth
Heb
Wee aig ,
‘uoiq JO 193u9Q ‘eTqnog 4noO ee
Vv
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.
3%

. SS
ee. ||| | ! | ||| ! ats
x 8
ih Cy
é Se
een
AN n
re °
y A
iy
‘N \eWoe q| In
al

aN Sore 8”
1/
a.

Use the scale corresponding with

the Bust Measure to draft the entire
Basque and Jacket. The Basque
is given on page 57- It consists of
Front, Back, Side-back and Under-
arm-gore. This is a perfectly plain
waist, with a coat-tail back. The
upper portions of the front may be
turned back to form revers, and a
full pointed vest inserted, which
always makes a pretty finish to the
front. The sleeves are given on
page 59-
The Jacket is given on page 58.
It consists of Front, Back, Collar
and Two Sleeve Portions. This is
a half-fitting Jacket. Leave the
seams open from the notches down.
If made of very light weight goods,
line it with silk or silkaline. The
collar is given on page 59.
The skirt is given on page 59.
Draft by the waist measure. Trim
to suit. Regulate length by the
tape measure.

Spring 1893
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME«-Continued.

ig
||SLEEVE:
on
I
ie

o
|fe)q

58 / Spring 1893
 Spring 1893 / 59
44
SLEEVE

ONE-HALF OF aoe 1181/2

COSTUME—Continued.

BELL SKIRT. ee
STREET
LADIES’
- ee
-----—----+----— = +- = -- - =
+ et -—
 LADIES’ RECEPTION GOWN.

Use the scale corresponding with the

Bust measure to draft the entire garment,
which consists of Upper and Under Fronts
and Shirring for Front, Back, Side-Back,
two Cuff Portions, Sleeve Puff and two
Sleeve Portions for the lining.
The Back gives the pointed train effect.
Place the waist line on the straight of the
goods. Shirr the portions given for that
purpose and join in the under-arm dart.
Fasten at the waist and just over the
bust with jeweled embroidery, also trim
the deep sleeve cuffs with the same
Finish the inside of the cuff with fancy
buttons. Gather the puff at the top and
bottom and fasten to the lining. Finish
the bottom with a band and let the cuffs
come over it. Fit the cuff very closely at
the wrist.
This Sleeve is suitable for almost any
garment except an outside wrap.
Regulate the length by the tape measure,

60 / Spring 1893
 LADIES’ RECEPTION GOW N—Continued.

No.
X HI
a re

oo)
ist
Gemese soeds be

=e
Waist Line
|
=

2
meg

LJ
*) ii
2 (0)
your Zt

Spring 1893 / O61

 LADIES’ RECEPTION GOWN—Continued.

aes 3
a ey A/4 Space Scam

FOR FRONT.
SHERRING
Waist
Line
o 3 ~ A } 3 2 a©

153)
5 41/4

E} 2 to) nm bey° i2) H kd

SLEEVE
LINING

62 / Spring 1893
 MISSES’ STREET COSTUME.

Teury
iste
ry wl
a & fe} oO
a!
n

Use the scale corresponding with

the Bust measure to draft the entire
Waist and Jacket. The Jacket is
given on page 63. It consists of Front,
Back, Side-Back and Three Sleeve
Portions. Line the Jacket with silk.
Gather the lower portion of the full
sleeve and sew it to the lining. Gather
AA
ISIE
SUIT
the top between notches.
The Waist is given on page 65.
=

Gather the upper parts and sew to the ei

wo

yoke. Gather the bottoms and sew to

a belt. The Under Waist or Lining
is given on page 64.
The skirt is given on page 65.
Draft by the waist measure. It is
simply a straight piece of goods, the
ength and width required.

Spring 1893 / 63
 MISSES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

y
<l we

Oe
| | | | || 1 |

iesLs
na wo
aCe

|
eeSee
Gates Reet
lseam____

uvaghionr
leaee =

SLEEVE
| iS)|
Paz |

13
10
ee
Ge
\ = oor
ole
—

Noten
PigBe
Paty

Di
| B\2 ale

=
aor
eee
cin

aee
APAE

19

1B
1
aoudy WIG

‘yavas 29803
eee

arqnog

SS
— 0

ing
5

64 / Spring 1893
 MISSES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

FRONT
—_—
SHIRRING FOR BACK
s
aed
SHIRRING FOR FRONT

Double
Cut
2ues
SS No.9
E X

Shirr ang Sew

to Skirt

Cut

2,06

ONE HALF OF SKIRT

Spring 1893 / 65
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

3
eee “4 Space Seam

|
|
|

[e)
Cee

“ON
Ol
Ad
X

bo
®/0

Use the scale corresponding with

the Bust measure to draft the entire
waist, which consists of Two Fronts»
Back, Side-Back, Collar, Full Front
and Three Sleeve Portions. Cut the
Back double, gather the full front, sew
it to the Under-front or lining on the Cut Double x
8
me
fee
eeee
ee
/

right side. Fasten on the left side oot te : DENG

Mee
iS
with hooks and eyes. The Upper- sR
fronts should be fastened invisibly.
The skirt is given on page 68, Draft by the scale corresponding with the Waist measure. This is
one of the new style skirts that gives the full effect below the knee. The top may be gathered if desir-
able. The darts do away with the fullness at the waist. Any style of trimming may be used. The
velvet bands or folds are very pretty. Another pretty way of trimming these skirts is to trim with
gathered ruffles half way to the waist, making them four or six inches apart. Face the bottom with
canyas or stiff crinoline nearly to the knee, to make it flare out. Regulate the length by the tape measure,

66 / Spring 1893
 Spring 1893 / 67
Between No,
a Ve ot ee NO ees
ec. 2
oe Ley
32 SLEEVE 3: SLEEVE
91 LINING ; LINING
COSTUME—Continued,

5 \o ic}!a |> °|B | | |

STREET

oe
LADIES’

ae ulBeg doudg ¥/s calSI A

NO.5 @ COLLAR
etanog 3p Ras-—-—, - ---— = 3

eee

ee
aati
weIg

caeiC
YoUT

Sy
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

Center of Front Join Back

Cut on the

68 / Spring 1893
 CHILD'S BLOUSE COSTUME.
3% 3
»

CNo. C
No.

Double
Cut

BACK
WAIST
BLOUSE

a sew to Banh, * ather and sew to Band.

eae 1 is 4M
: : 5
Use the scale corresponding with the *
Bust measure to draft the entire Waist,
Jacket and Sleeves. The Blouse con- a
. rel/
sists of Front and Back; the Jacket vA
YLEEV
Front, Back, Collar and two Sleeve ig g|
. I H
portions. Gather the lower part of || (3 i | |
S Ie 2]
the blouse and sew to a band or insert si els4 A 10% JACKET BACK
an elastic. ¥ V2 No. C
The Skirt is simply a straight piece \
of goods the length and width desired. \ —

Trim to suit. |
Cut Double,
SS "
eae 19 we rae Se
6%4 5%57/2 ASS oa

ee
<
=
<
fo)
s)
Double
Cut

Spring 1893 / 69
 LADIES’ MORNING GOWN

&=
B2G
PiesNe

Oy Vv
nes

nA

baw
fe)
=o
a &

cartel)

ia
zs

mOUn
SOs sUREY
© Escvayd
Brea
ied
>

(Stet
Ge
~
wo?
o

Oa
ae

Ee
ae
5s
nop

Bees
oO Sees
sn

Se
= yo)
Ses
U's
ec
oe) sks
0
ty
eS
To
es
ees ee)
Ae)
parines Se 4.
tars
LOR 2aCc
oOv Low
ocr
if so stitch a piece of
cloth on
eoQeeg
oD
the Geos
wrong
BELot side to
Dae
Oe) A

Vv eS ioc
Sp ase Crone.
B.E§
re an
y~Cher jot

» Cie Te
ee

BOESLS
vu S ess
ee eee Saree aaPoMwe-n
4 ee
YVASWy
SShag “G--
eo SoU
o
sesa
nM

&+-
ors
Say
oS
oopeemion! Ses

5 eee
o_

0 Ye
+~
fo]
ate
Mig
on
oe
ee SD)
es
om
ise} iS
ge)
eee)
avy aon
teh
yey
Kos
Se
Lseo
suit.
Regulate the length by
the tape-measure.

|Aiea ae 1b mm ch Seam
=o

70 / Spring 1893
LADIES’ MORNING GOWN —Continued.

TOP OF SKIRT

iha <<
° oO,
|

eTanod 3n9:

479A 20%
91/2

ms Pace Seam
Waist
Line

CUT DOUBLE

Spring 1893 / 71
 BOY’S SUIT.

Seam
o
°
S ees fron
of
a ee
a
N UNDER WAIST
3
No. A 9

Sa Centre

Use the scale corresponding

with the chest measure to draft
the under-waist and jacket.
SS ele oe ae ee

The jacket consists of Front,

<—
Back, Collar and two Sleeve
portions. Draft the same as
all other garments. Trim the
front on the dotted line to imi-
tate a coat and vest. Se
ps
mi
lp
a
aeam
10?
Draft the pants by the hip
Ve
Inch;)s
measure; they are given on
page 73—front, back, waist-
SS
ee
=a

band and fly. Take measures

from outside or inseam; may
be made long or knee pants.
Regulate the length with the
tape measure.

72 | Spring 1893
 BOYS’ SUIT—Continued.

fe
2

ee
\4
\
\ MA
iG\ 1% 4%
14%
—_— —— —a
ee

YL
SE

cleo

wees
Your
Zit

Spring 1893 / 73
 MISSES’ EMPIRE GOWN.

RN
ESS V4

NaN Se
ee BAC
amare
ys
BRATS tj
Ph MY
RRO
Wy)
ii

Seam
Sp.

Use the scale corresponding with the

Bust measure to draft the entire gar-
ment, which consists of Front, Back
and two Shirred portions, two Sleeve 12
portions and Puff. Turn down the 198
shirred portions and shirr on third
line. Sew to the waist. Gather the
bottom also. The Skirt is simply a
straight piece of goods the length
and widthdesired. Gather at the top
and sew to the waist. Finish witha
wide folded belt, which may fasten
in the back or may tie with a large Double
Cut
bow and long ends.

Cut Double

SLEEVE PUFF
NO.3 F

gl
7 3th

Ve Inch Seam
as pea
19
of"

74 / Spring 1893
 LADIES’ COSTUME.
ge ee
n. Seam

TAaQND
AAMAS

Gn

et

74 ~— — 41}

ae
8

22
SS ae ea 33
FRONT YOKE
No. 13 0
4g
Tee ' |
53
7

Use the scale corresponding with the Bust Measure to draft the entire Waist and Sleeves, which consist
of Front and Front Yoke, Back and Back Yoke, Collar and Sleeve. This gives the round Yoke effect
which is very becoming to slender forms. Stout forms should always wear pointed Yokes and Waists.
The Skirt is drafted by the scale corresponding with the Waist Measure. This is what is called the
seven gore skirt. Each piece is marked where it joins. Gather the extra fullness at the top and sew to
the band, allowing it to fall easy all around. Make it clear the floor. Trim to suit. Regulate the length
by the tape-measure.

Summer 1893 / 75
 LADIES’ COSTUME—Continued.

sovdg weeg
No. 13 O

W%

1/2 Inch Seam Join Side Gore

76 / Summer 1893
LADIES’ COSTUME—Continued.

FRONT
Joi n Side¢Gore

Cut Double

meog your alt quoi uror

=<

Summer 1893 / 77
 CHILD’S EMPIRE DRESS.

SLEEVE

scanct
In.
In.

a
Use scale corresponding with the Bust Meas-
ure to draft the entire garment, which consists
of Front, Back, Yoke and Sleeve. Gather the
front and back, and sew to the round yoke.
Trim the yoke with lace to form a bertha.
Gather the sleeves one or more times, just to
suit. Trim with a frill of lace also. Regulate
the length by the tape-measure.

3 alee =fen ee
ew to the Yoke

I
|
|
|
|
q |
5|
|
|
3/4
Space
§

Cut
Double

Double
Cut

78 / Summer 1893
 STOUT LADIES’ COSTUME.

=
=
eee = rm
E. (ane hSe
z “Seam
= |
= SIDE BACK
H es
| Ss
i) 1 |
!
t
—
=
pat WD
| —
>
to bo aa Se te
& »»S w

Y]

‘|ty
i)
mii)

Use the scale corresponding with the

Bust Measure to draft the entire Waist
and Sleeves, which consist of Front, Back,
Side-Back, two under arm Gores, Collar
and two Sleeve Portions. Do not use
this for a Bust less than 36 inches. It is
especially for stout forms. This is a
straight round Basque, but can be shaped
to suit the wearer. Gather the Sleeve at
the top, bring most of the fullness at the fcom
fpuce

sides to make it droop over the arm.

Any style of decoration may be used, but /Waisi .™e
/
flat trimmings are more becoming to
stout forms. The Skirt in given on page
81. Draft by the Waist Measure. If
more fullness is desired'-two side Gores
may be cut instead of one. ‘Trim to suit.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.

Summer 1893 / 79
 STOUT LADIES’ COSTUME—Continued.

LETS
ie
” _ LJ uJ > Ld

ee
Your
a By
ee
4

1
_—_—o CO S21
4

oin front)
84,bee Seam
174,
16%4

80 / Summer 1893
 STOUT LADIES’ COSTUME—Continued.

108,
leie
fifIs 1
‘ g ch Seam Fe EE
5 Is lsg i 8

ONE HALF OF FRONT

we /4%,
14
9

Cvt Double
——_—_—_——— -- .. tay,

i & = eeaw[3
9&
le
a
"
4= a

Isat i lg|
; =
Joo

SIDE

GORE

Xe
ww Eeo z'8)
Sol-
Etg|
4a a|3 8 Le) let.

Tall,
}10

Ss~ “ =
LEY,

—s
4
17%,

ONE
MALF
Top of Skirt

OF
BACK

BREADTH

r meS a
H5
oe
=~ -
Join Side Gore

Summer 1893 / 81
 LADIES STREET COSTUME.

5%

|:
=>eam

| | 72Inch
& 5s

we
t
=

fi%
Hi

A Space
Seam
3
=— q #4 yy a, ‘
fp Pa ify ey)
YY Isis WH y yy
WithAAA
so LL /, UA

PSS

ee
Se

Use the scale corresponding with

the Bust Measure to draft the entire
Waist, which consists of under Front,
right and left Front, Back, Side-back,
under-arm Gore and Bretelle. Gather
the right Front at the Waist line be-
tween the notches. Gather the Bretelle
on the dotted line and sew to the Waist. Uaemjeq
I9NIeH
BoYoION
Allow it to extend across the Back. It
may be put on rounding or straight 83
across; this makes a very pretty finish
to any Waist. Use any full sleeve
given; the one on page 88 is a good
one; gather it through the center to Ba aR : Se Se, ee
form two Puffs. Draft the Skirt by Dee
the Waist Measure; is in two pieces.
This may be simply trimmed to repre- was | m
sent an Overskirt; or cut two Fronts, ER ae ee | Over ae =e a
cut one double down the center, and para se be H BI.
cut the other open. Trim with folds, re | 2 | BRETELLE
velvet or braid. Regulate the length). 0e=2-—| pp pet .
to suit. eseus | Cres be

82 / Summer 1893
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

v
mesg cords ¢
—S — 9 —

oor!
|

Waist \Lin
e 4 i

- oO a i?)& i?) x“ ow.=

BACK
OF SKIRT

mp
eTqnog

Summer 1893 / 83
 GENTLEMAN’S PRINCE ALBERT COAT.
Use the scale corresponding with
Chest measure to draft the entire ee es Lo en eS
garment, which consists of Front,
Back, Side Back, Lap for the Front,
Collar, Coat Skirt and two Sleeve
portions.
We also give a work Blouse (by
request). Draft by Chest measure;
is in five pieces, % of Waist, Sleeve,
Collar, Yoke and Front Lap. The
Yoke extends across the Back and
over the Shoulder. The Sleeves
for the Coat are given on page 85,
also the work Blouse.

Waist Line

Seam
Inch}
4

Waist Line

84 / Summer 1893
 GENTLEMAN’S PRINCE ALBERT COAT—Continued.

— See A,
Gather to Notch 18
|

|
|
|
| -

|
|
| Double
Cut
I
|
|
lgis
|3
|E
|a tars
|

§
Sew
Sleeve
between
10

3
Seam
in,

Q cS) cnby ® 4 + ° ° osis}

i ol
i
|
16@-------—- ---------;
\

SLEEVE

No.
16 O

3/g
Seam
in.

Summer 1893 / 85
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

= ein seamal

ANZ)in
AX va

{\ oe
S Ye.

AX \S y AY

(Dp \

AW

Use scale corresponding with the Bust

measure to draft the waist and sleeves,
which consists of Front, Back, Side-back,
Collar and Sleeve. This is a pointed
back and two points in front. Shape the
bottom to suit. The sleeve is gathered
between notches, over the top and down
the sides. Lay the pleats in the Derby
Cape according to the notches. Line
with contrasting material.
The Skirt is given on page 87. _ Draft
by the waist measure, trim with scant
deep flounces, or any other style. If the
flounces are not used, put in an extra
breadth in the center of back to give the
required fullness.
Regulate the length by the tape-
measure.

86 / Summer 1893
 | ‘ 0) ee Hi 12) a fz] a =e) is3
%S -

| +9. | 4994

IVR
\Na‘
---------

et
-
te—--
Ic
ce ere
ee
oe

=
OE oe Cut

Pe
ey BELL
ONE-HALF 4+-----—------
Double.

aed No.
Center
cot
Ba 1 SKIRT.
0
PI
Eee 1. of
gungae PD
OF
Front.

;
oe)

ee ne

/
--=----- ne
i,
9/ Sa. eet

aes o
/ =
Nt

we

oD)
or s ee
+--+
BRS J
Fa
/ ‘ Rt
+e-—
Tea Tp
6/2
Es
=
-
=
3, e—
a
ae
7-H
ie EAi 2
appa
K—

: ‘i~~
-
4 -
Ee i
'e)
4 i \
27s
37~--|43/4
PEA
78)1 A
los
56ya
/ ee,
188 4133/4
62Y2 18Y/2
417 |>/2
te
ee
SS
ea
Seen!
een
39
2a
ey
eS
ar
sy
.
ee
ae
se 20 zig
Y
zet
BTS
dt
epee
ee
es
4812
1a
Sa
_
39Y2
=
nota
ee
No.9
1X

Summer 1893 / 87
 3AS31S

88 / Summer 1893
LADIES’
STREET

&T Or

Iseam__——
Inch 12
LADIES’ FULL SLEEVE

LINING
SLEEVE

| | | | Sy
| | |
\ Si wuvaglqour
COSTUME—Continued.

ee es eel
Hiss Ss Veoisn
= ce et S = 1 al | ©
= [o) Seal rls
ler oe ©
mo © olleo} Back
of Center
peer i ©
19 o ipo aise a
5 rR Oe ae |
| © ahaa neg We |
| 8 + i; oe to
| aa = : >o |
B\% | Wl |
o
ae ee [Ee
| Le ae ODI =
ee eae eee asy
ft OD it rajou =<
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

24
mivog
‘ny

“xl

Naa
aee
ef

Use the scale corresponding with the

Bust measute to draft the entire Basque,
which consists of Front, Back, Side-
back, Collar, Coat or (Basque) Skirt
and two Sleeve portions.
Fit the waist perfectly. Lap the
fronts from right to left. Button or
hook down the side. After lining the
skirt with silk to make it fall in grace-
ful waves sew to the waist. It may be
finished all around with stitching.
The upper sleeve is laid in box pleats
according to the notches. The notches
represent the pleats, and the stars the
under side of the pleat.
The Skirt is given on page gI.
Ӵ
Draft by the Waist measure. Is in two
pieces—Gored Front and Bell Back.
Gather the center of the back from the
notch. Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

Spring 1894 / 89
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

ONE HALF OF COAT SKIRT.

— 72%
27

go / Spring 1894
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

1, In. Seam

47%
48'A
47%

BACK BREADTH
OF SKIRT.

61%

Spring 1894 / 91
 LADIES PRINCESS GOWN.
’

wrvag*uy
1qnod

31qno Yt
yuO
37
urvag
‘ay

SAN
pre
‘4

HT
4ff

Use the scale corresponding with the bust

measure to draft the entire garment, which
consists of Right, Left and under, Right
Front, Back, Side-back, Collar and two Sleeve
portions, This is drafted the same as all other
garments., Lay the pleats in the back accord-
ing the notches, forming two double box pleats.
1 il
Gather the right front at the shoulder to fit under front.
a os gesBone
ginning at 19% on base-line, fasten on left side with a hook and loop. Lay two upward turning pleats = on right side. o~
The Skirt is given on page 94. Draft by the waist measure. Any other full skirt may be used. (9) -)o =|Has
o - O>a Rees ©& oesn ge
G8 usce
on
same length.
NO.D 2X

RIGHT
FRONT
Waist Line

FRONT
LADIES’ PRINCESS GOWN —Continued.,

< ed

RIGHT FRONT
i} \

Sean
>=
Vei

|||||| | ! +-
! =
—_gz,

Seam
-

Gene
Spe
ee

Spring 1894 / 93
 LADIES’ PRINCESS GOWN—Continued.

ONE HALF OF
| UMBERELLA SKIRT

94 / Spring 1894
 LADIES’ COSTUME.

fe
Sees
eee

Ss

SS
sea
Ss
<F
SSS
=1
—<S
i1

Use the scale corresponding with

the bust measure to draft the entire
waist and sleeves, which consists of
Front, Back, Side-Back, Under-arm-
gore, Collar, Bretelle and three
Sleeve portions. This basque gives
the pointed effect both back and
front. Put the parts together as
usual. Whalebone every seam.
Line the bretelle with soft silk. |
|
Gather all aroune and sew to waist, Ce Dee}
a aa
forming a point both front and back. a) lg
Gather the balloon sleeve all around 3'4 iy--S 49 a%A
the top. D Q m
Tho Front of the skirt is given on ae ie
page 96. The two Side-gores and
2)
Back are given on page 97. Draft
by the waist measure. Trim to suit.
Regulate the length by the tape
measure,

Spring 1894 / 95
 LADIES’ COSTUME—Continued.

———
9 2DIg ujop--}
7A Out Double

ee
319
s7qnog

7 32 14%
___
eee
qs

89

499099
JO
quoig
g “uy of |

LINING
da

19 ~~ | | 11
|
oe

SS
SSS
~

17
——
—

“a
°ON
2
soca

45%
2 46%
|

96 / Spring 1894
 LADIES’ COSTUME—Continued.

GORE SIDE
J sor pron€ Ve In .Sei

4
2 In. Seam
18%

BACK
BREADTH
12

Spring 1894 / 97
 MISSES’ COSTUME.

D mI

Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure

to draft the entire waist and sleeves, which consists of
two Fronts, two Backs, Collar and three Sleeve por-
tions. Cut the front double and close in the back.
no.9¢ |COLLAR
oN
Gather the upper portions at the shoulders and waist
line. The upper portions and skirt may be made separate
and worn with various waists. Gather the puff for
the sleeve and sew on the dotted line, or higher upif a
deeper cuff is desired. The Skirt is given on page 99.
Draft by the waist measure.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.

UPPER BACK.

NO. GX

10% 10

Spring 1894
 MISSES’ COSTUME—Continued.

Shirr and sew to waist

ONE QUARTER OF SKIRT

SLEEVE
LINING

woul
Sit
aaag
—

ae,
oe
Ss
7i
Tichseam
1/z
Inch
Seam

Spring 1894 / 99
 LADIES’ HOUSE GOWN.
2

Double
Cut
Waist Line
34
Seam.
Space
_|

Use the scale corresponding

with the bust measure to draft
the entire waist, which consists of
Front, Back, Side-back, Collar
and two sleeve portions. This
gives the Princess effect. Cut
the front double. Close invisibly
on the feft shoulder and under the
arm. Finish the bottom with
two ruffles of Moire silk. The
sleeves are made of the same.
The Skirt is given on page rot.
Draft by the waist measure.
This is the Bell Front with a
straight back breadth. Trim the 5
bottom with a band of the Moire
silk. Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

too / Spring 1894

 / 101
44 A

Spring 1894
ee ee ee aS Ee ee 15/2
4

BREADTH
5 Os |

Center of Back Cut Double

BACK
22 eens |ste peedoda oe ROE oe ee aoe ee ee CRU al 3012

No. 15
S 50¥2

in. Seam
O |
sa No. I 5.

| |
OF

Ss
yg \:--------- 3612
ro)

| | |
HALF
= sue means -|39
a el

|
See ee oh eae

| | | | | | |
pa ‘Sie > ei > ea ra ara cin Gin ken SR

ONE
\ a4\ 4514

| | | | | | |
Se ae pwr mit uanamar ines rm ng : aia
\ ees
ae
4794, ----—
2 62
 MISSES’ EVENING GOWN.

ar ree aaa
ai
a ene —
—
a
ore a

Cut Double

Bars pat ee

Use the scale corre-

sponding with the bust
measure
to draft the entire
garment, which consists
of Front and Back for the
under waist, and Front
and Back for the over-
dress. Gather the upper Aer
portions at the top to fit Amo
the neck. It may be
gathered at the waist also
if desired. Finish the neck
with a lace bertha, put
the same lace in the arm-
holes. Drape it up to the
shoulder, make it very — 43%
full. A ribbon belt with
loops and long’ ends FRONT 5A
finishes the waist. Trim
the Skirt with riboon fe ee 6%
bows and bands. Use UNDER WAIST
any light weight material.
Regulate the length by
the tape measure.
J
=
NO.K 2 X
Double
Cut
|
|

102 / Spring 1894

LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale correspond-

ing with the bust measure to
draft the entire waist, jacket
and sleeves.
The jacket consists of
front, back and side-back,
under-arm-gore, collar, and
three sleeve portions; draft
same as all other garments.
Line throughout with silk,
fasten on the left shoulder
and left side. It is a tight
fitting back and half fitting
front. Trim with braiding.
Lay the sleeve in a triple
box pleat.
The waist is given on page
106. Cut the back double,
gather at waist line between
notches. Pleat the front ac-
cording to notches, lap across
the front, fasten on the side
with a belt and _ rosette.
Make of silk or wash goods
such as lawns, dimities, mull
or swiss. The sleeves for
the waist may be made from
any sleeve given. The neck
and down the front may be
finished with lace or fine
pleating.
The skirt is given on pages
106 and 107. Draft by the
waist measure. It consists
of front, two side gores and
back breadth. This makes
a very full skirt, but that is
what the present styles re-
quire. Join the different
parts as indicated, face the
bottom up 13 inches with
hair cloth, cross barred crino-
line or heavy canvas to make
it stand out at the foot. Trim
with braiding to correspond
with the jacket. Regulate
the length by the tape meas-
ure.

Spring 1895 / 103

 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

13° 12%
Seam
ce'
| J |
Se tae

Spa Seam
Space,
34

4m
-—
3
=e

@ Ble | | | | | | I | ne: ©

104 / Spring 1895

 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

2674
26%

5% 4%

SLEEVE LINING

10%

Spring 1895 / 105

 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

a, 354 2%41% 3,
2
84 Space Sdam—>

eam
ns
D
No.

S8/4
Space

ee
anaes
aaa
A

oo ed ee re ria

plete a eet 1g
Ruane iss

eiqnog ing

1/2 Inch Seam

106 / Spring 1895

 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

—
a
Rik ee Aes 2 oo i, m etBeRs COUT mC © = Fo any vip A ee es

ce i, a ee ne ee wmeesg your alt quoi. utor

UMBRELLA SKIRT
UMBRELLA
SKIRT
=
NE,

Spring 1895 / 107

 CHILD'S STREET COSTUME,

SLEEVE)
NO.15-9
|

ly, | |
5--f=sSen |

a
no
or)
AS

Use the scale corresponding

with the bust measure to draft
the waist and jacket.
The waist is given on page
108. It consists of front, back 8 ples
{2
—
and sleeve. Close it in the
-
back, trim with braid, gather 2
—_—_——
am ot.
or pleat the sleeve. No. F7 Al
a
The jacket is given on page Se
Sp.
i}
~~)
10g. It consists of front, back,
side-back, under-arm-gore, col- ey
98, Ulf ee ee 14%
lar and facing, and collar lining, Ese, 14%
and two sleeve portions. Join
the collar to the front accord-
ing to the stars, notches and
rings. Gather or pleat the
sleeve between notches, use the
umbrella skirt given on page
107. Draft by the waist meas- NO.5 V
ure, trim with braiding to cor- COLLAR
respond with the waist.
Regulate the length by the Cut Double
tape measure.

108 / Spring 1895

 CHILD'S STREET COSTUME—Continued.

WVTTOO ONINIT
Cut Double

*ON¢ A
ajquog
3ng
WAIST
LINE

f | | | | | ! |
+

Spring 1895 / 109

 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale correspond-

ing with the bust measure to
draft the entire waist and
sleeves, which consist of
front, back, and side-back
for the lining, and front,
back, collar and three sleeve
portions for the blouse.
Shir on the dotted lines,
or as many times as desir-
able, and tack each shirring
to the lining, allowing it to
puff a little. Silk is very
pretty made up in this way,
or any soft material. The
Z4f INA \ > bottom may be hemmed and
/ Q 4 Brn) hr AY ee worn under the skirt. Close
Lime d y ne AAR down the front invisibly with
Oe DES RES t EN hooks and eyes.
pe : wy ; The sleeves are given on
page 112. Lay pleats, or
gather between notches and
sew to lining. It may be
pleated in various ways,
either double or single box
pleats, or side pleats, meet-
ing in the center.
The cape is given on page
12, is drafted by the bust
measure. Line with silk or
satin. Make of any suitable
material. Regulate the
length to suit. The neck
may be finished in various
ways, either with a stock
collar and rosettes, or pleated
lace with a bow in front, or
a medici collar.
The skirt is given on page
113; is drafted by the waist
measure. Is in three pieces,
front, back, and side-gore.
This is fitted without darts.
Gather the front and side-
gore enough to prevent
drawing up. Gather or pleat
the back breadth. Line
throughout and face up the
bottom with haircloth. Bind
the bottom with velvet.
Trim with velvet or silk, or
any other suitable material.
Regulate the length by
the tape measure.

110 / Spring 1895

 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

18%

FRONT
34
Space
Sea Space
34,
Seam
Double
Cut

19*%
17%

Seam
6

one
tt
8/4

©
=
=
ei
)
a
”
S
2

Spring 1895 / 11
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

ONE-HALF

wag ‘ul S/T

CAPE
OF
a __ --- --~~-~---~-------431

t SSS

@
bal
= @

nin a ge ee of
TAS
MUTTON LEG SLEEVE

NO. 5 R. SLEEVE LINING

ted
tt
©
~

=
i=)
—

J
ag
ian)
=

a
aN
[ten)
mt

aR

212

252

m2 / Spring 1895
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

bole

—----—-—-- ll
ONE HALF
/
] BACK BREADTH

ter Gore
Side
Join
le
" No. 6 P

Cut
Double

Seam
in.

Spring 1895 / 113

 114}
Spx ing I 895
LADIES’
STREET

Ss.Pe
COSTUME.

ae eee
ee AS i eeenae
ep Slay es reo ef a Ae a ate
oe ae ee Go
eeL@so 5 oS 2
e
Ss ro¥
Be
e
9 eg
ee os
eee
—_
ot
Stee
5
‘=
osoc
ee
oO AS a 5) n ms) ESh
eS} Bye acs oO = S aici
OE &
Bey
eeae
Se .
5es A 53 FA oo oS) ny Se a 55% OS ay may
ke ae tee O.
rafeee a
eet eT
Se) ofS)fo) 835 To =an
ES iia)f=
gee
eer eS
Oa) meas!ea -o o ae nO ae hige Pac §:0)
= ita, Se send (ro RC) ve es MO ee er SS) vo a, o ns ae nneste Om OE ~
5° > S= vo oS 5p
o soe Fret eae irom
2) esl ee er Sc
se LS ks oO
i mean oI Oi Py me) aS re)
eoee
ee moet
= A » Bas 6 eee 5 o =F ae SeeB.S°a & 9
oa
teensBe ie
Or! eo pee
Pade 8 Oi be ee
a Sh e/S ee se
pega ge
S
Sa ie mH ee a eeeee
ee Se Spe
Ge SaneOr Ue oO ei) oman Se os Y Oo on sae dae) Coe
gs oe
Ge ewe
ee SS oor
OA . OO
Sel Saleen
osm
ot oo
wo)8 ao
of SO
ot a ele©in ° ia ae
ee Ol yume <2 oe ce n Lom seein.
(oO) + ee OFare)
= a OES
= ao 2 7 o eases
eed eg Se Oates Caen anew iene ier ee Oe Oo
= ee 4
ee ous ee ere n
as Oe
¢
et ie
en S
re ~w SG) ey
Se ie
= gal7 2 6
ae ee ie te Se SO Se eee et ar ee ie Lo eerdg) Spiess
ge wow
ee oo 2s 2 ERB ee eee etyGc) Serra
vo o : a At {
 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

2%

8A

In.
8e

11%

Al

“VAS

----~YOKE___ 1;

g-----+
= 8% Space Seam
= Pe pee ee
3 UNDER ARM
Wak NO.2-9
J
Join Front ——~>5---~

011,

CAPE. RUFFLE

Spring 1895 / 115

 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

Ao9g
BNg
uo
Wy}

*)
our
7

Use the scale corresponding

with the bust measure to draft
the dress, which consists of two
yoke pieces, and front and back
skirt portions and the sleeve.
Gather the skirt and sew to the
yoke. Finish yoke with a ruffle
of embroidery.
The sun bonnet is in five
pieces.
Put two thicknesses of canvas
on the front piece, and stitch
many times so it will retain stiff-
ness when laundered. Put the
different parts together according
to the notches, stars and rings.
Make of any suitable material.

116 / Spring 1895

 CHILD’S COSTUME—Continued.
aTqnog Ing
Ge |
!
sTqnog Ing
|
|
|
ae 3
CENTER |
10% 4"
A ———————— ——- 13% CROWN LINING
|
i
| ONE HALF
/ i ONE HALF OF CROWN | OF FRILL
|
|
|
match
Gather
to |
|
crown
of
center
for
up |
Cue 461% i
|
|
|
|
|
andsew
Crown
Gather
to
|
draw
and
gather \
|
|
I
}
£9 noo 16% 6 7s 12 10 7 y, 18’

18%

<< f]
4 8Iqnog ET
Ye)

CROWN
LINING

ISICAL
OurT ook
194RBD
03
YP
mos

Cut Double >

to pos @ o
Be oo \e RS
Le >
.

GY: 5

No.C1l

1%,
Yn.
Seam

Spring 1895 / 117

 CHILD’S COSTUME.

J 10 NO,
SS10

eee

ee2G
TeesESS
ee

(o>
FRONT
:

See eee=
ee,
L__14¢6%
16% TPR

|
7%
62

3%

2
35
Use the scale corresponding with
the bust measure to draft the entire

waist and sleeves.

This gives the blouse effect. Lay

pleats in front according to the notches.

The 10-J front and back are for the
po
So
under waist or lining.
Gather the sleeve puff and sew to
the sleeve lining on curved line.
Draft the skirt by the waist measure.
or
Lay the pleats according to the
notches, and sew to the waist. Finish

with white braid.

194
18%

Regulate the length by the tape Cut Doub q

measure.

118 / Spring 1895

CHILD’S COSTUME—Continued.
Cut Double VA

gi

10%

17%
© 20'/
re
a
re=
3
H
w
&
27's
oO
3B,q
4
2
<
3 29%
q
°
=
f]
16)
CENTER
FRONT
OF

3
a
ONE
HALF
OF
SKIRT.

46'4

48%

SLEEVE

13 10

Spring 1895 / 119

 LADIES’ TAILOR SUIT.

LADIES’ TAILOR SUIT.

Use the scale corresponding with the

bust measure to draft the entire Waist
and Sleeves.

The Jacket is given on pages 12 and

122; consists of Front, Back, Side-

back, Under-arm Gore, Rolling Col-

lar and two Sleeve portions.

This is drafted in the usual way.
It may be used asa Jacket ora Waist;

if the latter, make a chemisette from

the drafts given on page 122.

We have also given a plain pointed

basque on pages 122 and 123.
Draft by the bust measure. Any
style of decoration may be used, but

stitching and buttons of every de-

scription are preferable.

The Skirt is given on pages 123 and

124. Draft by the waist measure, or
any other skirt given in this issue. If
a wider skirt is desired, add an extra

side gore, lay the Back in pleats ac-

cording to the notches. Regulate the

length by the tape measure.

120 / Winter 1896

 LADIES’ TAILOR SUIT—Continued.

5% pele
2m
Front
f
°

Pace
Se
Center
4g

3%
3% 2% \J2Tnch Sedm__—
a. Sa

5% 1%
i
i i
2% 3%2 2

Bt, 44 COLLAR \\
ts Is \

|
me13
63 :
PB ats
are 1 Bo
8 ie
1

Se
age
y Walst Ling \ 9%
Ue
10 41142
12

18%
19%
—— 4
19%

Winter 1896 / 121

 LADIES’ TAILOR SUITT—Continued.

13% 11

ait
BACK OF
Se CHEMISETTE

22/_ ate Ra SU 8 Double

Out
/ SLEEVE s

FRONT OF |
CHEMISETTE !

—s
eam
NO.3 *

Inch
2
8

__ _|26%
96% 4% 10%
1%

SLEEVE

Sean
P| |
3
3
=
ST
Qh
S

E
i]
\
'

=I 6%
ay
Space
$/4
Seam
=)

|
Walst Line | (Walst Line

122 / Winter 1896

LADIES’ TAILOR SUIT—Continued.

5%

5%

87/4

2In.
Be

__4ln8eam__Join Front

Winter 1896 / 123

 LADIES’ TAILOR SUIT—Continued.

Center of Front Out Double

BACK BREADTH
NOY

ei iy ee Spee ee ae 2 In.Seam
mew. Solu Side Gore — 2 see 8 ee ee

124 / Winter 1896

 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME.

LADIES’
STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale correspond-

ing with the Bust measure
to draft the entire Waist 9

which consists of upper,

under and center Fronts,

Back, Collar ») Cape Vand

three Sleeve portions. Cut

the lining from the Front,

Ws

having one dart close down

CA
PAE:
Lp

the Front with hooks and

eyes. Cut the Center Front

double ’
sew to the lining;
sew the cape to the Upper
Front and fasten securely
to the lining on the right
side and close with hooks

and eyes on the left side.

Trim the Cape, Sleeves and
Skirt with fur. The Sleeves

a re given on Page 127.

G ather the upper portion
between the notches and

sew to the lining. The

Skirt is given on Pages 127

and 128. This is drafted by
the Waist measure; it con-
sists of Front, Back and

two Side Gores. This may

be finished off the same as
the other Skirts we have
described. Trim with fur
or any other suitable trim-
ming. Regulate the length
by the tape measure.

Winter 1896 / 125

 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME-— Continued.

1%

‘ain
2Seana
ais
i

8% ue A ee Ne 4 47%

\ \ ONE HALF OF BACK |

\ |
|
SS SS SSS 19% Hl
al
g |
a!
el
x
|
|

_ (14%
ie ie

; CENTER
77 FRONT

—]17% NO. 6-9 X

Q4'%
24%

126 / Winter 1896

LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

SLEEVE LINING

81 YLT

3YuOS
3GIS
wives your lt we quo1g uloe

Winter 1896 / 127

 LADIES’ STREET COSTUME—Continued.

1/2 Inch Seam ___Join Side Gore

3YO9D
3gdIS
V2 Inch Seam

Center of Front

128 / Winter 1896

LADIES’ COSTUME.

LADIES’ COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with

the bust measure to draft the entire
Waist and Cape.
The Waist consists of two Fronts,
Back, Side-back, Under-arm Gore,
Collar, Full Front and three Sleeve
Portions. This gives the Round
Back and slightly Pointed Front.
Cut the lining only from the draft
) » having two darts. Lay pleats in
SEND the Upper Front according to the
CGN notches; close invisibly with hooks
NOt: add My) and eyes.
we bay
y The Bishop Sleeve, given on page
WY a?
Wy 131, is in three pieces, two Linings
LAN Mi\s
Bay Wiig : anda Puff. Linethe Puff with sea-
grass or fibre chamois; gather the
bottom and sew to the sleeve lining
on the dotted lines to form a cuff.
This is especially suitable for tall
ladies, as it tends to diminish the
height and broaden the figure.
The Cape is given on page132,
and the Rolling Collar on page 131.
This may be made of any material.
If it is to be made of very heavy
cloth, draw a line from the neck, or
figure 185g, down to 44% on bottom
cross-line and cut thisaway. Inter-
line with tarlatan, sea-grass or fibre
chamois. Regulate the length by
the tape measure.
Draft the Under-waist by the
scale corresponding with the bust
measure. It is suitable for an
under-waist or corset-cover. Close
in front with buttons and button-
holes.

Winter 1896 / 129

 LADIES’ COSTUME—Continued.

oe 2M
. Y

101/g<<— - oe aiken 4. ee }13/4 6 3%

| 94 Joy
23/4

5% 5

53/4

ES oe, re eS 71/4 9
g
el
ol
DI
5 |91/2
z|
al
93
ie ou\\—"11}19%

115%
17
17°
SU Sia ee 2 RIS 151/4

US ed eee a a =SN ee 161/4

17
Sess 171/4
171/2

Gore
eRe

Sp.
Seam—
4

|
av

No. 10 F X
ate Cut
Double
—_—”?
%
Space
8

eee

__ _Gather

130 / Winter 1896

 LADIES’ BISHOP SLEEV 1.

val
%/_9[-—

Lt
tT
\er-———
‘\

ab

Se
JiNd

ace
WAGATS

645%

|
ROLLING /

COLLAR
=
N
S =, iSbaw
QD iyLINING
‘3 /
ly

4's 11%
LINING

eh Seam ao

uf SS oes
W211 neh ein ——
COLLAR
=
N9.10 L
x
oo

Winter 1896 / 131

 oe Fae)ae A ae ae aT
wt\d.
muog-ny F/,
18% ae, =
ei
ONE HALF OF CAPE <q
CAPE.

19%|-— —— 14% | 5
X0.2 W 15% meas ce
t 16% aa
17% a
LADIES’

19% 18% =) ee

UNDER WAIST FRO}

ee
2

=
ra <
Front Out Open

/ Winter 1896
132
 MISSEN’ COSTUME.
ron
S

¢
%

V7, of Box Pleat

app

IE
SEE
ZE5
eee Ze
é

ZL
aoor

MISSES’ COSTUME.
Use the scale corresponding with the
bust measure to draft the entire Waist
and Sleeve. Cut the Front lining only
from the draft having one dart. Lay
a box pleat down the center of upper
Front, carry the Sailor Collar down
the Front under the box pleat, finish
with small gold or pearl buttons, close
in the back invisibly. Gather the
Sleeve between notches.
The Skirt is given on pages 134 aud
and 135. Draft by waist measure. Is
in two pieces, Front and Back. ‘There
may be two, three or four pleats for
the Back. Regulate the length by the
tape line.

Tn.Scom__ eae
UNDER ARM |GORE
0.15 -9 |

Winter 1896 / 133

 MISSES’ COSTUME-— Continued.

SLEEVE

Sl

;&
|
|
|
|

|
14 In.Scam

44%
:30

134 / Winter 1896

 MISSES’ COSTU ME—Continued.

CHILD’S COSTUME.

CHILD’S COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the

bust measure to draft the entire Jacket,
which consists of Front, Back, Collar
and three Sleeve Portions.
This is a Box Jacket. Cut the Back
double; the Front is double-breasted;
the Sleeves are in the Bishop style;
gather the puff and sew to the linings on
the dotted line. The lower part is for
the cuff. Use any Child’s Skirt and
Waist. We have omitted them for want
of room.

Winter 1896 / 135

 CHILD’S COSTUME—Continued.

oe eee
| 3
| 1
\
\
! SLEEVE 53
| \
' | LINING
3
Q '
Q] its |
aa
mM
iE :
stig agp
i

VY Watlst Line
\%
8
\
\
ae ae
1474133

pha 7 miei ~ 153

18

Oh Sat =e 193

Vv,2 Inch BK

SLEEVE PUFF

SAILOR COLLAR

=CG}
7)
J
°
a
»
Ss
o

13%
13%

136 / Winter 1896

 CHILD’S LONG CLOAK.

FRONT

%
Space
Seam
= Waist Line
15%
16%

NO.6
Y

CHILD’S LONG CLOAK.

Use the scale corresponding with

the bust measure to draft the entire
garment, which consists of Front,
Back, Side-back, Under-arm Gore,
Collar, Cape and Sleeves.
This has been inserted by special
request. Is suitable for a School
Cloak. Makeof any heavy material.
Trim the Cape with fur or astra-
ace
—-s
Seam
khan. Make it as long as the dress
skirt. Regulate the length by the
8/g
>
===——
Space
tape measure.

Winter 1896 / 137

 CHILD’S LONG CLOAK.

NO.6
XY

CHILD’S
MUTTEN
SLEEVELEG

138 / Winter 1896

 MISSES’ COSTUME.

MISSES’ COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with the bust measure to draft the entire
waist and sleeves, which consists of two Fronts, Back and two Sleeve por-
tions. Turn the upper front down on the dotted line close on the left side;
finish with a rosette or bow of ribbon. Draft the skirt by the waist measure.
Regulate length by the tape measure.

Ns
Link
AN
X NNANY

|
Hi
Nt

ie UPPER FRONT

No. 7A X.

Vg
Inch
Seam

SLEEVE

17%

Winter 1896 / 139

 MISSES’ COSTUME—Continued.

_—_— _—
es
es ee, —_—_
Sa ae eel a ee

SIDE GORE
No.A6

: 4 2 In. Seam
Join Side Gor ae

I
No. AG ONE HALF OF FRONT

Cut Double

2%e
AY,

= Cut Double =
& Ss

10%

ONE HALF OF BACK BREADTH il

174
id No. A6 M4
bs
19 -
A
e

| VY In. Seam

"ACs

140 / Winter 1896

 O9 Authentic -
Turn-of-the-Gentury Fashion Patterns
Kristina Harris
The dressmaker’s patterns for the more than 50 different garments included in this volume first
appeared in the 1890s in issues of the quarterly The Voice of Fashion. Most of the patterns are
for stylish day wear for women, but there are house dresses and nightwear as well, along witha
selection of suits and dresses for young boys and girls and several garments for men.

Reproduced from rare original issues of The Voice of Fashion, these patterns show that
although most ladies’ fashions of the 1890s were designed to conceal the body behind high
necks, long sleeves and full, floor-length skirts, a lively interest in revealing the female figure
persisted. Most styles emphasized a tiny waist, which in turn accented the bosom and rounded
hip line. Elegant hand craftsmanship and the luxuriant draping of rich fabric further enhanced
this statuesque idealization of femininity.

An informative general introduction to dressmaker’s patterns and concise instructions for using
them precede this lively parade of fin-de-siécle fashions. Readers will also find over 575
patterns and illustrations detailing the various garments, with individual instructions for
making them. Costume enthusiasts interested in recreating exact copies of vintage clothing will
find this book an indispensable guide; indeed, anyone interested in the history of fashion and
costume will welcome this fascinating reference to late Victorian dressmaking.

Original Dover (1994) publication. Introduction. Patterns and instructions. Over 575 black-
and-white line illustrations. 144pp. 9 x 12. Paperbound.

ALSO AVAILABLE
AMERICAN Dress PATTERN CaTA.ocs, 1873-1909: Four CoMP_eTE Reprints, Nancy Villa Bryk.
160pp. 8% x 11. 25654-5 Pa. $8.95 }
BuTTERICK’s 1892 METROPOLITAN Fasuions, The Butterick Publishing Co. 160pp. 9 x 12. 27983-9
Pa. $11.95

Free Dover Complete Catalog (59069-0) available upon request.

A DOVER EDITION DESIGNED FOR YEARS OF USE!

We have made every effort to make this the best book possible. Our paper is opaque, with
minimal show-through; it will not discolor or become brittle with age. Pages are bound in
signatures, in the method traditionally used for the best books, and will not drop out. Books
open flat for easy reference. The binding will not crack or split. This is a permanent book.

ISBN O-44b-2835?- -?
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$9-95 INUSA 80486'2